jleamont

While the system is on, is there hot air coming from the vents? Do you have condensation inside? I would think if the cold is that close to you it would create water. I'm sorry to say but I would give them two choices; 1, Invite Aqua Hot to come out and be 100% certain all is working property. A phone conversation with a tech that doesn't know much about the system wouldn't cut it with me. If the diesel burner is on all the time something doesn't sound right. I.e. Improper flame BTU. 2, Hand them the keys to THEIR new coach. Carl, you have a late model Aqua Hot, does your burner run like that or does it cycle throughout the hour? Mine is Cast iron so it holds some heat, not sure about the newer versions.

Pops, not much I can help you with other than it sounds like its not working properly to me or the coach insulation is allowing to much heat loss. Since the system is running all the time id bet its a problem with the system or the way it was installed. Our Aqua Hot is a different model (discontinued now) and I turn ours on often in the middle of winter to go out and work on the coach. I go out an hour ahead of time and turn on the electric and diesel, go back in the house. We are in PA also and at 20 degrees in the coach and outside it will tank the AH an hour to bring the interior up to 68, then the diesel burner will cycle on maybe 5-10 minutes an hour to maintain that temp after the initial warm up, we also have a three zone system. What strikes me as odd is why they blocked vents with the slides closed, all of our registers are placed through out the interior so not to interfere with the slide outs as you need those while traveling for comfort, it defeats the purpose of the system. Once they call AH they should be on track, their tech support is fantastic. If it were my coach I would request Aqua Hot send a field engineer out, that way they can put their head around the installation by Thor and your concern.

Bill, thank you for adding that to the post. When I saw that I cringed, once I got to a PC I was going to do the same.

Strats, I put a Fass pump on our coach. Pump cost $460 ish. If you can photo it I could probably ID what pump you need.

Nice looking Coach!

Strats, can you post your engine serial number? The photo below is where its located.

DD, can you photo that pump location to help strats identity it? Electric on a circa 1997 engine?

Your lift pump should be on the side of the engine depending on your serial number. Looks like this; if electric that gives you more options, take a peak around and snap some photos.

BFgoodrich makes them in that size they are about $150 less a tire and BFG is a Michelin company. I am changing our coach from that size to 12R22.5 much easier to find and a whole lot less $$$$ The only part that stinks is I am doing all 6 at once .

Strats, the lift pump is nothing more (on your era engine) than an old style mechanical fuel pump, it supplies fuel to the fuel injection pump. Think of it as a fuel pump on an old car with a carburetor, same concept. Now the fuel injection pump in those years is timed and a bit more tricky to replace and probably a Bosch 7100 series fuel injection pump, usually cost around $2500.00. They are usually pretty strong however the new diesel fuel will chew them up due to lack of lubricants as well as low supply pressure from clogged filers or a weak lift pump. See if you have a diesel fuel injection shop around you, they could pull it, test it and repair/rebuild it if need be. That would be the cheapest route. Either way someone will need to check fuel pressure going to that injection pump for proper diagnosis. Hermans recomendation on the exhaust brake is also a simple check, make sure it's open and if possible disconnect it and mechanically hold it open (get creative). Usually when these engage you can hear an exhaust note change (sounds like a vacuum cleaner back at the tail pipe).

does it smoke at idle or only under load when it looses power? It could be one of three things from your description; clogged filter due to bacteria in the fuel bad lift pump bad fuel injection pump your engine has a mechanical lift pump. It's located on the passenger side of the engine, also should incorporate a hand pump to prime the filter. You will need to have it tested, I believe they put out 8 psi under load. Not a bad job, usually just tying a gauge inline with the outlet line off of the pump. The last one I bought was last year and it was around $80.00 if memory serves me. Good thing for you it's an old school mechanical engine, much more cost effective for parts and labor and a hole lot easier to work on. After the last filter change it did run better correct? If so I would pull the primary filter and cut it open. For the $20.00 filter it's step one in diagnosis. Where are you located, home etc? Since I'm sure you are not equipped to test fuel pressure, see if you have a mobile diesel mechanic in your area, maybe call a local Cummins dealer and ask if they offer road services or if the can recommend someone. Beyond the filter check that might be your best bet without throwing parts at it.

