rlbarkleyii

Since we are on the topic of wet wheel bearings, what is the change interval for wet bearings? When I used to run heavy trucks, we never serviced wet bearings unless they leaked or became contaminated with water. When water got inside they turned milky colors. Usually when bearings were inspected 80-100k miles, generally all bearings, races, and seals are replaced, hand packed and filled with synthetic lube.

Look for overpasses if you are on the road, some will allow you to pull to the side and be off the road. Overpasses save the day particularly in hail storms. tornados and hurricanes.

I made pads from pressure treated plywood, 5/8 thickness, cut into 12x12 squares (CDX Exterior Grade will work as well). I glued each piece together with liquid nail, then screwed them together with drywall screws. I used a router to cut two channels on the center piece about 4" inches long, separated by four inches to embed a piece of heavy nylon rope to be used as a handle. glued together 5 pieces. Painted same black. Does not bend or flex once cured. Does a great job. Cost of project less than $28.00. You will have enough material to make at least 5-6 units. Home Depot will cut them for you if you ask. (be persistent, some clerks may not want to do it- it is store policy to custom cut)

Check the R V junk yards and buy the HWH system that should have been on that coach. I can't believe it came from the factory without one? The system you need is fairly simple and on the GMC chassis it was a bolt on. A manual crank device would not be practical due to the weight.

On the toilet seal, they all seem to leak down in a relatively short time. Make sure that your vent is not blocked, that will reduce the negative pressure against the seal and help keep the odor out of the coach. I do not use peroxide, it would probably work but it is a bit corrosive and destroys rubber (water pump) as well as being poisonous in other than the smallest dose. Your biggest job is to first get all the antifreeze out. There are three floor valves on the 97 HR, if i remember two are in the hall closet floor, and the third tank drain is in the drivers side night stand floor behind the pump. Make sure you drain the hot water heater, remove the outside drain plug and drain. If your water is also heated by engine exhaust, you must drain that as well. Fill and drain at least twice. the third time add one cup of household bleach w/o fragrance, with the system sealed up, valves closed. Fill tank, and run a gallon or so thru each faucet. You must be open the furthest hot & cold water tap from pump and ensure the water heater tank is filled and bled of air. I have done this dozens of times with RV antifreeze and never had odors after flushing. Often you may see a little bubbling (foam) in the water expelled thru aerators like the kitchen sink, this is normal and will go away in a day or two. We keep flushing when we can until no bubbles are in the water, we don't drink or cook with it until they are gone. Because of the large quantity of antifreeze that must be put in to fill lines to prevent freezing, i use another approach. I bought a device that screws into by city water fill and the other end is attached to a air compressor. Be sure to reduce PSI on the compressor to not more than fifty pounds. Make sure that water heater is in bypass mode. Open the faucets one at a time at the furthest point from the fill and apply air pressure. The air will blow all the water out of the system. When all water seems to be removed, then open the remainder of the faucets one at a time and drain. Last open the floor drains and close when drained. Open the tank drain and close when drained. Add one gallon of Rv antifreeze to tank and pump only a few seconds until antifreeze is in pump and toilet. Take second gallon and pour a cup down every drain, don't forget shower.

I had a Remco driveshaft disconnect put on my 2012 Nissan Exterra auto 4X4 in the Atlanta area. The company I went to was referred to me by Remco and they have been doing them for years. Fast in and out reasonable price. They are a driveshaft specialist, cut, balance, weld as necessary to install disconnect. Great people. Drive Shaft Services, 1395 Cobb Pkwy N Suite L, Marietta GA 30062, 707-427-4898

For reasons unknown to me Winnibago says you can not use a equalizer hitch of the Freightliner (Journey 34') chassis. I would like to use a equalizer to reduce tongue weight of trailer I want to pull. Anyone have any experience with Equilizer hitches on Journey or similar Freightliner chasis with air ride ect.

I have a Winny Journey with a Cummins ISB rated at 275hp, Allison 2000 tranny, 34ft long GVWR 24350, loaded weight more or less 21620#. Winny says 5000# trailer weight with 500 tongue weight OK. I need to tow 6000# with 1700# tongue weight. Anyone have any suggestions as to how I can do it? Anyone else with similar combination pulling loaded trailers? Please do not regurgitate the party line about safety and such, I need to know if anyone out there is "pushing it" and how.

Do not put caustics such as draino, bleach, ect in the tank, it will corrode the valve and other metal hardware in the tank. It might even generate enough heat to damage the tank. Rid-x will do nothing to clean your tank. Rid-X is enzymes to work in septic tank, your holding tank is not a septic tank and does not utilize enzymes. What you need is a solvent, water based, that will dissolve clud. TSP, Tri-sodium-phospate is my favorite for cleaning. You can get it in most hardware stores, it is a granular powder, a super strong detergent. It should not hurt your tank or valves. Fill the tank with water and add TSP and/or liquid laundry soap, if you can, drive around for a few minutes to shake it up. Let it set for 24 hours or so and dump. Rinse again and repeat if necessary. TSP makes water super wet and gets everywhere, should clear out your nozzles as well. Works for me.

