jleamont

Kay, we need a "Like" button on here. I am laughing at your post but you would have known that if I didn't comment.

Didn't know a dealer could make a braided SS hose, I know my local CAT/NAVISTAR Dealer cannot, they can only make the rubber hoses to supply a brake chamber. I will have to ask around. To install a dryer I would call CAT tech support and ask them what pairs with your engine/turbo etc, give them your serial number and application, they will lead you in the right direction. I know there are many variances so you want to get the correct one. I think that is a great idea to retrofit one into your coach.

Figured it out. Auto meter makes a gauge #3344 with a required extension module #5257 (specifically for Marine or Diesel Pushers so the gauge remains accurate through all of that extended wire) so the probe gets inserted in the turbo outlet pipe, module gets mounted back in the engine bay area (10' lead on probe) then you run 18 gauge wire up to the dash and install your gauge. Total out the door just shy of $300.00. The gauge is very similar to my factory gauges, I had to ask for a chrome custom bezel so it matches the rest of them.

On a computer controlled engine and transmission it would be hard to push it hard enough to run the EGT's up with an OEM tune. Mechanical engine I could see it more so than on a computer controlled, especially if it was a manual transmission. My old service truck was a 1996 Ford F350 7.3L Powerstroke with an ATS automatic behind it and 400hp 800lbft torque (Banks and Edge tuned over each other), Pulling my mobile PM trailer with a loaded service body truck my total combination was just shy of 20000 lbs, on a steep hill I couldn't over heat the turbo, the transmission would down shift rpms would go up and EGT's would drop. It had the Banks EGT gauge with the sensor in the down pipe right at the turbocharger. I am sure if it was a manual transmission and I was lugging it I could have achieved that, not with the automatic. The only time I have heard of a stock electronic engine with an automatic achieving this was with a defective VGT (variable vane) turbo. I run a "Scan Gauge" in the coach now, but there is no sensor for EGT in my coach and I do not believe EGT is an option with that system. I would need a gauge with an electronic sensor to route all the way up front and mount it in the dash like it came with it. I would have no problem doing it if I could locate a gauge kit that was a close match to the factory VDO gauges.

Bill, you have brought up a good point...EGT gauge. I do not have one on this coach and I have often thought about installing one, mostly in part so I know when its safe to shut it down. Since my engine is not altered or performance modified MY EGT's really shouldn't be a concern while driving but shutting it down when its too hot is a concern. I usually let it idle when I go into a CG to register, then a slight tip of the throttle to crawl to the site I was never concerned I was shutting it down too fast. Even after I pull into a site I will feather the brake pedal so the compressor kicks in and allow it to purge before shutting it down. I have just been a custom to having one and without it is a little concerning. Is there a gauge with an electronic sensor rather than the typical sealed copper tube design?

Blake good! Often overlooked on an RV. Rich, that line is on my to do list, I do not like the way it looks. I have to measure it first and call Monaco/Allied for a replacement, they used two different lengths on my coach depending where the dryer was mounted but Allied has no more information other than that, so I have to measure it to be sure.

Good point!

Kay, just curious...would that have Wedge type air brakes or S cam?

Rodger, I am glad you are on here. I by no means am I a "tire expert". Have installed many along the side of the road, in the shop etc..etc.. Doesn't make me an expert, just means I know how to install them safely with the proper tools thanks to a tire manufactures training that we were required to go through for OSHA. Questions like the one above I had never given thought to, same with tire pressures increasing while driving and more so on hot road surfaces. When I bought my first RV and TPMS system more information on the display became more puzzling and somewhat alarming, now I could see the pressures rise and began to panic. After a stop in route to CA from PA parked in the Mohave Desert in July I Googled it, pressures will increase while driving and the tires were made to do so. My panic was simple lack of knowledge. Since my old C was at its max GVWR on the steer axle and over on the rear (from factory) I had my tires set to the max PSI, when I saw them go over the max PSI on the TPMS I felt nausea, just waiting for one to explode, combined with the temp that day at 120 degrees, I was convinced we were not going to get out of there without a tire failure. Never had a problem. Thank you for clarifying what to look for and be concerned with and what not to be concerned with, to have an expert on here like yourself is very helpful, altitude is another one I would have never thought of until I saw something odd on the TPMS would I ever think of it.

My C didn't use an isolator, the switch on the dash energized a relay (looked just like a Ford Starter relay) to bridge the two batteries. When I bought it had an AGM for a house battery (12v single) and the factory wet cell under the hood for the engine. My battery light would come on while driving after a while (several hours) when the AGM went bad (3 years later) I switched over to two 6v wet cells, never saw that light again. The odd part was even with the light on it was charging at 13.5v. Class A we have now has an isolator.

Bill, you are so correct!! A credit card with lots of room and a few tools will get you by! Blake, forgot about those tools, although I have opened wine and soup cans with untraditional methods before

Blake how old is your dryer?

ObedB, the last coach I put LED lights in the rear and had the same problem, this coach doesn't care if they work or not still flash the same, well unless the ground is open anyway. Rich thanks, I tried to clean and reposition the contacts nothing worked (cheap way out). I'm going to be proactive and replace the other side tonight they both looked the same inside so why not.