WOW , that's great news!! If it were me I would be A/C unit shopping, sounds like the generator was not the problem. Several "RV TECHS" and a compressor were however the beginning of ones sanity loss . By chance were any of the techs named Rodger? Inside joke.... a few on here now are smiling now...YEA I went there! The quote you had of $200.00 for installation seemed OK. The cost of the unit was a bit high. The hardest part of replacing the unit is getting the new on onto the roof. Two ladders and a helper would be ideal, not very heavy, just clumsy and large. Getting the old one down....well I did a shot-put maneuver and watched it bounce off of the lawn several feet away.

My bad. Yea the new "Roadmaster" chassis is a Freightliner rebadged as Roadmaster by Freightliner. Its not a Semi Monocoque chassis as the TRUE Roadmaster chassis was. Between that and the air bag location being inward rather than out I can see why it was all over the road, probably felt tipsy also.

Blake, you have a Roadmaster RR8S chassis. Why there is Freightliner markings in there makes no sense. You have the later version of the chassis we have RM8H Roadmaster. chassis/engine/suspension Roadmaster RR8S-Series Chassis Cummins Allison ® ® ISL 400 Electronic Engine with 3000 MH 6-Speed World Transmission

Also, code 50 looks like "engine speed to low". I believe you have a fuel system problem, not a transmission problem.

Strats, sounds like an engine lack of power problem rather than transmission i.e. blue smoke. Lack of engine power will make the transmission act up as its not receiving the power it is expecting, odd shifts, banging in and out of gear are just a few symptoms that would be common. What year engine is in your coach and do you know if its a mechanical diesel engine or electronic? I'm betting low fuel pressure/volume to the injection pump. With that being said how old are the fuel filters? Can you change them and cut them open to see if they are loaded with crud? Lastly, are you sure the smoke is blue and not more of a white color?

Well that would be a great reason to support Chevron! Its like paying yourself back, more oil you buy more $$ goes into your pension

Russians, LOL

Its much deeper than just not replying on the forum for me .

Yes, said another way It represents the spec the oil must meet. One thing I learned a few years back at an oil seminar; oil specs have a range that each manufacture must achieve to call their product CK4 compliant. Some just barely make it while others cross the minimum threshold and continue to accelerate to the top of the requirements. These are usually the tier 1 manufactures. That answers Ian's question of why branch away from the manufactures recommended oil. OEM fill is not usually a tier 1 product due to costs. So the thought is purchase the better product for engine longevity, better oil analysis reports and hope to gain fuel economy. One thing not mentioned, the proper spec is more critical on engines requiring it, older engines can benefit but its not necessary as the oil technology has improved over the years.

Carl, interesting.....I will not use my debit card anywhere except my bank. Don't trust the system after it being hacked 2x now in the last 5 years. I strictly use a credit card, get the free stuff/cash back and pay it off when we get home.

I stopped using Love's when I got bad fuel last Memorial Day .

Oneway, I would follow Kay's advice, this will insure its not the generator. Sounds like the amperage draw on the A/C might be the generator problem, but you will need to try the heater approach first to be certain.

OUCH!

Keep in mind when upgrading if you choose that route. Not all larger coaches will handle the same just because its a DP or it has a tag axle. Chassis design and weight distribution play a huge part in this. We sit at 270" Wheel base 41'2" overall length NO Tag. I can run in wind all day at the most I feel is a very minor tug in the steering, no sway and NO lean whatsoever. I have Roadmaster and their outboard air bag design to thank for that. Just to add, Our last coach had a serious tail wag, (11.5' of after axle overhang) sway and was terrible to drive, certain situation it felt like it was going to tip over if the wind hit it right. I threw aftermarket sway bars, Rear axle track bar and shocks on it and while it did handle much better (I was able to keep it in the lane in wind, no more leaning or white knuckles) it made it ride rough.