I have a 02 Journey 32' and since I purchased the unit about a year ago, the city pressure and volume has fallen of considerably. The pumped water from the tank is adequate and has remained the same. The city water is actually less pressure than the pump. Meter says the city water is sixty pounds. Comes out under good pressure for a few seconds then reduces to a dribble. Is there a regulator somewhere on the city line? Or a screen or filter that is clogged up? Anyone found the cause of this problem.

Contact Monarco Corporate Customer Care and ask them who the provider of the part was and order direct. Since Monarco has changed hands so many time in the last few years, you may find there are no corporate parts history available for your year model.

I have a Wilson Dual Band Amplifier that I have been thinking about mounting in my Winny Journey with a ground plain antenna. My concern is that the roof of the Winny is fiberglass and the instructions say the antenna should be as far away from the inside antenna as possible. Anyone have these types of amps mounted on non-metal roof above the cab and get it to work without oscillation? I don't want to run cable to back end of unit and mount antenna there. When i was testing the unit, i could not see any real difference, the signal strength did not show improvement in signal.

I tow 4 wheels down a Xterra 2012, FWD, AUTO behind my MH. The XTERRA and the FRONTIER share the same chassis. I can assure you that I haul my Xterra down the road at speeds up to 75 miles and hour with no ill effects. I test (Oil Analysis) the tranny fluid every 10K to detect abnormal wear, so far so good. I had installed a REMCO driveshaft disconnect. I have towed this vehicle more than 10K miles, with no problems. NOTE: Due to the specific driveshaft configuration of late model Xterra's, have the work done by adrive shaft specialist convenient to your location. Call REMC0 855-447-3626 . They can make a recommendation. DO NOT use RV dealers or Camping World, because shaft must be cut, welded, balanced on a high speed lath. Most RV dealerships do not have the expertise nor equipment for the job. My work was done by Driveshaft Services Co., Marietta GA. 770-427-4898. Another option is Drive Shaft King, Dallas TX, 800-442-6329 2 JAN 2015, I have now towed my Xterra more than fifteen thousand miles. Analysis of trans, transfer and rear all indicate normal wear. No issues ! I am not connected in any way to businesses recommended.

I tow 4 wheels down a Xterra 2012, FWD, AUTO behind my MH. I had installed a REMCO driveshaft disconnect. I have towed this vehicle more than 10K miles, with no problems. NOTE: Due to the specific driveshaft configuration of late model Xterra's, have the work done by a drive shaft specialist convenient to your location. Call REMC0 855-447-3626 . They can make a recommendation. DO NOT use RV dealers or Camping World, because shaft must be cut, welded, balanced on a high speed lath. Most RV dealerships do not have the expertise nor equipment for the job. My work was done by Driveshaft Services Co., Marietta GA. 770-427-4898. Another option is Drive Shaft King, Dallas TX, 800-442-6329 I am not connected in any way to businesses recommended.

Purchased a 2002 Journey APR 2013 from Day Brothers in Corbin KY with ACC Extended Warrranty. Thirty days later the hydraulic pump that operates slides and levelers went out. Took it to Middle Georgia RV in Byron GA and got it fixed. The service manager called ACC and got the necessary authorization and commenced to order parts from HWH. When the parts arrived two weeks later they repaired unit. When they submitted invoices to ACC they refused to pay, saying that the work was not covered under the Platinum plan. They had previously approved the repair. Middle Georgia worked with me and I paid the bill myself to get them off the hook. I called Day Brothers and they contacted ACC and tried to get them to make good. ACC refused. I notified Day Brothers and ACC that I was canceling the warranty contract following the required process. Several weeks went by, no refund from ACC. I notified Day Brothers that I had not received my refund, five days later I received my refund from Day Brothers RV on their corporate check. I salute Day Brothers for trying to make good the debt owed to me by ACC in a attempt to minimize the loss of a customer. Avoid doing business with ACC, they are a rip-off.

If the hydraulics is HWH, their site <http://www.hwhcorp.com/contactus3.html> is very helpful, lots of schematics, parts, and other help. However they are impossible to reach on phone. Phone: (563)724-3396 or (800)321-3494 Fax: (563)724-3408

Thanks All : I was able to find and repair the coach with the able help and assistance of Freightliner Customer Assistance 24/7 hotline. 800-385-4357 After I described the condition, they steered me step by step to the 135 amp circuit breaker found behind the drivers rear axle wheel. The bracket with the circuit breaker it is mounted on is attached to the frame below the rail about even with the Allison pan. There are two heavy red cables one from the battery and the other to the engine and other components. Not to be confused with a second set of circuit breaker and relays on the passenger side which control the engine start heater. I tested the driver side breaker with a auto electric tester and found that both were hot, indicating the the breaker was OK, but in the process the connection arched, When I touched the nut, "low and behold", it turned in my hand and arched again. It was just loose causing a intermittent situation. I cleaned the breaker lug, the cable ends and a single wire that apparently operates a relay in the dash area, put it all back together. Unit started right up and I am back on the road again. A important thing for Journey owners, the yellow wire attached to one terminal of the 135 amp breaker operates a relay that powers all electronics up in the front end. Due to the size of it, I am sure it operates a relay to transfer power to the front circuit board. Any time there is a total loss of power to every thing on the chassis, the 135 breaker, the yellow wire and the relay it operates are probably the culprit. This relay on the Journey may be in the front fuse compartment. (Not verified) Thanks Again!!!

