jleamont

on a hot day stay away!! you have been warned!! sorry, eew! Mr Wipple wow does that bring back memories. be careful of the WM TP, my friends DW bought it until he got a wood splinter .... You can guess where ouch .

Carl, cant afford to since I pay the higher fuel prices, pop tarts and pop corn is all they get

Five, check here. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/dinghy-towing-harnesses/?p=all Not sure what year your CRV is, but there are two kits (depending on the year of your car) on the link above.

I am on the fence with this topic. While I want to save $ on fuel the fear of not being able to get in and out of, have to deal with a car nozzle, the potential of old fuel (Yea, I get it if its cheaper in theory it moves faster but that also depends on how much is in storage prior under ground and how fast they move it that tank load), lets face it tractor trailers are not filling there if a 40' DP squeezes in. This place has the guy with the diesel pick up or VW that passes through once a week . Is it worth all of this; 1, the possibility of having to unhook toad 2, bottoming out entering and exiting 3, not being able to fit under the canopy 4, getting bad fuel 5, standing there holding the nozzle while the car nozzle dribbles fuel into the tank and having to swipe my C Card several times (car pumps stop sooner than truck pumps) (usually only works twice). I have to hold the nozzle on our coach or it falls out . The most I think I could have ever saved (based off of Carl's numbers above) $14.00, while it does add up the 5 items that came to mind above worry me. If I was familiar with the place then I would go for it, if not..... I'm not so sure I would unless the sign on the highway had markings on it that made me feel better about the 5 concerns I had above i.e. "available truck/bus parking". I usually fill up at 1/2 a tank, on the way home I stop at a local place that has a diner next store with truck parking, maybe 5 miles from home, I can tell you his prices are not cheaper than the big places, but convenience and its the only place around I can safely get in and out of locally, otherwise I'm filling 5 gallon cans and driving back and forth until the coach is full since I never park it with anything less then a full tank.

Blake, are your house batteries tied down or just sitting there? If you stumble on replacement straps let me know, mine have the plastic buckles and most have broken, so I tied them together, now the webbing is frayed. Our coach could us some TLC, maybe clean and repaint the trays and replace the hold downs. Looks like the same Kwikee trays also.

PPL has some DP's that look nice for under $30,000

I go by calculator, not computer. Miles driven divided by gallons used, that was with the gen on also (only one way up), and you have to figure we did use the AH over the weekend also. I did no calculations for the GEN or AH, just miles into gallons. I am neurotic when I drive this coach watching the boost gauge and tachometer. If I just set the cruise and let it go it will fall into the low mid 8's, I only run the cruise on flat roads with little to no wind, otherwise it throttles in such a manner that makes no sense.

Took the unit for a good run to Mt Pocono over the weekend. Have accumulated around 300 miles on it, pulled hills like a champ. I suspect the lack of fuel to the engine was why my MPG's were so good. It has appeared to drop slightly in MPG's. Trips to the beach, the best was 10.05MPG, (have to re run this in a few weeks to see) to the Poconos best was 9.49 to now 9.24. As we know fuel quality, air temps and wind all play a part on this, so its hard to tell. I am expecting a drop in economy, no complaints with that as long as the engine is getting the proper amount of fuel to be happy, I'm happy .

Herman, I now tilt the coach when filling up also. That was great advice, thank you! I could never get a "FULL" tank according to my gauge, now it goes to full, and I do get some strange looks also. DW complains...."this is making me nauseas, that feels weird". I have found the only thing that frustrates me is the time it takes for the coach to go back to its correct ride height, I have to release the parking brake, put it in drive, switch back to neutral and reapply the parking brake.....and sit and wait....and wait. I will not move it until its sitting properly.

Rich, can't imagine why it wouldn't work. You might need a different spec fuel pump based off of your HP. Are you sure you only have one filter?

Blake, once I removed the wheels under the residential fridge it squeaked in. I didn't put trim on top, the residential door stickes up higher than the fridge box so there was no need for trim on top or bottom (bottom is open for air circulation). The top I had to notch the wall just enough for the upper hinge to slide into the opening. I put trim down the sides since the replacement is not as wide as the Norcold. The roof vent and wall vent are sealed closed also.

Tom, forgot duct tape, I also carry a product called "rescue tape" pretty neat stuff.

