huffypuff

In mine it's on the back wall in the battery compartment. It's actually a large continuous duty solenoid.

The front end loader driver is responsible to get it replaced for you.

Thanks for the replies. I called tech support today and we ran some test over the phone. During one test when the module timed off and the generator failed to stop the tech had me jump terminal 6 & 7 and the generator shut off right away. He determining that number 2 relay in the module is not working and I need to replace that new module. I filled a RMA form out and email it back to them. I hope this fixes it as it is frustrating to have something new fail to work. I hope I can get this feature to work like it should as it will run the generator when it really needs to, not when I think it need to. May save some diesel fuel in the long run.

The wiring for the generator switches is three wires with a added wire for hour meter or light. The three wires are common ground, start and stop. The two switches inside works okay and you can start and stop the generator by removing the three wires in the inverter compartment by touching together the start or stop wire to common ground. That tested good before installing the module and well as the module ground, 12 volts and hour meter 12 volts. The short network cable coming from the module plugs into the back of the inverter to receive program setting. The longer remote cable is a temperature sensor to be run somewhere inside the coach. It sense temperature to start generator when the temperature rise over a set temperaturer. I set the temperature to 75 and ran the end of that wire outside and it works as program when the temperature went above 75. The generator didn't shut down after the temperature dropped to 66 well below the set point. In the field I will be coming home to chilly dogs (pun intended). Not really for I will have the AC set higher but you should get the point. The problem is that when the module shuts off, it fails to shut down the generator first. I have it wired according to instruction to the module.

I got the auto generator start module network version, install it and program it at the control panel. It starts the generator as programed but the generator don't shut off as supposed to when commands by the program. I recheck the wiring harness at the module for start stop and common and they work fine there. I set the dip switches in the module for Quiet Diesel Generator. Does anybody knows what could of went wrong? New control panel, new inverter charger, new AGS module. The following is the latest on the install upgrade. AGS kit comes with module, network cable, 50 foot temperature wire, warning sticker and owners manual. This is the wiring harness from the coach connection. Blue is hour meter, orange is 12 volts, white is ground, red is gen start, brown is gen common, green is gen stop. On the lower left is the dip switch and they are all set to off for Quiet Diesel generator. The lower right is the setting for battery which is 12 volts in this case. This is the AGS module mounted with network and temperature cable plugged in. When the program is running the status light is green and goes out when program has ended. The generator not supposed to be running at that point unless manually started. This is the problem I have is the generator don't turn off at end of program and has to be manually turn off.

I can't tell you how many I changed when I worked in a fleet shop. There was a run of a weak design that we went through.

I stopped paying for gps when I got the rand mcnally piece of junk a few years ago and sent for refund. I been using google maps ever since with no problems. You also get traffic updates.

Weather it's a retrofit or not there should be a time when it should be slid out for cleaning. Dust bunnies, fan stopped, poor air circulation, you name it.

The first step is to put that new remote in. Done The next step is to install a AGS controller. I have to order it. It will need to be wired into the harness I found in the inverter charger compartment. I tested the harness today and it tested good as per the wire diagram and color codes. Six wires connect from the coach harness to the AGS controller, A 4 pin wire connects from the AGS controller to the inverter charger. Another 4 pin wire connects to the temperature sensor. I'm not sure if I need to buy that separate. Once install it can be program to start if it gets too hot. The a/c or heat pump need to be already setup when the generator starts and give it 120 volts. Magnum Energy Automatic Generator Start Controller - Network Version The ME-AGS-N is the 'network' version of Magnum Energy's Automatic Generator Start (AGS) controllers. The version is setup and operated via a Magnum Energy Inverter and ME-RC or ME-ARC remote panel. When using the ME-RC Remote, the ME-AGS-N has basic adjustments starting on battery voltage or temperature. When using the ME-ARC remote, the ME-AGS-N has advanced start and stop settings based on: Time of day, battery State of Charge, battery voltage, high temperature, or inverter load amps. Also includes the ability to manually turn the generator ON and off, generator exercise, warmup and cooldown.

