jleamont

The one in the photo above is about 3" from my gray tank valve 8" from the black. It points at the pair of them. I would think it would suffice for those. Most coaches with basement heat have a few other heating units down there and they all work in conjunction with each other. There is also tank heater elements and the Aqua Hot has a radiator in that bay with dual fans blowing hot air around. It appears the electric heater is to assist as there is no insulation in the bottom of the wet bay.

When they get old there is no peeling that junk. You scrape it off. A good chemical to loosen it up so it's softer than cement is a huge help along with steam. Believe me steam did absolutely nothing by itself, I tried to cheap out, no such luck, that approach did work on my friends coach. I also tried 3m's product to loosen it up, all that did was brown out the mold. The kit I bought had a cream to apply the day before, heat and scrape, the kit also came with tools gloves, goggles, tarp and adhesive remover, waxes and paint cleaners. Worked like a charm. Mine was covered in black mold and cracks, there was no peeling anything!

Bahama Mama Blake, no heaters on in winter. I run RV antifreeze through the plumbing. If I need to do any work on it over the winter I will turn the Aqua Hot on an hour before I start.

YUP, put a bag of frozen daiquiri on the sensor, turned the "system heat" switch on and it powered up along with all of the basement tank heaters .

Fixed and reinstalled. The relay in the photo was the fault.

Easy way, pay someone else to do it! Harder way, order the kit from the web, spend 12 hours of your time removing it like I did. The chemicals, skill, tools and labor is going to cost no matter how you approach it.

manholtX, sounds like a super villain

JIT, check the voltage difference across the master battery switch's while someone is cranking or attempting to start the generator. After move onto the grounds, clean and re-secure that to the frame.

Bill, what micron spec do you need? I have a case of Fleetguard FS1015's and the base for it, they have the clear bowel on the bottom. I have no need now with a Davco on the primary side

Williames, stomp the brake pedal rapidly, did it go out? Mine does that on occasion, a few stabs on the pedal and it quiets down. I bought a new Pressure switch and didn't it stop doing it!!

What kind of Peppermint oil did you use? There is the extract and regular. I had a few mice out back of the house on the patio, I put a few drops on the pavers, haven't seen any trace of them now.

Roadmaster 035 and 035-1 are the part numbers, here is a photo on my Demco bar

JM, we tow from a steel bumper now like Manholt. I have my air line connection in the grill and the only thing under is the electrical connection, but even that is above the steel skid plate. I wouldn't tow any other way unless I needed a dolly for the golf cart and Jeep. If you are set on Blue Ox, get the bar that has the bolt it pivots on, not the one with the aluminum ball, I see too many of those broken on the web. The M&G brake system is also good for off road usage as it has no electronics in the interior (or anywhere for that matter) that could get wet and damaged. Also, Roadmaster bars have an adapter that will connect to a bumper tow hook eyelets. I know Demco does not but the roadmaster ones fit, I don't think Blue Ox does either.

Glad to hear, the bottom of ours is mostly open with a grate underneath, I could see water everywhere with an undercarriage wash

Rich, I always photo the electrical stuff before dismantling it. Save me several times! I was pleasantly surprised how simple the internals of this heater were, not much inside and everything was a simple test with an ohm meter, no PC board! I jumped this relay and it powered up so....now the wait for the part......

Thanks guys, I ordered it.... I was shocked at how expensive that heater is new.

Did the wash have the ground mounted sprayers shooting up into the underside of the generator? I think I'd slide it out, pull covers and take a peek around. Any wet connections dry them out.

Agreed, but wouldn't it be more beneficial to upgrade the main Inverter in that situation? I realize there is more of a cost associated to upgrade the main Inverter/charger but the long term benefits seem to outweigh.

Here is the failed component.

Anyone replace one of these before? If so what brand did you use? I am searching for a relay that failed internally, I might just fix it if the parts are accessible and reasonable.

If a dedicated Inverter is all that Powers the refrigerator that seems to me as more of a roadblock vs a benefit. When on generator or shore power that Inverter is still working and so is the charger portion of the main unit keeping up. Seems like it would stress more items than it's worth. Am I missing something here?

Agreed! I salvaged the good parts off of ours and kept them in case someone needed something I'd give them the parts. Got tired of looking at them and tossed them into the trash. I swear I just read this very post on Facebook....

I ONLY park on the mats at home. With that being said our set up at home has two spots, the driveway or the RV parking pad. During the travel season it usually resides in the driveway, gets stored off season on its pad. The pad is gravel and the driveway is asphalt. Either way it goes on the rubber pads and the tire covers go on. No pads or tire covers while traveling. The longest we sit still is 5-7 days. If longer I would carry the tire covers. I do use tire UV protection spray. 303 or similar, mostly for appearance.