kaypsmith

Carl, you have to keep up! Go back a page, they are still there, don't panic.

In the top of set of numbers you stated that white to red =5, w to b =1, r to b =6, that is good. But later down you stated after you removed all wires and rechecked all which includes cap, w to r = 5, w to b =1, and r to b = 4, 4 is less than 5 that is bad. White being common/neutral, that is ground for testing purposes, so you are checking red to ground and black to ground in this point in the test. Red is start, and black is run according to your schematic. White which is common is ground when the circuit is completed all the way back to the breaker/fuse box. The outside of the encasement/metal is also supposed to be grounded all the way to the ground provided before it enters your coach, as this is the safety feature built into the electrical code. If common breaks down and leaks to the case of a device, it becomes a shock hazard, therefore you should not have continuity to the metal housing. Newer tools that have only two wires to plug in are made of a composite material such as plastic which is dielectric, meaning that it does not carry electricity and can not shock you, which is why the third leg can be eliminated,

Jim you are correct.

Oneway, I'm sorry that I misread your second set of readings. They are still the same on both readings merely stated in a different order which indicates the compressor is bad. Smoke test will still be ok and we can always hope for the best. Note also on your meter, the setting for ohm reading is K ohm, that means that for every 1. that you read is 1000 ohms, this is what was meant in another post that some meters will not read that low. I'm sorry that I didn't notice that and also you reported that all test read continuity? I'm used to reading a much more sophisticated vom.

Yep, with the test results you should be good to go. Hope that all is well and it ends well, if so you will have saved a bundle. Persistency pays! I suspect that has been a beneficial learning curve. And thanks for the Blue angel photos they are great.

All good questions, OD engaged on level or smooth roads or downhill, the rpm's should lower, as that is what OD is designed for, improving mpg. In this condition the motor should be running slower which will improve mpg plus extend engine life. While in OD if the transmission detects a harder pull than should be then it will shift out of OD to the drive setting without it showing on the shift indicator but you will see a sudden jump in rpm, this is to help maintain speed of your vehicle. My personal driving habits is to place in drive position in around town traffic and if I am encountering a very hilly condition. As to the tar/sewer smell, I don't have a clue as to what that may be, hopefully an expert in this field will chime in. By the way, Welcome to the forum.

The compressor should have been read with everything, including the cap out of the equation. With that situation, your second try should be the correct one. Just a little 101 on ohms law, if two resistors are parallel, then the highest number will be reduced by the lowest, this would indicate that there is a breakdown between the start and run winding's and this will blow a cap. If the two are in series, the result will be the sum of the two resistors, meaning that the two resistors are common only to common. Smoke test is certainly in order, just be sure that all wires are in the correct position, even if that means comparing to the second AC. Just be careful working with the capacitors, they will light up your life if you do not discharge them each time they are disconnected. Again good luck with the test.

Mine is 41.5, a little common sense should keep anyone out of trouble. The only restrictions that has kept me out from anywhere that I wanted to go is of course weight and a campground that couldn't accommodate the length, most can. Now just a little humor Ernie, I thought about adding a slide from the roof for fast getaways!

Wish I could be there tomorrow, I love to watch the Blue Angels, have already their show in Pensacola Florida this year.

Beautiful coach, have seen two, now three over the years.

Flat bed would ok, but most of the time the driver of the tow truck will ask about unbolting the drive shaft, or in some cases, just remove the axels from the drive axel. The hubs are on bearings so they will coast just fine. I was typing while Wayne was, that is why the redundancy.

OK, assuming that white is common, white to black, white to red, if ok black to red should be equal to the sum of the first two. Or think in these terms, if white to black = 42, then white to red = 42, then if black to red = 84, then the compressor is probable ok. This is assuming that white is common, and as stated it usually is, but also, remember sometimes manufacturers are strange animals, they may have used black as common. You will need to set your VOM (volt ohm meter) to read ohms (resistance), most meters have several settings, (0-999,1k-2k) and so on, start with the lowest setting, if no reading, move switch to the next highest, until a reading is obtained. Remember the numbers that I used is just an example, if I had schematics/maintenance manual for your unit, those numbers would appear there, but I don't have them at my disposal. And yes, all you have to lose by replacing the cap with the new one, (the one with the black PTC) on it, is the part if it blows again. If it works, will be wonderful. If you do replace it, don't put any part of your body close and have someone else "TRY IT", for safety sake.

That is great news about the generator. The cap in top photo appears to be a hard start cap without PTC, the bottom with PTC. I am guessing, but the tech probably saw that the two was not equal to the highest total ohms read, indicating an open, or break in the winding rather than a short. A short would definately create an arc situation blowing the cap, a no start and repetitive tries to start would probably cause the PTC to burn up eventually. Read as "1= Common to run, 2 = run to start, 3 = start to common. If the resistance of 2 equals the total of the highest ohm reading between the leads the compressor is good", common or neutral should, but not always, be white. And it would double if 1 and three read the same resistance.

Joe, are those 6 or 8 bags?

