huffypuff

Hindsight is always 20 20 and quite a few people must of been under there and saw it but thought nothing about it in the last 45 years. I know many places had service my coach and never noticed the positive cable rubbing the back wall when the battery tray is shoved in. Yes I put a piece of heater hose around that cable. I prevented one problem but as luck is for me will have another problem will pop up without leaving my driveway.

Are you on shore power? Does it do the same running the generator?

The intellitec load management may shut a few items down if it sense less than 50 amp input power. I seen it in action when running a/c and running microwave plugged into 30 amps. It uses relays in the main 120 volt circuit box.

Your bus is a 1974 and 45 years old so I think it's out of warranty and the factory would consider it normal wear and tear for two items that happens to touch. Sorry to hear about your breakdown. I came close to same with a sudden fuel leak about 5 year ago. The high pressure line on engine was recalled and not performed.

I did and all cells came up and reinstalled them and had 13.2 volts all together at 98 percent. Plugged back into shore power and as soon as the charger kicks on, DC overload. The FET has got to be bad and just that cost more the haft the cost of the unit. No sense putting that much funds into a 13 year old unit only to have something else go wrong. I order a replacement unit from iMarine USA. Hopefully it won't take too long to get it.

I just got a call this morning and they claim that all batteries came up to full charge. I will pick them up later today and hook them up and see if the results are the same.

Charging all day at the store and still not charged, 1.2 reading now. I think theses batteries are ruin from going dead thanks to the failed charger.

If you are at a show and have the monitor or one sensor with you they will supply you with free replacement batteries.

UPDATE: Got a call from Batteries + Bulbs and they started the charging process this morning and expect to call me later today with the result. He also told me that the batteries were pretty much bulletproof and never had a bad one go out or come in.

I charged the batteries for 2 days slowly and had 12.5 volts before plugging shore power back in and resetting the unit. Still got DC overload right away so I remove the batteries and took them back to Batteries + Bulbs as the electrolytes tested only 1.1. They are required to fully charge and test the batteries before replacing or returning them too me. The coach sits in my driveway on a rv pad and is plugged in to shore power and I haven't stepped inside for a month. My DW was inside three week ago and saw the red light on the panel but forgot to tell me. Since then the batteries was run down completely because the charger failed. I know the charger is sensitive as I had to replace the temperature probe after I returned this winter. That issue was solved.

Magnum Energy ME2012

With the problem I'm having looks like the control board or the fet or both is bad. I can get a new one shipped to me for less than what it would cost to replace those parts. Don't make sense on 13 years old unit.

Seems like the charger on the inverter took a crap. I went into the coach on Sunday and saw a red light on the remote panel and a fault readout of DC overload. I also seen the voltage of the batteries of only 2 volts. I slowly charge the batteries with a portable charger over a days and didn't do much so I brought the 80 amp shop charger put on overnight. I charge them at 40 amps and overnight a 10 amps but still less than 90% charged. I tried the inverter charger and as soons as the charger kicks on I get the DC overload fault. I check the electrolytes in each cell of the batteries is only 1.1. Since I only brought the batteries last December I took them back to Batteries + Bulbs for them to evaluate. The check in voltage was 6.25 each. They going to run them through a series of test after charging overnight and call me tomorrow. Otherwise looks like I will be looking for a new inverter charger as the DC overload fault appears to be a fatal FET board.

Awhile back I had a bad parking brake release valve.

🤯

My manual states to never leave any of the valves open.

I will call in the morning if no answer to already sent email. If 8 am here, will be 11 am there.

Thanks for reminding me to renew. The credit card on file was expired and I couldn't delete it. I tried adding the new card and the bottom line ask for company name and it added to the non business card. I wanted to go back to edit it and or delete both and start over and no dice. They need credit card management on the membership site.

You can if you want to use 120v but the element can burns out with a bang and put a hole in the burner then trip the breaker because of the short. At that point the propane can turn on and set the leaking gasses on fire. I feel more safe using propane. It's not just Norcold that can do this.

The OP mechanic told him wrong to run on A/C only. Having to run your generator all the time while driving has to be more expensive than propane. I disconnect 120v power to make the 12v board to think no shore power so it switches to propane. Otherwise when on 120v If the fridge can overheats and crack the boiler tubes, it will leak and can switch over to propane automatically lighting up the leaking gas. The ARP unit is a controller and turns off if the burner temperature gets too high. Much lower than the recall unit. If the burner temperature gets to high the fridge unit will be overloaded and not cool well. By keeping the burner temperature at a good operating temperature the unit it works better. So the ARP unit shuts off at high temperature to allow gas to return to the burner. Then it turns the unit back on to keep the gases circulating. Running too hot cause it not to cool good. ARP also sell fans for inside and outside the fridge to make it perform better and works with their controller. The recall box is junk. Our fridge works fine on the road and one time we had both freezer on top packed solid with fish from Alaska and all was still frozen solid when we got home a week later. This was driving in hot weather.

Yes this OP turned into bash Norcold and sell their favorite fridge. I met the maker of the ARP unit and his wife at Quartzsite and was explained the working of an RV fridge. The 120 v elements can cause an overheat and crack the burner tube. I installed the ARP unit about 4 years ago and disconnect the 120 v power. Don't have any problem with temperature in fridge or freezer. It's on propane all the time when using the rv and I drive with it on with no problem.

Not necessary true as this is the end of the bank. Either way works fine. Or you can hook the positive to the other battery, the other end of the banks.

I was wondering why my coach had so many skylights and what to do if one gets broken. Thanks

If batteries not charging up like it should, make sure your temperature sensor is good. I had a bad one and the charger cut back cause a shorted temperature sensor had the charger thinking the batteries were overheated.