abyrd

Rich, I just looked at my schematic for my 04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor and I could only locate one Allison transmission fuse and it is located in battery compartment on the bulkhead immediately above the chassis batteries,it's a 15 A fuse. My schematics indicate they are apply to a Cheetah also, not sure if it applies to you model year. There are also two IGINITION LOCK-OUT relays located in electrical compartment they are identified as RELAY R1 & R2. Might pay to checked these relays. Hope this will help you in trouble shooting you problem. I am no expert on MH wiring, but I have been able avoid paying anyone in keeping my rigs on the road. During my 40 plus years career in hydroelectric power generation I have become proficient in trouble shooting electrical problems. Jim

The AUTO Park System depends on a self-contained hydraulic system to keep the drive shaft drum brake released. The system includes several components including: 12 electric motor, pump, reservoir, pressure switches, hydraulic cylinder, stored energy spring and associated linkages. When the Transmission is in the PARK position a signal is given to the hydraulic unit to relieve the hydraulic pressure, which allows stored energy spring to engage drive shaft drum brake. The PEDAL operated EMERGENCY BRAKE overrides the hydraulic bower unit and sets the drum brake shoes in the engaged position and will maintain this position until released by the driver. I agree with the previous post that any mechanic worth his salt should be able to determine if problem is in the hydraulic unit or just a damaged or misadjusted brake shoe. The drive shaft drum brake unit on my previous owned RV had a old fashion style brake shoes, the pads were riveted to the brake shoe. Jim

I purchased a 99 Cruse Master and the parking brake didn't work properly on the test drive, The dealer agreed to fix it before I took delivery (dealer was also the local Chev dealer) . After several attempts and three round trips of 120 miles I decided to investigate and make my own repairs. Found the short actuator cable (it's a steel cable in a housing approx. 14" long with yoke on one end) was not moving freely. I disconnected the actuator and lubricated with WD40 and worked it until it moved freely, reinstalled and adjusted brake. I owned the RV for at least 10 years after my repairs and never had another problem. I purchase a replacement cable, but never installed it, I believe I still have the new cable if I can find it. Jim

I just completed the conversion from florescent to LED, and removed the florescent tubes, holders and printed circuit board from the fixture and purchased the 2 rolls of the LED light and connectors from Amazon. Spent $30 to convert 10 fixtures. There is a tread on the forum with all of the information you need to make the conversion. Jim

Never seen halogen lights in a RV, all halogen light that I have seen run really to HOT for surface mount to the ceiling. Jim

I have owner 3 Class A motorhomes with the P30 Chassis and 454 engine. I will attempt to provide a brief explanation on the operation of the Parking Brake and the Transmission Park Position. Both of these functions depend on single drum brake positioned one the drive shaft immediately behind the transmission. The brake is released when the transmission in any position other than PARK unless the PARKING BRAKE is engaged. The transmission PARK function is controlled by a self-contained hydraulic system, when in a position other than PARK the electric motor run drives a small hydraulic pump which produces pressure to a hydraulic cylinder to release the drum brake. When hydraulic pressure the drum brake is set the stores energy of large spring. The foot petal overrides the hydraulic system and holds the drum brake set. My experience is that the brake shoes will not tolerates overheating without damage. The Transmission PARK POSITION does not have a pawl that engages in the park position. Jim

I would enlarge the existing hole and install a larger marine type deck plate that will allow you to secure the compartment when the hose removed. Sever types of deck plates are available in round and square configurations. Jim

I would check to make sure there is no water in the bottom of the reservoir. I'm thinking that moisture may be present, which caused rust to develop and eventually a hole. Jim

I have used DEVCON products to make permanent repairs in oil reservoirs in industrial applications with good results. The key for success proper preparation. If the leak is on a flat surface you can use a sheet metal screw with a fiber washer to seal the hole. Jim

IT's pretty common to find that the propane valve solenoid will by pass you main switch to allow you refrigerator to operate on propane. JIm

