jleamont

BREDAN/WILLIAMS, Welcome! Good looking coach. They don't build them like that anymore (cost too much $$$ to do it correctly ) take care of it and it will last!

Certification is for portable tanks only as DD69 mentioned above. Since you tank is permanently mounted its not "portable". Beware some places will argue this point, I encountered it twice where they refused to fill it. One 18 yr old kid insisted my mounted tank (like the one in the picture above) is "portable" since the RV has wheels....I kid you not. If I hadn't found the regulation on the web (got to love a smart phone) and showed it to him and his boss. I would have been out of propane soon while on a cross country trip had it not been for the phone and my persistence.

HA, you beat me to it! I was thinking the same

If you head this way for Pot Roast bring the coach and stop by or I can come over and point it out to you. Got you thinking about pot roast huh?

Obed, here is a photo of where they typically are located. Pointed at the camera is the knob.

Obedb, some have it and others don't. If its there it would be on top or just next to the fuel filter on the engine. The last two I can recall looking at in a RV were not equipped.

Check your engine oil level, make sure it is full or close to it. While cranking it over...is it spinning fast or slower than normal? What was the reason for the battery change?

YUP, if you ask 95% are "big rig friendly" in reality 50% truly are . I now use Google earth for an aerial view and youtube, you would be surprised how many campgrounds have had a drone fly over and you get a great perspective on the size inside.

Also, I would recommend removing the refrigerator outside access panel and shut off the water to the ice maker. The cover is exposed to the outside temperature and it is vented, therefore that water line is likely to freeze as the temperature in that cavity is not much warmer that outside. You can access the rear of the shower faucet from the interior wall behind the faucet. Our coach has a mirror that unscrews on the kitchen wall. The plumbing is right there and is accessible from the Kitchen. Depending on your floor plan I'm sure there is a hidden access.

Tracey, I believe you can shut the hot and cold off to the vanity area. As Blake mentioned above in the bay with your Aqua Hot is a manifold with red and blue hoses and a key clipped to the top. Just shut the water off to the area in the coach with the problem. I would strongly recommend purchasing a regulator ASAP.

Puff, sorry to hear!! People don't get the nose swing of a DP, they just can't process how it acts when you back up. You guys have it made, my DW backs me over stuff . She was guiding me into a spot at a Campground, she motions me to keep coming and she yells STOP. I stop, hop out and I'm on top of the fire pit, well the pit is now level with the ground, one of those large ones with the flip up grille. No coach damage but I was steaming, then she blames it on me for not paying attention. So now I hop out look around and back in, she still helps but at that moment two years ago I knew and know now I am really on my own.

Brett, would that also have the filter/strainer on the frame since its a "B" series?

Same here. I just slide the thermostats in each zone I want heat and the system (electric and diesel) are shut off. The basement will also work if below the desired temp setting and the "system heat" switch is on.

Howdy Neighbor!

Roland, if the coach came from the north or the "Salt Belt" as we call it over here is really only a concern if it was driven in those conditions. Parked in storage wouldn't be a concern of mine. Our coach was purchased in North Tonawanda, NY new in 2001 and resided in Rising Sun MD (still not a good area for winter). It couldn't have been driven in the winter, it has no chassis rust whatsoever. I looked at a 2002 American Dream before we purchased this coach and it had soft cross members underneath and holes in metal as far back as the engine surround. A good inspection should be in order either way. Good luck with your searches.

Brett

Carl, I looks like it is. I also believe it's not available anymore. Source Engineering makes a kit to relocate and replace with a different design. It's supposed to be a variable speed type. I guess a call into REv tomorrow is in order first.

I believe I have a fan thermostat problem. The fan went on high at 100 degrees, I pulled over walked to the bedroom (floor was off already) the air coming through the radiator was still cold, which makes sense as the thermostat on the engine is a 180 degree and had not opened yet. That fan roared the rest of the roadtest. It's always acted like this but I usually only run the coach when it's hot out and this was the first time I ran it with the floor open. My fan control thermostat is just below the upper inlet to the radiator (screwed into the radiator) and it only has two hydraulic hoses connected to it, no electric connection. Thoughts?

Installed, no leaks and fit great. I pressure tested the system then pulled it into a vacuum for an hour, it held so I vacuum filled the system. I only have to replace a bracket I noticed was broken, the pipe is clamped to one of the cross beams. I'm guessing it's so the radiator neck doesn't have to support the weight, seems unnecessary but since it came that way....

Can you see the engine front cover? Should look like this if it's an ISL. My guess is it's an ISL 370 which is the entry HP for an ISL.

I had to Mig it, the Tig was fighting me and I gave up on my test pipe. The stainless wire and pipe doesn't flow and bead like regular alloy and all joints are butted together not lap in one another. I will have to photo the factory lower pipe, those welds look like Bird droppings and those joints are lapped . Must have been a Monday job after a holiday .

Ha, I was worried those plumbing pipe Caps would burst. It would have happened in the middle of the night, DW would have woke up swinging . Now that I think about it, that would have been funny.

Photos... I pressure tested it to 25 psi, let it sit over night under pressure and soaked it down with soapy water tonight. I had to correct a few pin holes within the welds so they got rough looking, I always hate welding over weld. In case you are wondering why the union in the center, they are angle cut to allow for clearance in the chassis. That was tough due to warpage. But it's done!!

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I often see in my line of work a "universal" automatic transmission fluid that is trying to be pushed upon us and marketed as it can go in anything. In my opinion there is not "one size fits all" in the category. Especially if you have a newer Ford product calling for Mercon SP or LV. Most will advertise their fluid is compatible or the person selling assumes. If you have ever encountered that Ford spec there is no mistaking it (smells like gear oil friction modifier) and it has a heavier viscosity that you can see. I would find out what fluid was actually put in and take it from there. If it was the incorrect fluid take it back.