Lenp

I just removed a small section of diamond shield on my coach that had cracked and started to peel in places. It was on a 45 degree surface that ran the entire width of the coach. I used a high pressure washer and hit it from the side. Most of it simply peeled away. It did take the pain in some places, thus, I ended up sanding and painting. Fortunately, a local auto parts store had the capability to color match a rattle can for me and it now looks great. Total cost for the paint (primer, color and clear) was about $35. Plenty in one can to cover a 6"x102" area. Will I try to remove the rest of the diamond shield? - only if it gets real bad. Lenp

How long did it take to get down to 80? If 2-3 hours I think your existing unit is doing a good job. I always try to start my AC BEFORE the inside temperature gets too high. Typical AC system will have a temperature differential of 20-24 degrees (intake to outlet) and with the volume of air inside a motorhome, it will take a while to drop from over 100 to the mid 70s. I would think long and hard about a second unit. A larger one, maybe not a bad idea assuming the existing one is original. Lenp

My 2013 Edge manual says the 2.0 CANNOT be towed four down. The 3.5 can be towed four down using the D-R-N and run for five minutes. What did Ford change between 2012 and 2013? Lenp

Not sure how your Winnebago is plumed but mine (and many others) has one (of two) bathroom sinks connected to the black tank. Winnebago wisdom says you need LOTS of water in the black tank. And they make sure of it! Once you have dumped both gray and black tanks get yourself a clear elbow and attach it to the dump outlet. Then open just the black valve and turn on water in each of your sinks and showers (one at a time) and see if any of them are draining into your black tank. Mine has a sink in the "hallway" that drains into the black tank. The sink in the stool room, shower and kitchen all drain to the gray tank. Lenp

Glad you got it fixed and THANKS for sharing the "fix" Lenp

The photo you posted is of a CONVERTER. This unit does not supply 120VAC to your coach. It provides 12 volts to charge batteries and run the 12 volt 'stuff' line frig control board, water heater ignition, lights, etc. Never have owned a Damon coach but I suspect you have another GFI outlet someplace that is tripped. Do you have an inverter that supplies 120 VAC when not plugged in or running the generator? If so, there may well be a breaker on it that is the culprit. Guarantee it is not the Progressive Dynamics unit that is causing the problem because that is ONLY used with 12 volts. It does require 120 VAC input (shore power or generator) though. Lenp

Seems like the long way to me. I prefer north on 285 north through Roswell and continue on to I40 and then west to Albuquerque. Not much for hills and pretty straight. Lenp

THe PD9145A is a CONVERTER. It converts 120VAC to 13.6 VDC to charge your batteries and power the 12 volt circuits in your RV. You will need to add an INVERTER to convert 12 VDC (battery voltage) to 120VAC. Use caution in selecting your inverter. There are "modified" sine and "pure" sine wave inverters. Some appliances do not like the modified sine wave inverters. Also make sure you choose one with adequate power to supply your devices and connect them to the battery bank with cables capable of handling the current required. Remember, 10 amps at 120VAC is equivalent to 100 amps at 12 volts. Lenp

Until you can get actual weights, inflate to the max weight/pressure on the sidewall of the tires OR as Herman said. DO NOT reduce pressure until you are absolutely sure of weights. Lenp

Suggest you also write a review on the http://rvservicereviews.com/Index.asp site Lenp

Could you simply install a charge line from the coach to the toad to keep the battery charged all the time? that is what I did to my F150 after running the battery down one night when I left the auxiliary brake connected. Lenp

Could also be a bad connection upstream from that outlet. Is the outlet that is not working a dedicated outlet for the converter only or is it part of a chain on outlets? If it is dedicated I would plug something else into that outlet (drill, toaster, etc.) and see if it works. If it doesn't measure the voltage at the outlet when something is plugged in - I would venture a guess it is not 120 volts. A bad connection anywhere back to the panel (or even pedestal) can cause this problem. You didn't say what kind of rig you have. Is it 30 amp or 50 amp? If it is 50 amp when you plugged into a different outlet you may have been on the "other" 120 volt leg (you may have a bad leg at the pedestal). Good luck, Lenp