Wanderlodge, Prevost, Mci, why did they need a slide? Not knocking slides, but with only two people on board! Slides were available then also.

I am terribly sorry that I missed something in my post. OP stated in an earlier thread that he had replaced the capacitor assembly with the complete kit provided to him. The original PTC was fried, therefore it had to be replaced. He installed the new assembly and it fried also. When he called a tech in to replace the replacement, the tech was obviously bright enough to check the resistance of the compressor before proceeding to install a third cap and components. I don't know what his reading was, but I doubt that his VOM was so cheap that it would not read 0 ohms (DEAD SHORT).

Move to Florida for the lowest that I know of. Alabama is where I reside, and if your rig is over ten years old, you would qualify for minimum value, $1000.00. Then you will be OK, tag for class 3 here, about 110.00. But if newer, hold your wallet, I was in the tag office when a gentleman came in with a top of the line Itasca, tag was $3775.00 for one year. We pay ad valorem tax here yearly based on the black book value, another reason that I will not buy a new coach while living here. I agree with Bill, sounds like you have a pretty good deal.

Carl, Hmmmmmm!!!

Will be perfect, actually a little better. Just turn on the front AC and turn on the hair dryer, start with a lower setting then move up through the settings starting with the lowest, let the generator continue to run for the test a couple of minutes, move to the next highest setting for a another couple, and so on, until you reach the highest. Each move up it is not uncommon to hear the generator sound as though it is reving up, it is, that's because it is keeping up with the load. You will trying to find the spot where the generator starts to bog down and start cutting out. If you reach high and no bogging and continues to run fine, the generator should be fine with an AC replacement. One thing that I did not mention, let the AC begin to cool and make sure that the compressor is working before turning on the hair dryer, at this point, you will be depending on the intellitec to do it's job also, after all it is part of the equation as well. Hope this works out well for you.

One will need to know the amp draw of the device in order to know if that unit is compatible or not, that's why I recommend a heater. If your wife has a hair dryer, that can be set to high if it draws enough watts, some of them have the draw marked on them for each setting size. To calculate amperage at 120 volt, simply divide the number of watts by 120, the results is the amp draw. If in a campground, I would bet that a neighbor has one, ask if that person would plug it up for your test, it will not hurt their heater, it just will refuse to glow bright red when the generator starts to bog. Yes you can put several devices together to equal the top number of amps. I used to use 300 watt light bulbs to trouble shoot a circuit in a shorted device, plugged just ahead of the questionable device, it will glow bright, then removing one component of that device at a time until I found the faulty component, at which time the light will glow dim. To answer a question earlier about the tech checking resistance, if he used his test leads correctly on the compressor and found zero resistance, that would clearly indicate a shorted compressor, which means that it would do nothing but trip any breaker or start a fire if not checked by some type short circuit device, which in the case of the air conditioner would be the PTR, or whatever the weakest link may. By the way, I admire your persistence to learn.

Yes you will have to login again, that's where info is stored for tracking your computer, if the info gets corrupted for any reason, it will affect authentication. Maybe a problem with the forum, but this eliminates possibilities with your end.

I stated in the earlier post, do not overload, never over the manf weight limit. Considering that any weight close to the top of any unit does take away from handling as well as the design of the coach, some are boxier than others, aerodynamics also come into play. As I stated, forward of the rear wheels, not necessarily adding to the front wheel weight. If that heavy on the front end, which could be adding to instability, your case may indicate that a little added behind the rear axle may actually help. There was a question on this forum earlier about some type of air deflector, don't remember the name, but I do know of a few that added them, and the claim that they helped. Also adding weight may not be the answer, sometimes just a mere redistribution helps.

The login glitch has happened to me on several occasions also, especially after logging on with a different computer. I had suspected an authentication issue also. Blake, have you cleared cookies lately? That usually has fixed that issue for me in the past.

Thanks for that update. One thing to try to rule out the AC, leave this AC out of the picture and make sure it is the same circuit as the rear AC, plug in a 1500 watt electric heater, turn on full 1500, that's 12.5 amps @ 120 volts, very close to the amp draw of a 13.5 AC at startup. If the genset bogs in this condition, that will indicate that there is still a problem with the generator. But you are still having a condition with the AC apparently, and I will stick with my opinion that if you are handy, a replacement of the AC will be the cheapest route to go for several reasons, one being that the newer units actually cool better and the seer is higher than the older ones, meaning less load on the generator first, and also leaving more energy available for other appliances in your coach. I mentioned in an earlier post about pricing on ebay (rv air conditioners), so you can use it as a guideline to make sure that you are not being ripped off by another technician, and also if you decide to have a tech do the replacement, you can have that person give an estimate just to swap it out. Good luck whichever way you decide to go. By the way, the AC's, when ordered can be shipped to the nearest truck terminal and picked up there, eleminating the need for having to use a home address, just use the park address and your cell #. I misstated that seer is lower, it is actually higher, I edited the post to correct that mistake. The higher the seer, the more efficient the unit is.