Walt2137

Not the first one I have heard of also. In the early 2000's a Monaco Forum member of MCOA posted his Blue Ox base plate came all the way off, can't remember the damage but do remember he had no toad brake. I know it got to be a Roadmaster base plate come loose but I have never saw a post on that.

John whatever you use just remember if you have a rear radiator coach use the engine fan to help with getting the soap to penetrate into the CAC and Radiator and let it soak for a while, I have always waited at least 15 minutes then flush using the fan to help.

Sounds like a faulty brake light switch.

Brett according to my book a 07 Dakota V6 quad cab weight is over 4300 lb without 4X4 or the V8.

My coach came with a Lambert but when Mr Lambert died they were not availed my unit died and I installed a Trik L Start , it a cheap little battery keep it up with a 5 amp out and has worked as well as the lambert over the years.

Finally installed the ARPrv refrigerator protection control, it is a cheap insurance and easy installation on my gas/electric RV refrigerator, don't know why I didn't do it sooner . Check them out. http://www.arprv.com

Sounds like his dump Mac valve hanging open on the front

I can't answer for you but I had rather have a 10 micron filter in my hyd system than a 25. You can use a Donaldson P550698 and it's a 22 micron and I think it would work OK for you at 3.98 out side Dia , 1.43 inner Dia , length 5 inches.

The largest wire I can find in the cable between the RV and toad is a #12 supposedly on the Roadmaster and Blue Ox and its the middle wire, if you go with a larger wire for your charge wire you would have to tyrap it to the outside of the coil cable. I would try and check out the Camping World location real good before I would let them work on my car, I have read a few horror stories on Camping world installations, im sure not all are bad but just saying. One other toad charger to check out http://www.rvibrake.com/Towed-Battery-Charger-p/tbc-12014.htm

Kenny I assume you are talking about a Diplomat but not sure anyway the 12V vacuum gen will be on the firewall in the gen compartment but I would check for a blown fuse in the bay under the driver.

John I don't think I would tow it 4 down anymore, if I did to get home I would let the engine idle to lube the transmission . Solution to the dead battery would be a charge line from the chassis battery to the toad battery, I run one on all my toads.

Herman he doesn't need a neutral switch with the 2014 4X4 F150. We just have to go through a process that is explained in the owners manual real simple but I printed it out and had it laminated because it is more than one step and I don't remember as I once did. Chuck I use Roadmaster Brakemaster because of ease of transferring from toad to toad and it is a proportional brake system. I also use a tail, brake and signal light strip attached with 3M body tape to the bottom of my tail gate for toad lights, I plug to the truck trailer plug when not towing and to the coach lights when towing, cost under $30 on Ebay. Its a good toad easy to set up and get in the tow mode. I agree with Herman if you are going to keep the truck as a toad for a long time the M&G toad brake system in my opinion is the best out there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-LED-Chip-Rear-Turn-Signal-Strip-Red-Tailgate-light-For-Chevy-Pickup-Truck-/261538991690?hash=item3ce4f04e4a&vxp=mtr

What air leveling system do you have?

I suggest that you spray the manifold bolts for 2 or 3 days with a good penetrate and one of the best is a home made penetrate of 1/2 Actone and 1/2 trans fluid . Drilling a stud out of the engine block is no fun.

Herman I hope you have it because my drawings on our 2000 Dynasty has everything but the seats drawings. Walt

I agree with McBrian, I have never had a problem with the mileage when I trade, it is what it says and has not been tampered with. I have always removed the tow brackets and wiring, I now have quite a collection in my shop.

I towed a 2011 Edge for a while and never pulled a fuse but I did have a charge line easy to build one do a search, or you can buy a toad charger. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/TOAD-CHARGE-p/toad-charge-40.htm http://www.rvibrake.com/Towed-Battery-Charger-p/tbc-12014.htm Walt

I would be glad to but just for your info the John Johnson the guy that does the FMCA towing guide always gets approval from the factory before he post the towable on the towing guide.Contact me at walt2137@yahoo.com and I will send you a copy of the TSB. I found a simple solution to installing tow lights on our 2015 Soul, I removed the two red reflectors from the bumper and installed two Peterson V426KR round tail lights sealed water tight lights incased in a black rubber seal, they fit snug in the hole . Walt

I used Pressure Pro and bought them the year they came out with the system it worked flawless until the batteries got weak I then went to the TST 510 then the 507 and think the 507 works as good as Pressure Pro except in one area, the alarm on the TST 510 and 507 volume is so low I can't hear it and no way to increase it, for that reason I would suggest Pressure Pro.

The early 98 to 02 ISC CAPS fuel control engines did have problems on some of the engines, I have one that had the problem. The later HPRC engines solved that problem from 03 forward .Walt

I would agree that Blue Ox would be my choice because Roadmaster only has the XL (old style ) brackets for the 07 Honda and the round style arms are simpler and easier to install. Here is a url to the install instructions. http://assets.rigidhitch.com/Blue_Ox/BX2246.pdf Walt

Rich, I hope it helps Keith also as I have never done the reboot myself. This was a fix posted on the Monacoers board for one of the members 6 or 8 yrs ago that struggled with a issue similar to Keith's for a few months and was posting about the problem until a (his words) very smart Allison tec did the reboot and as far as I know his problem never came back. Keith keep us in the loop. Walt

Red I hope it's easier to get to than the 2000 Dynasty. I recently changed the heater core, about the same job as the evaporator is. I closed in the plastic cool box in the gen compartment on the firewall, my son had to lay across the gen (slide out) and I had to support his head so he could get to the furtherest bolts toward the passenger side also had to remove all the AC lines because the big ball of wiring harness was inter woven with the lines and we could not remove the cool box without moving the wires, so we did a complete AC service while doing the heater job. One pointer: be sure to put a shop fan on your condenser when you start to recharge the system to keep the temp down if not you will get a false hi pressure.

Keith remove the power from the Allison for 10 minutes and see if the reboot helps, I remember a 99 Dynasty that this cured a problem similar to yours when Allison failed to find the problem. Remove everything from both post of the chassis battery to reboot. Walt

Guys watch this on a RV that had a left front blow out as it was passing a 18 wheeler, the steel cable barrier that they have along I-10 looks like it helped with the roll over. It is super important to know your weight and inflate at or a little above spec, TPS are a wonderful safety tool especially on a RV. https://www.facebook.com/LouisianaStatePolice/videos/1097741173575805/