jleamont

ObedB, Do you have full paint? If you get on the web and you see the guys post to rub it with Crisco, keep looking...... Still one of my favorites from Facebook, geeze. I have a product I bought from Hershey two-three years ago and used it on the old coach (gel coat, no paint) and it worked great, spray on wipe off. I will have to look around I might still have it (bottle was almost full). You are welcome to it if you want to give it a try.

Your Welcome! enjoy your motorhome!

The only reason I would not revert back is....if you do you just threw out the reason for the synthetic oil in the first place and wasted the money. The confusing part to most is there was a myth a while ago that they are not compatible. In short the synthetic products are just better refined, with more comprehensive additive packages over conventional oils. In the RV industry I consider the engines in a Gas unit working hard or in a more "Severe Duty cycle", considering this I would run only full synthetic oils in the powertrain (exception; transmission, Follow Fords Specific oil recommendation and product, this oil is like no other, you will know once you smell it ) your rear axle is equipped from the factory with full synthetic oil. Some manufactures recommend running full synthetic oil after your first oil change, they want fast break in. So at 5500 miles this is where I would begin my change over, understand it might take a few change intervals to get all of the oil residue out, but again no issues with it, you are at a good starting point. Has it ever had the oil changed before? You can tell by the filter, if it has a bar code sticker on a Motorcraft filter its the factory filter. Either way I would make the transition now, doesn't matter but just curious. I second Bills Grease recommendation, that is the product I use. The old saying comes to mind "pay me now or pay me later" high quality products now should make the "later" less painful or push it out farther. Double check the generator model and report back, you can call Onan at 1-800-888-6626 for their tech support to help you with an oil choice. I have in the past for coolant recommendations for ours and they were very helpful. Your factory fill was a synthetic blend, just in case you were wondering; https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-MotorOils.aspx Joe

epstep, two different answers, first what make/model generator do you have? Coach engine; (V10) I would use Mobil one full synthetic or Motrocraft OEM oil with a Motorcraft oil filter (Probably an FL820S filter) you can pick up a Motorcraft filter at any Ford dealer or Wal-Mart also carries them. I wouldn't recommend any other filter especially since you are most likely still under Ford warranty. Here is your oil and coolant spec and capacity: Item Specification Fill Capacity — — Motorcraft® Gold Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated VC-7-B (US); CVC-7-B2 (Canada) WSS-M97B51-A1 25.9L (27.3 qt) Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (US); Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil (Canada) XO-5W20-QSP (US); CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada) WSS-M2C945-A 6.6L (7.0 qt) with filter When Synthetics first came onto the market if you switched back and forth on occasion you would get an oil leak (late 80's early 90's, people blamed it on the oil switch over, but was it caused by that, who knows). I have made this switch before and never experienced any issues with newer engines, I wouldn't be concerned with what oil they previous owner used.

I had this one (link below) older version but it worked great. With the residential refrigerator and universal trays work fine. http://www.edgestar.com/IP210SS-Stainless-Steel-EdgeStar-Portable-Ice-Maker/IP210SS,default,pd.html

Ok, thanks guys. I was hoping for some real world experience. Hopefully the Intestate wet cells I have now (4, 6volts) will give me a few more years.

Hemigpa, welcome!

We have these from Kool RV. The previous owner had it outfitted with them over all wheels and windshield. http://koolrvsunscreens.com Positive: easy to install Negative: button snaps on the exterior of the body

I have given this some thought. Anyone running AGM house batteries? My experience with these was only in the chassis side and was very limited to meetings complaining about the performance. The issue my old employer had was AGM batteries discharge in stages not like a wet cell, and they experienced over temp issues during charging. They experimented with several different manufactures and those were the complaints. One in particular was when they would discharge in steps in stead of gradually. We had starters that would not respond with 11.5 volts on a DVOM, where a wet cell would crank slow and you might have some hope, the AGM left you stranded. As I said I have no personal experience with them. I have been considering switching when it's time and just wanted to hear real world experience in a house battery sitiuation.

