jleamont

yea, but we don't hold any of that against you, love you just the same

Check your outside shower, make sure both the hot and cold valves are shut off. If they are open and the switch on the handle is clicked off the hot and cold can mix.

YUP, here is the link for that specific page, you will have to measure to see what length you need. http://yourtireshopsupply.com/category/9_864_424/valve-extensions-truck

Since you are hanging TPMS sensors off of the extensions, I would definitely go with the rubber support plugs in the wheels.

YUP, that's where I bought my extensions and supports from, they were the only company that had the Monaco wheel supports (they (supports, not extensions) are wheel manufacture specific).

This is what I have on the inner rear wheels https://www.finditparts.com/products/7666749/haltec-127393?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K7666749-L83&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjLm644GT1gIVWrXACh2k7gk6EAQYBCABEgIPqPD_BwE

The flex hose extensions are known to leak and cause problems, the solid extensions are not, especially if they have a support on the outer wheel to keep them stabilized. When I picked up the new tires this year I asked about balancing beads (powder is no longer available from what I was told), was told not to use them by the tire dealer since most manufactures will void your tire warranty, our coach already had Centramatics installed so I have nothing in the way of balancing other than the Centramatics.

NEVER CROSS THE GW BRIDGE LOVE IT!!!

Carl, good to know, thanks!

This was almost me a few times thanks to Rand McNally . Lola was a Rand McNally product

Mine are below the inside wall, so if the outer flaps guide water in it puddles on the seals, eventually it leaks inside. Now the wall is capped with stainless steel where they rest so no rot. Either way I do not want water laying back there. I believe by design the inside are to block air and the "wipers" are to direct water away.

I have heard how difficult it is to pick a location for a rally, but if you look back at previous rally locations they were spread out better, as mentioned above, huge rally attendees in Maine, but yet that location has not been put back on the list. I owned a small business, my customers were here but I go over there, away from them, said no successful business owner ever. I'm stepping off the soap box, everyone have a good night.

Interesting, as I was typing that It just dawned on me how much I love the magazine (one of the main reason for my membership) if it's diluted with trailer stuff that's gone, at 6 copies a year it cost me $10.00 per issue, as that is all my membership provides to my family in benefits that I can see and touch, comradeship is the other, toss trailers into it I lost both .

The lack of attendance isn't nessasarly a result of less Motorhomes. Less convenient locations of rallies and people are working longer in life with less free time. We have several friends with Motorhomes and trailers for that matter, no one but my wife and I see the value, most modern families don't want the extra expense for little net gain that they feel they don't need and are not into socializing in groups, I love that, plus I'm a techncial guy, this is a good fit for me. If the organization was actively trying to recruit 10% of Motorhomes sold in the last 25 years this would be a moot point.

Roger, I have the same problem with ours. I'm replacing the seals next year since they are getting brittle, hoping new seals will flip properly. If not your fix is on my list!

The belt faces the back of the coach, not the front like you might think.

Check your belt. I have seen where they are cold and will only run for 15 seconds without the belt.

Any blink codes on the on/off switch?

Rich, I agree it does save a bunch of wiring, but no one had this many problems until it came into the industry, gauges connected directly to the source proved reliable for many, many years. Now I have tractors with the Engine light on because the CD player jammed up . Just had a new tractor the other day, we pulled the radio out for repair, truck wouldn't start , had to drop the drive shaft to tow it out into the lot , remember this all started with a radio problem. The money spent now a days to keep this stuff on the road is insane, common sense and reliability went out the door, now we throw money, lots of money at it to keep it on the road, meanwhile our older tractors are up over 1 million miles with minor problems occurring that you would expect and can figure into the equation. the reps come in to sell more equipment, all I hear is what the next gadget will do, in my mind; oh great, that will be several more breakdowns.

Coolant filter add on is crucial on a 6.0L, that oil cooler needs all the help it can get to stop it from clogging, good decision! I installed an oil cooler bypass on one a few years ago, it put the cooler in the grill and the oil filter behind the bumper, supposedly to solve the normal problems that engine had from poor designs. Expensive kit but it works. http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/product_p/bpd-eoc-bpof-heavy-duty.htm

Multiplexing; engineers love it, mechanics and end users hate it.

2Stroker, treat it like your powerstroke, the fuel system design is identical, different parts to make it work but that's it. The international T444, DT466 and Fords version of the T444 (7.3L powerstroke) are almost part interchangeable with the 3126E C7 and C9. You pull an injector from any of them put them on a table you will mix them up, they look that identical on the outside. Archoil is a miracle worker on the 6.0L and 7.3L ford. I keep it in stock. Synthetic oils will also help, I run it in my Cummins also, either Mobile or Shell, depending which is priced better from my oil supplier.