I have been using the NSA surge brake for approximately four years. I tow a Dodge Dakota PU (4200 lbs) with my Holiday Rambler 40' DP and have been happy with the performance. When traveling down a steep grade the brakes will activate and release frequently, I was concerned that the toad brakes would overheat, but I have checked them several times after going down these grades and the brakes have been warm but no signs of extreme over heating. I recently inspected the toad brakes (15k miles of towing) and found to be in good condition. I did have the hydraulic cylinder seal develop a small leak after a year of service, NSA replaced, no questions asked. Jim

Without having a wiring diagram it is difficult to trouble shoot. I found on my 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor that they uses outlets that where the wires just pushed in the back of the outlets and overtime some of the connections failed. You may find a high resistance connection in one of the outlets closest to the circuit breaker causing all outlets down stream to fail. You might want to invest in one of the wire testers that imposes a signal on a wire and you can chase the circuit unit you no longer detect the signal. You can purchase them from Home Depot or Lowes, not too expensive. Jim

Please clarify if have power when on the generator but not when connected to shore power of if you have no power at all on the affected circuits. Jim

If you have a 50 amp power cord, It sounds like you have lost one of the hot legs. I would disconnect your power cord and check the voltage at your power source. Jim

I carry a 50' 30 amp extension cord and only use it in emergencies when I need to charge my coach batteries. In five years have only use it when parking at family member homes.

I'm on the fifth kit that has been replaced under the recall. Each time that it failed Norcold referred me to a different dealer for repairs. When the third circuit board failed Norcold advised me that the failure was caused by my inverter/charger imposing an AC wave form on the DC voltage. Since I had access to an oscilloscope I checked the DC voltage wave form and found no traces of an AC sine wave. I send a picture of the DC wave form to Norcold and they gave me the name of another dealer and the circuit board was replaced. Worked fine for about a year and failed again, By this time I had relocated and took it to the nearest authorized dealer and he replaced the complete unit including the thermocouple, knock on wood it is still working. It is real easy to by pass, just remove the + 12 lead from the recall circuit board and connect directly to the power pack located on the rear of the refrigerator. None of the failed boards were resettable with a magnet. Jim

Gland you found the problem and that the fix was simple. One think that my fathers passed on to be was is you have a problem, go back and look at the last thing that you did before the problem surfaces. It's amazing how many time he been correct. Jim

I finally got around to changing the belt, I removed the top cover, driver side and rear cover to access the belt. Instead of stretching the belt to remove and install, I removed the pulley from the hub of the water pump. Thank everyone for the encouragement to self perform. Jim

I just installed a Smart Battery Isolator (Cole Hersee) to replace my boost relay. It automatically isolates the coach and chassis batteries when both batteries are below 12.7 volts for 1 minutes and it automatically closed if either battery bank reaches 13.2 volts for 2 minutes. It has an override feature (boost) that allows you parallel the two battery in an emergency and it also has a lead for a indicator lamp to let you know when the isolator contacts are closed. I purchased mine on Amazon.com for just over $100, 5 minute job to replace the old relay. Jim

You might want to chase the wiring to make sure that the power source for the boost relay feeds from the coach battery bank not the chassis battery.. Jim

My next step would be to remove all of the fuses and with your voltmeter leads from ground to the load side of the circuit in question, now start installing the fuses and read and record the voltage after installing each fuse. If you find that the voltage only occur when one fuse is installed then you can start troubleshooting that circuit. If the voltage value increase with the installation of each additional fuse, the trouble shooting will be more difficult. If this is the case, I would clean the fuse block with an electrical cleaning solvent and dry toughly and then retest. Good luck with your endeavor. Jim

There should be no voltage on the load side of the fuse holder with the fuse removed. Do you have the leads on your volt meter with one lead to ground and the other on the fuse holder? Jim

Looking at the picture that you provided, it look like there are several plug in relays on the board. I would check each relay to determine that the relay coils are good and also make sure that check the relay contact resistance. I assume you have already checked all of the fuses. Replacement relay should be available at most automotive parts stores. Jim

Anyone have any tips on changing the V belt. It is my understanding that it only drives the water pump. My motorhome is a Holiday rambler Endeavor with generator in front on a roll out. Generator hours 1061, think it's about time for belt replacement. Thanks for any input. Jim