kaypsmith

That looks good, and the aux in can be used to add a sat receiver. Also the Bluetooth hookup for the phone can be greatly appreciated.

Bill, met another RV'er in one park that installed the hitch 16 inches off center towards driver side just so he could see his tow in the left mirror. I would not recommend this to anyone, but he swore that he would not have any other way, also he said that it kept the dolly off the edge of the road, asked about traffic on drivers side, his answer was that was their problem.

I also thing that 375 to 400 mile days is way too aggressive plans, it makes for very long tiring days and too short nights. I recommend slowing your plans down a bit unless time constraints dictate otherwise. That does sound like dream vacation and I hope that you can enjoy it. DW and I also like Carl, try to plan 200 to 250 miles a day even if the destination stay has to be shortened. Happy tales and trails, Kay.

I have used a tow dolly for years, I tow a 2016 Ford Escape on it now, 2014 Kia Soul before that. Never had an issue with a tow dolly, can put the toad on including light package at the rear in five minutes, and remove in three. As mentioned on other posts, I do keep my rear camera on for keeping an eye on the toad, but when I tow 4 down, I still use the camera. Know of one person that used to tow a Yugo 4 down before cameras were cheap, when he got to his destination, only the front half was still there.

My wife being within the nursing profession for 40 + years, I have heard of many under thirty that have fallen prey to heart, cancer, and many other debilitating diseases. This being said, for two miserable years, I sold Life, Health, and Fire insurance, I know first hand how hard it is to sell the first two of these to younger people, so making one's self aware of the younger generation's fate when not having a subscription to appropriate insurance makes for an easier sell for FMCA Assist benefits.

You can get yours here http://www.wk2jeeps.com/Misc/Cherokee/KL_TSB/KL_08_022_16.pdf

Herman, the unit has a condensation water catch basin, a hosepipe can be attached periodically or drained into pan and poured out, some units simply drips directly into the exhaust air vent and it leaves that way. I have yet to see a unit that does not require an exhaust because the heat that is dissipated back into the space needing to be cooled would only rewarm the cooled space. Kingfr, hello neighbor, yep only 120 miles to Red Bay for you and me, and there are many rv repair and upgrade facilities around the country that are capable of making this addition. Depending on the type of roof will determine how costly the addition can be. The wiring can be channeled through the ductwork to the unit making that part relatively easy, also put the thermostat for the new unit in a location that needs to be cooled the worst. Or a standalone unit could be added in replacement of a roof fresh air vent, most are 14X14, same size hole, but this will place it outside of the duct work, and wiring to the unit will hard to hide.

Yes a third AC can be added and as Carl said, "not cheap". We do as Carl, block out as sun as possible and we use a high volume squirrel cage fan placed on the floor at the coolest location you can find, then point the output end towards where we will be located at about a 45% angle upwards. Theory is, since cold air falls, the coolest air will be on the floor, and our head is where the coolest air is needed, we move the cooler air back up to that level to get better use of it. Also, if you have room for it, the portable AC's are pretty inexpensive, again only if you have room for it, and a place where the exhaust air can be sent outside, a roof vent will work well for this.

Keon, hope this works out well for you, wish I was in your area during the summer months. We have a similar club here though, most of the time we meet up at Tannehill State Park, about 15 miles from where I live. We have 4 main events a year and then some in between. Here is the url for the Northern chapter of FMCA, you might find some interesting people and reads. http://www.easternarea.net/Northern.html

Two 20 amp 120 volt breakers = 1 20 amp 230 volt, a 20 amp 230 is two 20 amp 120 volt attached together side to side with a bus bar that attaches the two switch handles together, and insures that when attached at the breaker panel that they will be on two spades directly side by side in the breaker box, which insures that the two hots coming away from the panel are out of phase with other making this a split phase 230 volt circuit. So you are not using any more breakers, just tying them together properly. Also if you have twisted the ends of the two separate 12 gauge wires together black to black both ends, white to white both ends and ground to ground both ends, you have made a single 9 gauge three wire circuit, of course 9 gauge is not an available wire size at the store but you now have the equivalent of 9 gauge, you can now use a single 30 amp 120 volt breaker at the breaker panel, of course this practice is not to any electrical code, be it rvia or nema, but in practice will work fine. 20 amp 120 volt 20 amp 240 volt

X3 BillA. Be sure that the helper is sitting in the pilot seat while testing in case it is an eject button, LOL.

