jleamont

Bill AKA "Hawk Eye" from M.A.S.H Nice Triage!

yea, that could be!!

In nice weather we travel with the roof vents (not the one in the bathroom) open along with the side windows. If its hot they are all closed up, generator and roof top AC's are on. I have traveled in the rain with the roof vents open (side windows closed) and the dash AC on, it helps pull the cold air through the coach. I don't get strong smells in this unit while doing so either.

Nice!! I don't think you are too old for it, its just a bear of a job!

As mentioned above, most add on roof rain covers have a gap between the roof and the cover, I could see where this would allow water to enter the roof vents while traveling. This and the lack of quality I experienced with the fantastic fans is the reason I removed all of the existing roof fans on ours and installed the model in the photo below. I'm not sure a problem actually exists with the covers that were put on, photo would explain a lot. I kind of understand why the unit was reroofed, we know the rubber roofs tend to be loud inside and require a lot of routine maintenance. Where as the roof system installed above doesn't require much maintenance if any at all and provides a better level of insulation and no side wall chalking. I would be concerned with the warranty now, if you got something from Thor in writing you should be good. I would hate to see something like a delamination problem occur and them blame it on the roof, sounds crazy but in most cases they look for a loop hole to bail out on a customer, I would hate to see that happen.

Tom, enjoy the toys, you only live once make each day count!

YUP, and walked with a limp because of it

Yea you are. Watch the corner of the engine, it's razor sharp

I have given this some thought my here's my thoughts; when the dealer rerates horsepower they do it via a full ECM software download change, and a lot of items (parameters) are altered to achieve the power change but prior several things are taken into consideration before its allowed, here are a few examples; air flow to the engine compartment, cooling system capabilities, how much heat will be generated in the space provided, etc. When an aftermarket company software goes in, most of the time they just crank up engine timing and alter the time the fuel injector is flowing fuel the injectors after a certain throttle position, the sub systems mentioned above are not taken into consideration (how would they even know, chassis manufacture and coach manufacture determines most that). If a Cummins dealer did a rerate on the engine, I would be good with that, and they will only set it to what the engine is capable of producing based off of the internal components it was built with. As mentioned above its a give and take scenario. I have been involved with several truck rerates in the past, some we were unable to perform due to cab mounting, sounds crazy but the 25 HP the customer requested was denied due to low cab mounting lack of air flow which could potentially cause a fire or engine damage and inadequate cooling system (radiator size). Another one I did I had to replace the drive shafts and yokes, they were not designed to handle the extra power coming down them, maxed out at the factory when designed. The days of adding a different carburetor, intake manifold or camshaft for more power are gone, chassis are now built to tight tolerances and no room for advancement is allowed.

That is what I use at home on the asphalt driveway or parked in gravel (RV pad is gravel).

I didn't remove the coolant lines, just pulled it back enough for it to drop down so I could reach up for sensor access. Some oil did drop out, it drained from within the compressor itself, the return oil port is right there, so when it's tilted it all comes out. I also got lucky, the metal/neoprene gasket wasn't damaged upon removal, I reused it. one tip; remove the screw and spin the sensors slightly to unseat the o-rings then Continue to rock them up and down while pulling outward.

Never had a Samsung, it required to many modifications to the cabinet to make it fit. DW told me any CUFT close to the NoCold 1200LRIM or better was adequate. Ours is 15.5 the Nocold was 12.0 (or close to it). It slid in like it belonged, plus Fleetwood was using the same model as factory optional equipment, I figured someone tested it in a coach environment, what the heck, the last huge plus.....$585.00 price tag. I figured if it only lasted 5 years I wasn't out much $$$. Ending year 3, no regrets!

I actually inquired about this with Xantrex prior to our residential conversion. I was told to swap the unit was simple, the only difference was our remote control panel inside was not compatible with the newer inverter and had to be replaced also. No rewiring required. I have heard of a few installing a 2nd inverter by itself dedicated the refrigerator, that a different game all together that would require some wiring. As far as the calling customer support . I called them with questions, they read from a screen and had no idea how to answer my questions, I gave up. I installed a GE in our coach, its a 15.5CUft, I went with this unit for a few reasons, 1, almost no cabinet modification necessary to make it fit. Just a notch up top for the upper hinge to clear the cabinet opening inside. 2, I saw the same model in a new Fleetwood Excursion that came from the factory, I figured someone at Fleetwood and GE determined it would be ok in a motorhome environment. I had no idea if it would run on MSW inverter, the Fleetwood coach had a PSW inverter. I bought it, took it home, ran a cord from the coach to the refrigerator siting in the garage, powered it up via inverter and shore power, listening for a sound difference in the motor, none noted. I let it cool down on the inverter, checked the motor temperature, wrote it down. Did the same plugged into shore power, no difference in noise or temperatures. I installed it the next day.

