jleamont

I saw these at Wal Mart last night for $12.97 per gallon just as Puff listed above. The rebate fine print only allows up to 4 gallons per household to get the rebate. Its tempting to switch over from Mobil to save a few $$

Carl, do you have a Blank tank flush port you can hook a hose to and rinse it out?

Agreed, 100%

Carl, we do the same with regards to tank emptying. I empty the Black every few days or when it hits 1/2. The gray gets dumped daily with 4 of us taking showers it fills up quick, usually first thing in the morning I go out side with my cup of coffee pull the valve and go sit under the awning and relax. Safer outside, just me and the dog while the hair dryers and hair spray is flowing, no place for me in there. My DW has the kids trained to take long hot showers, drives me nuts. Depending how long we are out we mostly use paper plates.

Please do....hu boy that will ne the next thing the DW has me do...

BennieH, I can relate to the "itch" we are having it here also in PA. Especially when most on here are headed to Perry....... without me... . I am completing projects I only was considering last year on our coach. wrap it up and go have fun with it...that's what its all about.

I saw a coach with them mounted on the wall, I cannot remember the make. I have also thought about it a few times and had our toilet apart in 2014 for a new valve. there is not a lot going on with those, pretty simple design. I cannot recall how many wires go to the switch either. If it were me I would verify they are all different colors, cut them mid way, add longer wires between each section, locate a suitable location for the switch, bring the extended wires to it and reconnect the switch. I would say the hardest part would be getting the wires from the toilet to where you want the switch, otherwise its just match the colors. In the end I guess it really depends on what skill level you have, tools and patience.

HA, I missed that, I thought I read it was an 8V71, missed the 8.2L.

BennieH, I feel your pain! The belt on the genset looks worse than it is. I removed the water pump pulley (4, 10mm bolts) removed the pulley from the pump with the belt, installed the new belt on the crank, then water pump pulley started the bolts by hand (had to use a punch to locate the bolt holes) and walked the pulley down evenly cross staggering the bolts as it tightened with a ratchet just to make sure I was pulling it down evenly). Rather than they way in the video of forcing the belt up over the pulleys. If you need any other help just ask on here. I just did a full generator service on my 7500 series Onan a few weeks ago. Still fresh in my mind.

Really, that's what it was invented for? interesting! I use WD40 or Power Lube now for the tow bar pivots, slides and hitch receivers, I refer to it all as "lube". I also will use CRC Power Lube, as I am running low I have been replacing it with WD40 since its readily available and I like the new can with the built in straw.

krankyoptimist, one thing to remember, keep you eye on the oil level. Those old Detroit's are known to be leakers, you can try to fix, perhaps yours is not due to the low mileage but we mechanics always told the drivers "if its not leaking you need to add oil". I am not sure if technology has improved on seals and gaskets for those or not, not even sure If I would worry about it, or try to correct if it was leaking, unless its easy to get to. There is nothing like the sound they produce, between the sound and the looks you will turn heads with her! I was watching a video the other night of a 12V71 in a Brockway running through the gears...I want one! Time to sell the Dune Buggy, lol

The one I put in is at 15.5 cu ft, not real big but larger that the 4 door Norcold. Our last coach only had 6.0cuft. we made it work, but it was a little tight. Might sound crazy but I like to grocery shop locally where we are staying, stuff you cant purchase at home is always attractive to us to give it a try. While passing through Texas in 2013 we stopped at a WalMart and bought these Tapatio Doritos, we loved them, cant get them up here. Since we love Cajun food and TexMex, when we head south we are always looking for stuff to take home, one benefit of traveling with a refrigerator/freezer.

HAHA, don't tell her that, it will be my home when I get in trouble. Our dog is spoiled, he stays inside, all 9 lbs of pure terror.

Grayed out because he uses them too often, lol

F442485, the belly pan has me confused, our two coaches cant be that different. My guess is you are referring to the Semi Monocoque chassis design, with the web of box tubes going all different directions when you look underneath and the covering just above those. They do not remove so I am certain you wire is running above that. It looks like you have almost the same chassis as I but a rear radiator rather than a side radiator. My battery bay is directly behind the passenger side rear wheel, open the door, release the locks and they pull out, top tray two chassis batteries, bottom 4 House batteries. The cables go straight out the back and disappear. Cannot speak to yours (or my current coach) but my old coach the ground went to the chassis frame and was bolted. I had a bad connection once at the ground, it just needed to be cleaned and re installed. I cant imagine your tank bay (if like mine) being in the way. My tank bay is on the opposite side of the same wheel (in front of it), I can only see all of the air lines and loom running above to the front. If Monaco is no help, try and follow those cables, you most likely will have to crawl under the coach to see them come out of the backside of the compartment. Just do it safely, make sure you support the coach with safety stands even if you do not have to lift it to get underneath. you could accidently grab an air line to pull yourself under and deflate the air bags. Or pull the floor in the rear and look over that direction and see if any large cables are bolted to the frame, you just might be able to see that area from the top.

I do not have a BlueOx bar, but that is almost the same procedure I follow. I also lube the pivot points at the main and where it slides into the coach to prevent rust build up in the coach hitch.

Mine comes out to ask me all the time if I need help, when I say sure I get the same question. I just smile and tell her "I got this, go pull the chairs out".

Yup, didn't do a thing....well the red light was flashing on the module, not sure what that meant normally it didn't.

Thanks Carl! I am slowly chipping away at the items in this unit that didn't suite our needs. My interior is complete. Once I loose the propane tank and think of what to use that large space for I will be done.

scole456, try the fuel filter as Herman suggested first (couldn't hurt) make sure its full of oil also (just in case the low oil safety is activated) follow the fuel line back to the tank and perform a good inspection on it. I had to replace the fuel line on my last coach, it cracked near the tank and was pulling air into the fuel line. That coach chassis was a 1997, it was cracked pretty bad, I suspect from age and ethanol mixed into the gasoline these days.

Beautiful coach! Take care of that it will last you a lifetime. I would be honored to camp near you with such a fine example of RV history sitting next to me. WOW

ObedB, after that mess I read up on them also. I always thought Dometic was not a concern, but that was wrong, they all have their problems also, so do residential units. At the end of the day any appliance can catch fire if plugged in to 120VAC, even an light or a hair dryer not in use. The absorption design has more ignition and fuel sources and as we all know "to the lowest bidder" isn't always the best route to take when sourcing components. We looked at a 2013 Fleetwood Excursion in April of 2014 (new leftover), it had a residential refrigerator in it from the factory, which was the first I had heard of it. I was taken by it at first, but then thought about it and it started to make sense, it was equipped with a GE, from memory it looked just like the one we installed, not sure if it actually was or not. After we did our conversion I had child safety locks on the doors just in case (they didn't pop open once) We went to Hershey RV show that September and I photo'd the different door lock designs that were in the new coaches with residential units, I fabricated my own and use it on ours. Our inverter is a Trace/Xantrex RV2012 modified sine wave according to the build sheet I have, and if it was replaced it still has a Trace unit in it (saw it the other day) According to them this model has more steps and a smoothing to be almost sine wave. I would love to scope it and see what it actually produces. So I called Xantrex I got the full story, they explained to me that running a refrigerator without all of the electronics was a good choice on my part, while it is not a sine wave its not as rough as a regulator modified sine wave. Obedb, you might want to call your inverter co and ask what they think.