Yes, #12 will not support 30 amp load, but you can use a 20 amp 230 breaker, same theory as 50 amp = 100 amps available @ 120 volt twice, 20 amp 230 = 40 amp total @ 120 volt. The #12 wire will overheat before the breaker trips in the event that the power load ever exceeds 20 amps, thereby becoming a fire hazard. The advantage to using the 230 volt breaker does insure that you are truly receiving 230 volts to the inverter as long as the main box is receiving 230 volts, and if one side trips both sides will both become inactive. Also, doesn't matter if you hook only one safety ground to the inverter or use two, I would use both neutrals wired to the same neutral post as you already have it.

Agree Bill. Thoma, how many sets of wires leading away from the converter?

Will the batteries charge with engine running, or with an external battery charger attached?

Bill, yes to your question, if you manage the ac circuit with a transfer switch by bypassing the inverter passthrough, the wiring as it was should plenty adequate. The wire size and amperage being used in the pass through mode is inadequate because not only are using current through the inverter but also more current that is required because of the converter using additional current for charging the batteries, especially while in bulk mode. That is why the factory recommends the 30 amp 230 setup. The #12 wire is adequate for 20 amp breakers up to 100 feet and of course you are less than that. I personally think that current starvation is what was killing the previous inverter after doing much study and your post regarding events leading up to the transfer switch failure. To overcome the delay problem with newer ats, I would suggest that house to inverter wiring should be to the generator side, this way the inverter to appliance will be instantaneous. There are ats's available with no time delay on either side but much more expensive, and you will be able to achieve the same result by wiring as I suggested. Good luck with the project.

Well I can't resist, sorry Brett, JAMES COMEY pardoned it! And now he is history, LOL.

Must not have been in too big a hurry huh Carl.

Well I was young and naïve back then! You can probably understand, again though, how long ago was that, 52 years I think.

I am suggesting that you go to setup different than the two individual circuits, 120 volt on #12 wire with separate breakers. To do this, my suggestion is run a true 230/240 volt circuit from the main breaker panel directly to the inverter, based on your manual, please refer to page 9 of your manual, and if you are you are using the exact same Kiase inverter, on split phase, the manual suggest that a single 230 volt circuit, 30amps. To achieve this one would need to go directly to the main breaker panel and install a 30 amp 230 volt breaker, I did misstate in the previous post, this will need 3 wire with ground #10 wire would be to code. # 10 is actually necessary for a 230 volt 30 amp circuit. Anyway the 230 volt 30 amp circuit has two 30's that are locked together assuring that if one side trips, the other side will be turned off at the same time. Split phase means that the L1 and L2 measured across actually measures 230/240 volts and insures that the two are out of phase with each other and the neutral is used to balance the load one against the other. My theory is that if only one side trips and the other side remains on at the same time, your inverter, since it automatically shunts common/neutral to ground when in the inverter stage may have been the culprit that was causing an issue in the past. The transfer switch if properly wired in the past would have prevented this condition. This is the only reasonable observation why there was no problem before the transfer switch was removed, then suddenly became one. A 3000 watt inverter only produces a total of 25 amps at 120 volts, meaning that there would be a maximum 12.5 to 15 available on L1 and the same on L2, therefore.

My first auto with AC was an Oldsmobile Jetstar 88, the salesman cautioned me not to run on recirculate after initial cooldown, would cause ARTHRITIS.

At least in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, and Tennessee, BIO doesn't seem to be an issue yet. If I go where it is at that station, I will also go elsewhere, my OLD jimmy would probably croak if it saw much of it.

Carl, did not get color selection they are black sun visor/screen's, not awnings. If you need awning replacement material type RV awning fabric in the search box. The url came up fine for me again, you may need to copy and paste the address on the address line, depending on which engine you are using.

I use Pilot/Flying J when I can, because I have a FlyingJ rvplus card, this allows me to put in as much fuel, up to my card limit that I need. Also there is an automatic at the pump 8 cent per gallon diesel discount from the cash price, and I must pay monthly the entire balance (a true charge card), no balance = no interest. Also their app (MyPilot) is set up to notify my smart phone via text of every upcoming stop, closest proximity. By the way same card allows 5 cent discount on every gal. of gasoline and propane.

The only thing that I would change at this point is to rewire from the main breaker with a 30 amp, (2 15 amps tied together) 230/240 volt breaker, 10-3 with ground wire. This is based on everything that you have done, and in following the wiring diagram from your manual.

Agree call Tiffin with your serial # to ask about roof material. I would think that it is fiberglass especially since there is no seams, but a metal detector, not a magnet waved over the roof will also net the answer if aluminum or not.