rlbarkleyii

Regardless of the HP, most MH will not handle more than 10K because of the tongue weight and the stress that puts on the chassis and coach. There devices such as the Hitch Helper and other brands of tow dollys that take the weight off the hitch and place it on a extra set of wheels. However in looking at it, I still had reservation about the braking, Most trailers are electric brakes, don't think that would cut it! I don't know much about them, but there is such a thing as air over hydraulic brakes for large trailers which might work better for you.

We travel from Georgia to New York, New Jersey area sometime during the winter and stay in the MH for periods of several weeks with temps in the low 20"s at times. our MH is very well insulated, so it is comfortable inside. Our water tank is insulated inside a steel container and our black water and grey are similarly the coach. Have not had to do anything about either of them. The water pump and related equipment are in the basement so I run a small ceramic heater in this compartment at night. Hoses to the water spicket freeze so i just fill the tanks and do not leave it out. It is important to keep your water heater on, or if not on, drained and bypassed. The cabin heat must be left on the entire time so as to maintain temps in the living quarters. I know that you may have heard that there is some controversy about running the furnace as you go down the road, we do it all the time. Does not seem to hurt anything. Without it, everything would freeze.

I used a residential fridge back in 2009 while doing gate guard work in Texas and my Norcold died on me. I did not use a inverter because I was plugged in most of the time. However I discovered that a residential fridge will stay cold much longer than a absorption type fridge. When on the go we discovered that just two to three hours a day would keep ice frozen and food cold. Even in Texas heat it did a good job, I think the myth that residential reefers don't hold up was probably put out by Norcold to keep their throw-away product selling. As i am sure you know, a number of quality motor home lines are now offering "Full Electric" coaches. The primary brands used I believe are Maytag and Whirlpool, but don't hold me to it. I did find out the most of the other brands do not specifically warranty their products in a motorhome. Some specify use in a "house" only and have been known to deny warranty coverage on a trailer or motorhome. Check out the "fine print" warranty coverage of your pick before you buy. One more thing, make sure the brand you use has the cooling fins on the back and not in the skin, sides and top. The units with cooling in the sides and top tend to overheat in the typical RV enclosure, they require clearance for air to circulate. To hold door closed I used commercial velcro self adhesive straps that you can get at Wally World for about $16.00, good stuff!

I use Verizons 4G Broadbaand Router with voice MIFI device and have always had great service and speed all over the south and north-east. The device fee's are 30.00+- per month and then your data plan. Verizon charges $30.00 activate their or your device. Since you can attach a land line phone to the device, you can forward your home or business phone to the router on the road. TIP: Don't buy the router from Verizon, on Amazon the new router is $85.00 or $57.00 for refurbished. Verizon charges $280.00 for device. It runs perfectly on less than 75 watts, so i run mine thru a 75watt inverter 24/7.

One of the things we often ignore is that bio-diesel by nature is a strong solvent. That can't be good for the lubricity of fuel and wear and tear on our engines. Also older model diesels where not designed for either bio fuels or ULSD fuels. The major manufacturers may say it is OK for all engines, but I believe they lie. If you notice there are no old trucks on the road anymore, by old i mean 20 years or more. In another life when I started trucking back in 1960's there were Alllis-Chambers and Cat engines that were manufactured in the 50's and still running into the 70"s. Multi million miles was not exceptional. Todays engines don't do the long haul, todays diesels are more likely to suffer catastrophic damage, over the road trucks are not making a million miles plus, and are scrapped rather than rebuilt. That effects us today because we are all driving throw away engines in our late model motor homes. We are now the victims of planned obsolescence. The only thing that saves us is that we don't rack up the miles like over the road equipment.

I park for short term storage at home on level concrete pad with jacks extended on blocks fully lifting the wheels off the ground all the time. I have been doing this for several years with no apparent harm. I did this to keep ants out of my coach a few summers ago when ants were completely out of control here in Georgia. I have been concerned about stress to the air bags, but inspection does not show any problems.

I have a Journey 34' 2002 with HWH levelers and Freightliner Chassis with air ride. I have been lifting the axles for the last year off the ground during short term storage. Anyone have any information as to whether this harms air bags?

