kaypsmith

I think there is a special prosecutor being hand picked as we speak!

Wow! Must eat lots of the LARGE Limas! Seriously, I was parked nest to a campground manager from Florida at a campground in Tennessee, He had a huge family of girls, girls, and more girls with him on that trip. I had already told him of the importance of only dumping the Black tank as needed, response was with this many girls it was not necessary, two days later, he started the next day and a half of trying to clear the black tank. Needless to say, next day he came over and told me that was his last time of using his old method.

Was this the mileage on the coach, or had the engine already been replaced and this is the mileage on a replaced engine?

That would be a dream vacation for me. I wasted my money on timeshares before motorhoming 30 years ago. With a timeshare you could not have seen that many places, and if it is parked, there is no yearly maintenance CONTRACT to pay.

Yep, when I was building my house 20 + years ago, I introduced the electrical inspector to mine, he was surprised that there was such an animal, and assured me that he would own one before the sun set. Mine is not as sophisticated as yours and I will attach it to a live DC circuit, but not a live AC. The one at Lowes is $40.00 but on ebay have seen them for less than $20.00. Anyone that attempts to do their own wire trouble shooting really needs one and learn how to use it, not hard but a little practice makes one an electricians best friend. Here is the search url on ebay so that you can see the many choices, I use Tripp Lite. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwiring+tone+generator.TRS0&_nkw=wiring+tone+generator&_sacat=0

It is, I use mine on the job about 3 or more times a week. Simply put one lead onto one wire, the other lead onto the other, turn it on and a signal is generated. The other device has a probe that will read that signal and produce a sound, some of them are a pulsing sound some solid, doesn't matter which. anyway, the probe does not have to come in complete contact with the wire meaning you can actually follow the wires through a thin wall, not metal of course, this allows you to determine where the wire is broken if it is. We use them for pulling network wires through an entire building from a home location without labeling the wires, then toning them out to identify each wire when done. The phone company's have been using them for years.

Most likely!

Well also one other thought is more likely a poor connection at the junction in the bathroom since that one works, as said earlier a wire signal probe would be your best friend for testing right now, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Analog-Tone-and-Probe-Meter/50278117. E-mail me if you are not familiar, ebay has them even cheaper if not in too big of a hurry. Very unlikely that the wire is broken, but there are first.

Joe, in most RV's the ceiling is glued to foam which in turn is glued to the plywood backing. A decorative channel would the easiest.

Joe, I don't remember which roof you have, rubber or fiberglass, the rubber ones traditionally used two layers of 3/4 plywood, the wire traces were routed with a wood router on the top side of the bottom layer, wires were laid in then top layer placed over that. Fiberglass was after my time of building. A fox and hound as Rich calls it, will come in handy.

If you were wifi'ing from your toad to your cell phone, the signal that you saw on the phone was from the toad, not the cell service, just like using any hot spot wifi, that signal is from the hotspot, not the internet provider.

YEP Herman, your Samsung is 4 amps, and most Whirlpool's are 6 to 6.5, also both of these amperages are startup amps ie maximum. The Samsung usually peaks at 1.5 during the normal run stage while the whirlpools normally runs very near 4 amps while just normally running. These measurements were from test about a year ago. Newer Whirlpools may be more energy efficient but this industry is usually not too fast changing. 2000 watt inverter is about 18 amps total so your total running load needs to stay below that otherwise the inverter will not enjoy as long lifespan. Most Inverter manufacturers boast that 2000 watts is good for 4000 peak watts, but what they are not boasting is the fact that time is usually less than ten seconds, some of the better brands are good 30 seconds, and the best brands 60 seconds. Also take into consideration that there usually other items that don't use a lot of amps but they do use some.

I am still wondering what the brand name and model number is for the relay to check if it is a double pole, double throw relay. With all the info that you have provided I believe that there are IC's on that module control board that have gone bad. I believe that what is supposed to happen is when the magnet engages and the relay opens that an electronic circuit is supposed to cause a reversal of the current flow, meaning that now you should see the polarity reversed coming out of the relay back to the motor. Not sure this is totally correct without electronic schematic. If you can see the slide as you stated that you can a very simple solution is use a simple momentary normally open DP/DT switch wired in to take care of both in and out functions, only need to make sure that everyone knows to let go when fully extended or retracted. Your reply came while I was typing, so here is my next question, does the black go negative when the magnet is applied? If it does, then the out switch itself is malfunctioning. Just a side note, in a DC circuit there is no common as you do have in an AC circuit.

Is the inner slide within sight of the control switches?

The fact that the voltage is not dropping when the innerslide is all the way in is the key as to why it will not go out without reversing the wiring. This means that either the magnetic switch is not engaging when it returns to home position, or is a bad switch, or the relay contacts are welded so that the voltage does not drop. One or three of the IC's (that's the long black things with multiple legs) in the picture may have been damaged as a result. Again, MAY HAVE BEEN, not necessarily so. This is the assumption that I would be working from to correct the problem.

Ray, please check the whirlpool amp draw, you should find this info just inside the fridge door on a spec decal. If over 6 amps, I would not recomend using the microwave while in the inverter mode with only 2000 watt inverter. It should be fine otherwise. If 4 or less, it should be ok to use both assuming that the microwave is 600 or less and not in convection mode.

IF the inverter outlet has voltage when the inverter is not in the inverter mode, that would be my choice, this way it should automatically switch over for you.

Don't let me confuse the situation, I was only thinking outside the box. If the outer slide is working, then that's that. Only need to concentrate on the inner slide. Rich has very good points.

I believe this was a Friday 16:51 coach.

Is there a 12 volt exterior light already on the outside close to where you want to install the LED light? If so you can use that source instead of using the 120 volt converter.

I suspect that the switch marked SO/1B acts for both SO 1 + 1B thereby when both slides are away from their home position then either slide should be allowed to go out. Notice just above SO 1 out and SO 1B in, there is a notation, JP1 Address = Jumper out, this what apparently allows the SO 1B to function both ways, also I see a 3 amp fuse just below that space where the wires attach. Have you checked that fuse with an ohm meter or tested under load. I suspect that might a small problem there if bad. Also you state that you that you had to reset the limits on the power gear, maybe a little tweaking may still be in order. Also one other question, is the power switches for the inner slide separate from the main slide? Can you also post the name and part # for the relays?

You are correct, there only three magnetic switches that attach to this module. How long have you owned this coach and has it worked correctly before, then just stopped working?

I also wonder if the rears are 235 or 255!

With the magnet off you have voltage means that they are NC. This means of course that they open when magnet is applied making their use a limit switch, when it opens is what tells the relay at the other end to open thus causing the slide to stop at that point. Is there not another magnetic switch somewhere? Since there are two slides, both slides will need two to prevent over extension or contraction.

The above resolved the hot water issue for me with a single handle shower faucet, just added a quick cutoff at the shower head to conserve water. Without that configuration the tankless water heater never worked well.