I think at then end of the day you would want to bring tools that you are comfortable using and only attempt repairs you are comfortable in attempting. i.e. a volt meter if you are not comfortable working around electricity I wouldn't keep one on board, you would be likely to hurt yourself with it. I was told by a mechanic when I started in that business "a person can do a lot of damage with a screwdriver if they do not know how to use it" Wow was he right. Pick up the phone and call someone in to look at it when you are in over your head, some know that and accept it others will learn from the school of hard knocks.

Kay, WOW. you can keep those Bud wheels Bill, I also carry an assortment of prybars, forgot to mention that. I considered mounting an air compressor under the coach that runs off of 120vac. Since the compressor on the engine will not support air tools. Some times I go a bit overboard....I know. Since I owned a mobile truck service until February 2015 this type for work comes normal to me, the tools above (wheel removal) stuff was on my road service truck that I sold. The company that purchased it didn't want some of the tools, since I had duplicates (shop box and truck box) I put an assortment of goodies in the coach. Photo attached of service truck on the right side of the old motorhome.

Kay, I can relate.. Bill, this is the torque wrench I have (link below) plus a 3/4" Snap-On ratchet the ratchet with two different length handles (interchangeable handle ratchet head), the longest is 5' long 33mm socket (no Bud wheels) and an extension to reach in. I did a practice run in the driveway with the combination, it wasn't fun but it worked. My jack is a 20 ton bottle jack with an screw top adjustable ram. I figured I can throw some weight into it, I have enough excess do so https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Fixed-Ratchet-120-600-ft-lb-3-4-drive-P640969.aspx Ratchet head https://store.snapon.com/Ratchet-Heads-Sealed-chrome-3-4-quot--5-15-16-L-x-1-1-4-D-x-2-1-2-W-Sealed-Head-Ratchet-P636860.aspx

No, while ones charging you still have two more = more production . As my DW says "I thought you would be done by now, what's taking so long?"

I want to share a ghost electrical problem that intermittently comes and goes on our coach and the simple fix. On occasion when I turn on the headlights or marker lights, my right turn signal arrow on the dash would glow dim and I would loose the right rear turn signal in the back. As soon as I had an opportunity to investigate it was fine . Well it finally broke completely. When I turn on the marker lights and the hazards, none of the turn signal lights in the rear of the coach would blink, (the front signals would blink very slowly) the rear lights would come on bright (separate amber lights on our coach for rear turn). When the right turn signal was on, same result on the right side, left side worked fine. I figured I had a ground problem in the right turn signal circuit, so I pulled the right lens out, can't find a problem... scratched my head went to the front and as soon as I unsnapped the lamp from the lens it started to blink normally. I removed the LED bulb and replaced it with a regular 3157A bulb, and it worked fine, put the LED back in blinking slow again , hmm bad LED bulb? I swapped the LED bulb with the left front, it worked fine over there. Plugged the left LED bulb in the right side and it acted up again. It turned out to be a bad socket ground inside the socket, for some reason the standard light bulb worked and the LED didn't like it. One of those problems where you can't see the fault and I had a ground with my volt meter when I Ohm'ed it out. I removed the Ford socket with the attaching plug and replaced it with a splice in one piece socket (GM replacement part). $6.53 at the local auto parts store.

trkhelp, that was before my time, but I sure would love to read those old articles, that would keep me entertained for days. Too bad there wasn't a tab on here that went that far back.

I carry enough including a jack and torque wrench to pull a 22.5 wheel off but I do not have a spare tire I also carry this little Craftsman tool chest, a set of all different types of pliers and screwdrivers in their own plastic boxes, rescue tape, electrical tape, crimp tool, wire stripper and crimp connectors and a DVOM.

I travel to Maine/Mass 2x a year for work, I run 287 to 87 to 84 to 90 to 495 to 95 (north of Boston). I have run 287 to 95 and up (gets close to NYC), only a slight delay in CT New Haven have I ever experienced. You will never see me on 95 from Philly over the GW in NYC. The farther away from NYC the better off you will be, those routes can be hilly and boring but scenic.

Carl, I see the problem....CW was mentioned in the same sentence . DW has a book called "The Next Exit". The 2008 version was a real asset to have, we looked a later version in 2010 and every year since and that was bad. They redesigned the layout which made it not user friendly while headed down a highway (the old versions would flow, now you jump all around the book) and went to recycled pages which made brittle. When you have a good thing you need to stick with it!

YUP, and I always ask....

If I had to choose I would have an auto inflation system installed, one like the attachment. Where it monitors your pressures and adjusts accordingly. We run them at work, my concerns in the RV industry would make me shy away. The main reason is price, the other reason you cannot adjust according to your weights across an axle. http://www.meritor.com/products/brakes/trailer_mtis/default.aspx Article from Trucking magazine with some new technology headed out soon for drive axles. http://www.truckinginfo.com/article/story/2015/01/coming-soon-inflation-systems-for-drive-axles.aspx