Finally put a dab of Goop glue on the four corners of my thinline covers. They seem to stay on now. Had to replace a bulb and I just cut Goop with razor knife and it can of and went on again great. Not too much Goop, just a dab will do!

Could you provide a source for LED conversion of Thinline fixtures?

I have a Winnebago Journey and it has HWH slide/leveler system. My slides are run from the start battery which is not charged by the inverter. HWH says run engine while using slides/levelers. However truth be told, I often run the slides in and out on the battery without the engine. It is however important to only operate the hydraulic pump under load for as short a time as possible and let it cool in between. Running the pump on low voltage causes heat, sustained operation of overheated pump will cause premature failure at best, immediate failure at worst.

I have a Journey 2002 and recently noticed a slight leak in the bedroom slide closet. The outside looks good, have no idea as to where the dampness is coming from. Would love to hear from other MH owners that have cured their leaks and how they did it. And In particular any cures regarding with the Journey.

This is not a tone generator, nor can it be used to track wires in a bundle. It can determine continuity but that is not enough to indentify blind wires in a harness.

It is normal for the pump to continue to run or cycle for a few seconds after the water is turned off while it pressurizes the system. You might want to check the accumulator if you have one, that is the round thing that looks somewhat like a toilet float. The top of the accumulator should have a air fitting, sometimes they have to be recharged by adding air pressure. 50+-psi

Sealed beam 7" , Sylvania Halogen.

I have sealed beams, and currently am using halogen Sylvania premium lamps. Checked the voltage at the lamp plug and it is 12VDC + Question, are the LED lamps brighter than HID's? Is there a conversion kit that takes the place of the sealed lamp for HID and LED?

Size of AC units and generator are both important, but we're both units OEM? If one were added there may not be a starting sensing device and when the second unit starts to run it will stall the generator if both start together.

My Journey 2002 has single headlights and is not bright as I would like it to be. Would like to hear from others what I can do to convert or change out for brighter light system. Names of particular products and/or conversions would be helpful.

My Freightliner Chassis XC under Journey always discharges air when motor is off and the chassis is no longer in travel mode. ( air bags deflated) It takes several hours to bleed down. Are you talking about a slow bleed down? Do you have a air drier? Many air driers are designed to blow off moisture when engine is not running to get water out of system. Does you compressor cycle when running? Does your service tank stay at 120 psi with motor on, does it recover quickly after brake application. Most of us would need more info to help you!

I doubt CW will stand behind their error, their service history on this forum will bear that out. If direct contact with the CEO does not work, I would sue them in the county court where the unit was installed. In most places you will be able to initiate suit without a attorney, usually amounts under $1500. Most corporations will settle before court because the amount in question is less than they would pay for a attorney to represent them in court. Good Luck!

There is a quite creditable lubricity test out there that I read that indicates that Marvel Oil reduces the fuel lubricity because of solvents. If I can find the test results again i will post it! The lubricity study i was referring to was published by "The Diesel Place", and is found here> http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf. Please note many of the products advertised to increase lubricity actually effect the lubricity negatively, while Tech brand 2 cycle oil, not intended for that purpose is fairly effective both cost and improvement in lubricity. If the above link fails in the future, i would be happy to send members a pdf of the detailed report.

My ONAN 6500 would start and then shortly shut down when the oil level is low. Restoring the proper oil level cured the problem. THANKS TO ALL FOR THEIR INPUT!

Has anyone found a solution to the tendancy for Thinline covers to fall off. No matter how carefully i put the covers on, making sure the ends are in the track, they shortly fall off. I have had this same problem with every unit i have owned for two decades at least.

Has anybody found a way to keep the plastic covers on Thinlite Flueresent fixtures, mine keep falling off? Am I the only one with this problem.

Been with USAA more than forty years, Great outfit, however since they no longer insure motor homes, I use another company's roadside assistance. Ditto on Bob's comment, they do fine on cars!

Had Camping Worls in Byron GA remove old awning and install a new Weather Pro 18' power awning with metal weather shield. Did a good job, best price installed in the area. Completed job in three hours, cost $1800.00 including tax, and labor