Bill A, welcome to PA! Our coach has EZ pass, so does the toad, while in tow the Toad EZ pass goes in its wrapper and into the glove box, while in tow its considered a trailer, axle count applies for charges. Here is where it gets sticky. The coach weight determines what Pass you need, an "RV" EZ pass is only good to 14,000 lbs, when you cross the toll booth scale if you are over that often it will not register you are equipped, if the booth has a gate (NJ is famous for these) it will not open, found this out the hard way. When you have a coach over 14,000 lbs you need a commercial transponder, this also means you need a separate account, (personal accounts cannot have a commercial transponder on it) then you have to select the transponder for the weight and amount of axles, in our case 2 axles on the coach and 2 axles on the toad, if no toad behind us I still have to pay for 4 axles! We try to avoid toll roads when possible, out here on the east coast its not always that easy. The part that aggravates me besides the cost, the toll roads are often in the worse condition. In MD we run the tunnels, no propane now, the last coach didn't have enough to matter. The toll lanes in MD are labeled over 5 Ton lanes, don't know why they are often the narrower lanes, pulled up with the last coach, it wouldn't register (we were right at the 14,000 lb mark) the lady asked for the money, I explained we had EZ Pass, she replies it didn't register (real sassy attitude that didn't sit well with me), I pulled it off the windshield and handed it to her, asked her to scan the bar code to charge it, she replied we don't have that technology and I had to pay in cash, I responded apparently you don't have the technology to read it either as I approached, knowing it would charge the license plate also I told her NO, she explained the police would chase me down if I proceed and there was an officer sitting just beyond the booth, my response you better call over to him, I'm out of here, have a nice day! I drove off, he never looked my way even when the alarm went off.

That is a great way to bring in new chapter members! I chased down three locals, only one responded after several emails and phone calls. The one that responded doesn't appear to be a good fit for us on the surface. Another new member and I have discussed starting a chapter, geared toward younger families. The pending outcome of the vote will determine if either of our families continue to be a part of FMCA. My membership expires in November I'm not going to renew until the decision is announced, if it passes, the eggs come off the coach, including the Diesel RV club and we turn the page on this chapter of our lives already a GS life member, I'll put those dues to other use. Dons; here is our "towable"

I was thinking the same

I believe the wheel design is key to selecting the tire valve extensions. Tireman I also didn't like the airless extensions, having a plunger that long just seemed like it was going to create more problems that do good. If your wheels have large hand holes the flexible extensions work good, if they are small as the wheel rotates centrifugal force pulls the braided line into the wheel and if you have wheel simulators the opening has a sharp edge. That's what burned me on our E-450 chassis, they were centered but as I drove it pulled the hoses into the sides of the hole and chaffed the hoses. Here is an example of the size of the holes I was dealing with, there was no hope for a flexible hose. It became a routine to inspect the hoses, which later turned into me sliding a small fuel line over the air extensions with a zip tie to stop the protector from sliding, and replace the rubber protector annually in lieu of the extensions.

YUP, ours also!

Tom, no good! That is one reason I wont consider a coach with slides on the passenger side.

YUP!!

RR, as mentioned, to remove shouldn't take much more than an hour at the most. I pulled the last one from an 03 Wrangler before we traded it in 30 minutes. Installation always takes longer as you are trying to route stuff to keep it protected, so there is a delay, to label and remove is much faster.

Jim, the video is for an F53 chassis not the E450. I had the same chassis under this coach. Here's what I did. As Brett mentioned, inspected the steering and suspension, front and rear, anything worn out, replace it. Weigh coach (loaded, full tank of fresh water, fuel, normal belongings in the coach), set tire pressures accordingly. Alignment; have a good alignment shop check Caster I recommend they increase the caster setting, (link https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/fleet-alignment-tools/) it usually will help and set the toe, if ok, move onto aftermarket parts to correct you concern. I ended with aftermarket parts. All of the steps above helped but none took me to where my expectations were. I installed Roadmaster front and rear sway bars bought them from this company http://www.supersteerparts.com/ Also installed a Rear track bar, also purchased from the link above. Installed Bilstein shocks, searched the web for the best price. they make a different rear shock based off of the coach length, make sure you purchase the correct ones. Once you determine the part numbers of the individual components if you get to that point, do a web search you might find a better deal. The track bar they custom build for your chassis, maybe call them for a package discount?

Yes, very simple to install, here is a photo of what they look like on the outer wheel when it pops through the support

Pros, cant think of any, maybe help against stone chips if you are a driver that follows that close to the traffic in front of you. Cons, have to replace every 5 years or so, expensive to put on and take off. Looks terrible around the 5 year timeline