Magnaflow muffler is now installed, I have to locate a new chrome exhaust tip tomorrow to finish it off. Original muffler had three holes in it the size of two fingers two were pointed up one pointed down and the mounting straps were cutting through it. It was hollow inside also, just with two 180 degree turns before exiting (exhaust path was an S inside) That should help keep temperatures back there lower. Sound; no louder than it was just a little more throaty sounding.

FIVE, that is surprisingly true.

Widewader, you can order the "goose eggs" and brackets from this website. http://www.kileymold.com/ I have one on the front and rear of our coach, proud to be a member.

Herman, I have seen a few with ratchet binders thrown around the trailer before at a CG in Maryland .....and a few that needed a ratchet binder wrapped around the trailer also to keep them in. Same place, we also watched a guy and his DW bring their slide in with two of them (trailer again), that was entertaining, especially with all of the cracking and popping sounds. ObedB, call Tiffin and ask them how to adjust it. I have often wondered how that is accomplished, I am sure someday I will need to know myself.

Five, same way I operate ours. I will turn the inverter on 10 minutes prior to unplugging the shore power, when we arrive at our destination after I connect to the CG power I turn it off, again if I remember. Usually its the next morning when I check the state of the battery charge I realize I left the inverter on standby. Ours operates the same, the on/off switch only controls the inverter, not the charger portion of the unit. After we purchased the unit I couldn't figure out how to turn the inverter on (button not labeled) I would press it until the light would blink and the generator would start, we ran 3 months with no inverter until I called Xantrex. Quick push of the button controls the inverter, press for longer than 3 seconds the generator will start/stop. DW reminds me of that day often

We have carpet and heated tile, I like the feel of the carpet but I will say when its time to replace it I will most likely not have carpet reinstalled. I will also heat the remaining area of the floor, I do not like cold feet.

Bill, I do that every time I walk into a parts store. Like a kid in a candy store.

jbrunson, I run into this often. Times have changed and the dealers have aligned their prices with the aftermarket in most instances. They want your business now more than ever.

Brett, if you do not have any luck locating them locally, here is a link where I purchased them from, you will have to call for these as they are not listed on their website. I ordered mine from https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/ Over a certain dollar amount the shipping is free. The Price on the FS1022 was cheaper from them also, especially with the free shipping. I just stocked up on others to get the free shipping, not hard to do when your air filter is $140.00

ObedB, send it over, sounds good!

John, most RV dealers have an assortment of these in stock, the last time I replaced one I photo'd it, measured the opening, went to the dealer and bought a replacement.

Brett, I use the FS1022 also as my Secondary filter. My primary is an FS1015B. You will most likely get the same response I got when I asked why are they so close in specs.

Bill, most likely you didn't get it all out, I am pretty sure you won't without pulling the outer bearing and sliding a small straw down in to the larger cavity within the hub with a suction gun attached. I would not worry about it, maybe change it annually if it concerns you the same way you just did it (without a full tear down). In the trucking world (same design) the oil only gets changed when a seal fails. Glad to hear you are already equipped, I was getting concerned on the condition of the grease if you had it.

Glad to see you posting again!!!!

Puff, I agree on the Fram, never crossed my mind to use their filter. When I was at the Utility co we had a filter cutter, (big can opener) we would periodically test different filters on a specific unit, sample the oil for each interval and open the filters. I remember opening one and the element inside was less than 1/3 of the can size and it looked like a piece of a cardboard box. Yup you guessed it it also produced the worst oil sample on the test. That was part of our cost savings initiative that we had to do for funding (attempt to lower operating costs).

I was leaning toward the same question....what does the manufactures sticker show for the front axle tire size? if it is a 315 OK. If not I would make it right with what they recommend, nothing more nothing less, same applies tot he duals in the back. I have seen many trucks with tire kissing from oversized tires in a dual position. I don't want to be near one on the highway let alone driving it.