desertdeals69

I wouldn't use a router, I use an oscillating multifunction tool which is not so messy and more precise. By cutting down about a quarter of an inch at a time and peeling out the wood you can see what if anything is hidden. I have done this type of repair in RV's many times.

I have done this type of repair. Don't use a circular saw, use a multifunction tool with a straight blade and you can plunge cut and make square corner cuts. Draw a line outside of the rotten part and it is easiest to make it square or rectangle so fitting a new piece is easier. Cut down about a quarter of an inch and peal out that layer of wood. If you are lucky the rot will have not gone all the way through. There may be foam insulation sandwiched between two layers of wood. Just rebuild the thickness to a flush floor.

I have driven 40 foot coaches that do not ride as well as my modified 32 footer. As far as engine and transmisson upgrade I installed a ISB 275 and Allison 3060 which is not the fastest up a hill but gives me 11 mpg towing a 1/2 ton silverado.

I would cut out as much of the rotten wood as possible and then replace it with exterior plywood.

KOA is in Pigeon Forge.

We have stayed at Eagles Nest campground for 2 to 3 months at a time the last 4 out of 5 years. Very reasonable rates and friendly people.

We have a 32 foot Coachmen diesel pusher for the last 13 years and 120,000 miles. I've done some modifications to the chassis and upgraded engine and transmission. When it was stock it handled well but was lacking in power because it was an early 5.9 cummins.

With regard to the dump fee I had a conversation with a FJ rep and asked him to explain why they started charging for dumping. He said that alot of sewer systems that they are tied into have started charging a surcharge for rv waste because it took extra processing because of the chemicals we put in the tanks. He sited one city that was charging $30,000 a year extra, over and above the standard usage rate and that seems to be more and more common. $5 seems like a small charge.

Be sure to pan for gold when you get to Chicken.

The air space at the top of the tank is there for a reason. If you fuel the tank full to the top and don't drive and the weather is hot as the cool fuel heats up it expands and will over flow. Fuel that is in the storage tank under ground is rather cool.

Have you checked the fuse on the relay? I had a blown one onetime and it took me some time to find it.

If the steel is structurally sound I would use the same black adhesive/sealer that they use to install windshields on a fiberglass front cap. I had two new windshields installed this summer and they used a material from a caulking gun that resembled black silicone. Since it is black I would not reinstall the t moulding just fill the gap to be flush with the glass and fiberglass.

It was in the late 70's. Had a 28 foot Pace Arrow. All of the plumbing and water tank were on the inside. What did freeze was the holding tanks. We tried adding rock salt with limited success. When we went to Salt Lake we spent a night in the campground and put 2 large electric heaters on the ground facing up to the tanks and they were thawed out by morning. As I recall the temps were 10-20 degrees. We went for 3 years.

Years ago when we went skiing at Park City we would park in the parking lot for 6 or 7 days, We reduced the propane consumption by half by insulating the windows with 1/2 styrofoam purchased at the hardware store. I cut it with a kitchen electric knife to the shape of the window frames and pushed them in place. Also did the front from the ceiling to the dashboard. After 6 or 7 days we would go down the mountain to Salt Lake City to dump and then go back up for another week.

When retorqueing lug nuts be sure to loosen the nut then bring it up to torque spec.

I used Toyo tires for 10 years, 2 sets, and didn't realize how much smoother Michelins rode until I changed to them. I had Toyo m124s 235/75-22.5. Now I have Michelins 245/80-22.5. The Toyo is more of a truck tire with stiffer sidewalls.

In the desert southwest we have "goats heads." Hard on humans with bare feet as well as pets.

As far as exterior light sockets go, I have been using DC4 compound for at least 55 years.

With regard to the corrosion in the picture, I have tried various treatments to prevent the buildup. About a year ago I discovered a couple of products made by CRC. One is a terminal cleaner and the other is a spray coating which dries and had a red tint to it. Unlike grease which attracts dirt buildup, my terminals and cables are clean for over a year.

I installed Toyos when I went from 19.5 to 22.5. I've gone through 2 sets in 10 years. Now I'm using Michelins with a much smoother ride. The Toyo side wall is stiffer because it is a truck tire.

I use the original lights on the vehicle. No need to add extra lights and run extra wire the full length of the vehicle. We have done this installation on many tow cars for our customers.

We prefer to travel alone or with 1 or 2 other coaches. I like to stop when I want and go when I want. The money we save by not going with a tour group buys our fuel. We spent 2 months doing Alaska and Canada. Went to Burnaby and checked into a campground for 10 days. On the second day the campground shuttle took us to the cruise dock to board the ship for a 7 day cruise to Alaska. On our return the shuttle picked us up and brought us back to the campground. When we left we went north to the start of the Alcan highway. Went to Fairbanks Sam's Club and joined about 60 other RV's in the parking lot for the night. Toured the state for a month and left going through Chicken. Dry camped all the way. At Soldotna there is a Fred Meyers that has a mini campground in the parking lot with a dump station.

Back in the 70's we traveled through all of the lower 48 states twice in 3 1/2 years with 2 gas motorhomes, each with 440 Dodge engines. Never found a highway we couldn't run on. Average mileage about 7 mpg. Now we've "grown up" and have a 32' diesel pusher. It's highly modified to suit our needs. We tow a Silverado p/u and get 11 mpg going coast to coast. One of the advantages of a diesel is the exhaust brake. We've gone down 8-10% grades and never had to use the brakes. We talked to one fellow in Alaska that had a gas coach and he said he would have to come to almost a complete stop at the top of a steep hill so he could put it into low gear and the go down the hill at 10-15 mph or it would run away too fast. If he tried to use the brakes, they would fad and the pedal would go to the floor. Not a comfortable feeling.

When we did Alaska in 01 we found that 30-45 mph was about as fast as we could go because of the roads.Gravel and dips controlled the speed.

Direct TV uses five satellites, 99, 101, 103, 110, and 119. I prefer the Moto Sat for Direct TV HD.