Had a similar problem on mine last year - they would park in the middle of the window, would not run continuous (only single sweeps). We had been in HEAVY rain for hours. The next day they worked fine. Suspect the control box (in compartment under the driver side front) got a little too moist and went crazy. So not always a motor fault. Lenp

Make sure your motorhome is rated to tow a truck that heavy (6-7000 pounds???). Most gas motorhomes are limited to 5000 pounds. Lenp

My coach has a BIRD relay installed from the factory that will charge BOTH battery banks from any source. As I understand it, the BIRD monitors the voltage on both banks and if/when one gets to a voltage somewhat higher than the other charging voltage/current will pass the second bank bringing it up to the same level as the first. See http://www.discoveryowners.com/bird.pdf Lenp

Check your ground connection(s) as well as the battery connections.

I am a little late to this discussion but will throw my two cents in..... I too used Street Atlas for years and was very happy with it. Recently switched to a Garmin and really like it. Garmin offers "Base Camp" route planning software free. I use it to plan routes with many stops and vias and then download it to the device. Seems to work very well after three years of use. Free map upgrades for both the device and the PC software. Lenp

I use truck stops when possible due to issues getting 65 feet of house and pickup maneuvered into and out of some stand alone stations. I too, have issues with pumps shutting off - even at smaller stations. Using the truck lanes and the large nozzles only allows a small area for air to escape - the fill tube is close to the same diameter as the nozzle. Slowing he delivery AND holding the nozzle at a 90 degree angle prevents (or minimizes) the premature shut off on my coach. That is probably due to the "bends" in the inlet tube/hose. I also notice it shuts off less if I open the fill cap on the opposite side but (as mentioned earlier) can lead to a fuel spill so I avoid that.

Not unusual to trip a 30 amp breaker if your running both air conditioners (and the frig, water heater, microwave, converter). Most of us only run ONE major appliance when on 30 amp service. Lenp

Have you checked ALL of your chassis battery connections? grounds included! Lenp

As described above, 2012 and later F150s have the ability to place the transfer case in neutral by switching from 2WD to 4Low five times. This was introduced in 2012. I had 2011 and could not flat tow it so traded to a 2012. Lenp

My 370 in a 2002 Winnebago has a 165 degree thermostat and it will run right at 165-170 all day long on flat ground or small hills (even when it is 105 outside). If I let the transmission do the "thinking" it will run up to 200-210 real quick on a long climb. I ALWAYS downshift to keep the engine RPM between 1800 & 2000 RPM when in the hills. You MUST keep air flowing through the engine (not just the radiator) to keep these things cool. If there isn't enough air flowing the exhaust temperature will climb and subsequently the water temp will also rise. Lenp

YES you can pump your own diesel in Oregon - I do it all the time. You may run into a station that insists they do it but that is station dependent. Recent legislation even allows pumping your own gas at remote (small) towns after hours. Lenp

These basement units can cool the incoming (return) air about 20-24 degrees when both compressors are running. Measure the temperature at the return and compare that to the temperature at the first air outlet. If it is in the above range the unit is working as intended. Key to keeping cool is starting the air BEFORE it gets too hot in the coach. Some people have had problems with the duct work coming up inside the rear end cap. It can separate resulting in loss of cool air. Lenp

Could it be that you have depleted the air pocket at the top of the tank? If so, there may be too much pressure in the tank and the equalizing valve is trying to do it's job when it shouldn't have to. There should ALWAYS be some air at the top of the tank to allow for water expansion as it heats. You can replenish the air pocket by either (1) draining a small amount of water from the tank via the drain plug or (2) draining your hose completely and then reconnecting it and turn the pedestal valve on and then going into the RV and opening a hot water valve someplace. The air in the hose will travel to the hot water heater and stay there (most of it anyway). Lenp