Thanks to all who replied. Repair completed genset now operating ! LESSON LEARNED: Engine would not start because hose from bottom of carburetor to crankcase behine the drain valve had deteriorated due to the use of a non-approved type rubber hose which disintegrated . I must have touched it when changing the oil, and it crumpled without my knowledge. Replaced the hose and it now runs great. Cummins Parts # Hose. 503-2143-01 Clamps. 503-1951-20 Do not use other than Cummins OEM parts for this repair. Approximate cost of parts $40.00 including shipping.

Hi, Folks. I am stuck here in the Easton MD area. My Journey 2002, Freightliner CCC, *** ISB 8.3, Allison 2000, pulled up to a stop light and without warning stalled, dead. The engine stopped like the key was turned off. No dash lights, no head lights, nothing that I can find on the chassis has power. Tried to switch my house batteries over to start engine, no luck, not even a light on the dash. Checked the engine and house batteries and they both read more than 12.6 volts. Checked that battery bay for loose battery cables as best I could in the middle of the road, nothing seemed loose. Checked the automotive breakers in the front cowl quickly while dodging cars and did not see any of them popped. Police towed me out of the road to a near by rest stop. This unit never done this before, no previous electrical problems? If anyone has any ideas as to where to start to fix this it would be greatly appreciated.

Please tell me where you found the ignition relay box on the Freightliner CCC, I am broke down and get not power to the chassis. My batterys are fully charged and reading 12.9+ volts. I feel it must be a relay or circuit breaker in the ignition circuit.

Hi Tom; Welcome to the Forum. Tom i currently subscribe to oil analysis for engine, tranny, genset and rears on my Journey ISC 8.3 diesel pusher. It is equipt with a Allison 2xxx 5 speed transmission. I have had this unit only six months and run about 10K miles and have had one sample processed on the tranny. Original fluid is supposed to be a TES 295 product, but I can't be sure, nor do I know anything about units history. Unit has a total of 72000 miles at present. All was within normal limits except lead which was slightly abnormal. normal was <50, my reading was 58. Plan on shortening the next sample interval, and re-test. Analysis company indicated lead may come from clutches. I do get a rougher shift from 3rd to 4th gear, otherwise runs fine. Anything you could tell me about how to proceed would be appreciated. Should I be worried about this sample? Also, my Allison has no drain plug, I took the sample from the center of the filter when i replaced it, there must be a better way. I am concerned that the sample may have been contaminated by the collection method.

Just got the results of oil analysis on Allison 2000 tranny oil. All was within normal limits except lead which was slightly abnormal. normal was <50, my reading was 58. This unit is new to me and this is the first sample for me after aprox 10K miles. Plan on shortening the next sample interval, and re-test. Analysis company indicated lead may come from clutches. Anyone experianced this type of abnormalty?

Oil analysis is similar to the full panel of blood test your doctor gives you. Depending on the lab used, standard analysis looks at some 25-35 indicators of your engine, transmission or rear ends health. Each element tells the lab something about your engine. The lab develops a profile for each engine model at particular mileage or hours of it's life cycle from break-in to failure. In most cases these profiles are adjusted as well by findings in the field, such a early failure of particular components. So when you send in a sample that contains a abnormal amount of lead for instance , that would be a example of bearing failure, Abnormal silicone (dirt) would be a indication that there is a leak in your intake air system and so on. An engine with abnormalities usually will have more than one abnormal indicator at a time. By comparing the amount of particular element(s) found and comparing the type and quantity of element to your particular type engine profile they can predict where your engine is in it's life cycle. Most engine failure can be predicted quite accurately over the course of multiple samples. Most of us would rather do planed maintenance at home, than do unexpected maintenance on the road. The cost of these samples generally cost from $12.00-35.00 depending on who you get them from and who takes the actual sample. Oil analysis is the most inexpensive form of break down insurance available for engines (gas or diesel), transmissions, and rear differentials. I use Wear Check USA ($12) you can find them here: http://www.oilanalysis.net I am not employed by or have any affiliation with Wear Check USA. Just a satisfied 35 yr customer.

Thank you for your reply. I am aware of the oil shutdown sysytem. I had the oil level initially filled to the full level, and when it wouldn't start i wondered if i had overfilled it and removed some of the oil to about a little below half full. Tried several more times, no go!