Got the remote today and installed easy as used same wiring and screws to mount. Below picture is the difference of the old and new remote control. This in the new remote installed and when it booted up I had to set the clock in it for the auto start and select temperature display in C or F.

I found a wiring harness in the same compartment as the inverter charger that should be for the auto generator start. I then look up on the net and found a diagram on how to wire it to the module by color codes for my coach and the quiet diesel. It also show how to set the dip switches. I'm going to receive the ARC 50 tomorrow and right after I install it this weekend I will get out my power probe and test that harness connector.

Here's another idea since your plugged into shore power. Why not use the house batteries since they are already hooked up to a 100 amp charger inverter. That air compressor should perform well using those batteries. Be sure you got it hooked up to 12 volts.

You can get the temperature right from your RC 50. Press tech button, press rotating dial, rotate dial to see battery and two internal temperature.

If you are using the inverter You need a vent to let the heat out and even better to have a fan blowing to the outside. The way I'm cutting the dirt is using a A/C foam filter on the air inlet of the compartment. My new inverter charger is quite up to date and I have a ARC 50 remote control on the way. I have to find the wiring for the auto start module before I think about hooking it up.

Your remote should have battery temperatures and inverter charger temperatures read out. On my RC 50 it's under the tech menu.

My coach is equipped with a load management and with 30 amps will shut off a A/C as needed. If A/Cs are running and you use the microwave , instead of turning off the microwave it will turn off one A/C until you're done with the microwave. You can't run everything with limited amount of amps. You said that when you run the generator the problem goes away. There you go.

I would check with DW first before removing those mirrors. They may complain about them but try to remove them. 😲

Yep, what jleamont said. Very painless.

I talked to Magnum Energy tech support today and they said no way covering the unit even if it's off. They said it would cost $850 to rebuild the old unit and I paid $830 from iMarine for a new one. They said the different between the the ME 2012 and the ME 2012-20b is that the circuits coming out of the unit don't need a subpanel as long 20 amps is not exceeded the two built in breakers. The remote I have is the RC 50 with old software and they recommend an updated remote . They recommended at least the updated RC 50 or the updated ARC 50 if I want auto generator start in the future. I know the coach is wired for auto start so I ordered the ARC 50 for $30 more. I think I just have to order the module for it to work. WOW a big upgrade. Anybody want the old inverter charger? It will make a great boat anchor.

The front inlet vent is mounted between compartment walls and not directed behind the rear wheels. The setup is like this, rear wheels, battery compartment that has opening inboard bottom to let air in then the compartment with the charger inverter. The dirt inside the inverter looks like what you get if you are forced to drive through chip and seal road projects. .

It has to be vented as the inverter charger has two fans in it. There is a vent on the front wall that I put an A/C filter on it and a rear exhaust fan on back wall in case the compartment gets too hot. I wonder if I can throw a towel over it while traveling? I'm going to call Magnum support and ask.

I tether my Sprint phone to my laptop and it worked great. Sprint says I don't need mifi since I have unlimited phone.

Holy dirt batman. Looks like the coach builders shouldn't of put the inverter charger in a compartment behind the rear wheels. I couldn't see what burnt up or smell anything but I think this dirt helped push it over the edge. The charger quick working but the inverter still work. Must be the fet board. Pictures below. Notice where I rub my finger across the circuit board.

Here is the picture of the constant duty solenoid I promise. It serves as both starting boost (by holding a button) and charge by connecting house and chassis batteries together while engine is running. Two set of 12 volt wiring goes into this setup, one from the boost switch and one from the alternator. Below picture shows the solenoid. The large cable connectors got cut off by the box above it. The rust and corrosion due being in a wet compartment area and is hard on that solenoid. I had to replace it once for that reason. One thing to note, if the chassis battery is very low it will take away voltage from the solenoid so it won't kick on. Below is a simplified wiring diagram showing charging without battery boost button.

I will take a picture of the solenoid and trace the purple wire tomorrow.