Blake, your engine should be "High pressure Common rail", not CAPS (different design) Ask your mechanical guy to look. I do know you have the same lift pump and should have the same issue pulling fuel that distance

Rich, I believe some of the confusion stems from the term "CAPS". While the ISB, ISC, ISL, ISM and ISX all had that system design there were many differences depending on the engine model and year. Some were equipped with the Bosch VP44 and others the Cummins designed and produced injection pump. I did recently located this kit to remove the entire CAPS system and replace it with the old Bosch 7100 series mechanical injection pump found in the years prior to CAPS. If you want to throw $8000.00 at it in parts alone. https://areadieselservice.com/diesel-power-products/product/caps-pump-replacement-kit/

Rich, what engine and year engine do you have?

Dave, have you read this post?

Jim, when the TJ got dirty I would clean it, it was a rust free 2003, which around these parts is pretty rare. The previous owner garage kept it and wouldn't drive it in the snow, I tried once in a blizzard, I wouldn't try that again either, so it sat under cover from November to April. Between the 3.73 gears, 4.0L and the manual trans and factory A/C I was as happy as I could be. I'm going to miss that jeep I was going to do a Cummins 4BT diesel conversion to it when the 4.0L died..Thought that would be fun

I am familiar with that chassis, and I can see why they do not want jacks on it. The rear "frame rails" are boxed sheet metal, to much load in one spot could do a real number to the chassis. If the manufacture doesn't recommend it I wouldn't think of it.

Blake, I'd bet the chassis and power train are 2004's, especially with a April build. Mine is a July 02 build and my engine is a 2001.

looks good Blake! We have always had at least one Jeep in the house and one Mustang, well that ship sailed....for now anyway. DW always had a Wrangler since before I met her so there was no swaying her a different way. I'd bet in the spring she will ask for a small lift on it....I can see it

Carl, I wanted to run the old one off road, and we were planning on it, there are trails not to far from home up in the mountains. The new one is just to pretty, see below. Need to get another TJ for that. Jim, we had the M&G on the TJ and loved it, best toad brake system in my opinion. It only took me, 1/2 hour to remove all of it, including the wiring for the breakaway system. I have said it before, if M&G doesn't make a cylinder for it I'm not buying that toad.

Jim, thank you for the information. This will be the third Jeep Wrangler toad. We started out with a 2009 4 door, absolutely hated its lack of power, traded it and bought a 2003, loved it but as the kids got taller it got smaller, so my DW wanted another 4 door with the new engine that was released in 2012, so here we are. I ordered a new cylinder from M&G yesterday, new base plate and this wiring harness plug and play kit. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/dinghy-towing-harnesses/jeep7.html The 2009 and 2003 I tapped in with diodes and wired it myself, while the 2003 was simple the 2009 was not. I wanted a plug and play kit this time.

I am on the fence with this post. I agree with points everyone brought up and disagree with others. I do agree that monitoring EGT is a great idea, who wants to damage their engine. I will say from experience....only a few times I have ever seen a stock engine over EG temp, usually takes another reason/contributor to achieve this. One was a defective Variable Vane Turbocharger, left me scratching my head. Another time the truck was grossly overloaded pulling a hill (pulling 2x over the max rating), the final time was a loaded heavy manual transmission vehicle and the driver didn't down shift, just mashed the pedal to the floor, this one was on the border of to hot but not in the red. Lets talk stock RV, in my opinion the to hot EGT's are a contributing factor to cracked exhaust manifolds, that and a lack of air circulation in the DP engine compartment. My coach loves to lug itself down on a hill, I manually downshift it every time, trying to save the manifold from the inevitable crack. Do I think a stock, running properly maintained RV could over temp, NO, it will get to hot for my comfort, anything over 1100 degrees is too hot for me. Modified diesel, different animal, they will get very hot very quick! I have modified many Diesel trucks for on road and off road performance, towing and pulling. Stock truck with my heavy foot couldn't get one hot enough to be a concern with an automatic transmission. Bill, still haven't connected mine yet, I've been busy building a MAXXFORCE 7 for a customer that came apart. EGR cooler failed bent two rods and flipped one piston sideways in the cylinder, no block damage, which is odd considering it is a 2 piece engine block .

Just upgraded from a 2003 Wrangler to a 2014 Wrangler 4 door and I have a few questions; 1. Light wiring, is there a plug and play type of kit or do I have to trace the harnesses and splice in diodes? Cant find much on the web. 2. Battery disconnect? We had a 2009 before and never unhooked the battery. Does anyone do this....any issues not unhooking it? 3. This jeep is an automatic (2003 was a manual), I haven't read the manual yet but it is a manual transfer case with neutral, keep the shifter in Park and the transfer case in neutral...I'm guessing? 4. Any do's and don'ts, recommendations from experience to share?