desertdeals69

I am not aware of a roof top inmotion dome that will receive any HD.

Wet sand and buff.

For the most part domes do not receive HD. You need open face with multi LNBs to receive HD.

It should have its own fuel line and pickup in the tank which does not go to the bottom so you can't run the tank empty on the gen. It should have a fuel filter next to the pump.

I use and recomend Roadmaster products. I think they build the best tow bars. They service all Roadmaster tow bars free of charge at the national rallys. They also build sway bars, brake systems and a host of other products.

Bill, it's component cable, red, blue, green, for HD, not composite, which is yellow. Also audio requires red and white cable. HDMI is the best choice because it's the only cable required for everything.

Its probably not the motor because if it runs one direction it will run the other. It's a perm magnet dc motor and reversing the polarity will make it run the opposite direction. It might be a control relay.

The K&N filter is a direct replacement housing and filter, same size as the oem filter. The inside filter media is cleanable and reuseable for about 300,000 miles. The intake system I built is the tubing from the outside of the coach to the filter which is located in the engine compartment. desertdeals69 is my handle. No, I do not sell K&N filters. I do beta testing for a number of RV products, this filter is just one of the items.

Bill, The analysis was done by Blackstone and was very complete. No dirt, fuel, or antifreeze. The oil is Rotella T6 synthetic and had 12,600 miles on it with 8,000 on it with the K&N. I have never changed my oil yearly in over 400,000 miles of motorhoming in 36 years and 10 motorhomes.

When I changed the filter to the production unit it was reading 10. A standard filter was slightly higher with the same mileage. I built the air intake system using 6 inch tubing with air entering at the top rear driver side.

They do have a different material. You can read about it on their website. The fact that I got a clean bill of health on the oil analysis leads me to believe that it is doing a good job. Have you seen the recomendation from Cummins that they are against the K&N filter because when I had a meeting with the engineering department and I had mentioned it to them they said they could never get a statement from Cummins.

I have been testing a K&N filter on my ISB 275 for 2 years. It was a pre-production unit. Went 8,000 miles and had the oil analyzed and came back with a good report. I just installed one of the first production filters. They are now available from K&N.

Is that a variable speed pump? Flowjet had problems with their electronics which controls the speed of the pump. If you have to change the pump Shurflo has a new model that looks good.

3 M has one of the finest kits out there. When you run out of the buffing compound you can use Alcoa aluminum polish, works perfect.

They sell a cheater with one 30 and one 20 plug at the FMCA conventions. I made my own.

You answered your own question in the next to the last sentence. The circuits are not combined. Just think of it as two separate rv's plugged into the same pedestal. One plugged into the 30 and the other into the 20.

I have used the setup with gfi and it works just fine.

One of the advantages with my changing to 50 amp is that with a cheater box I can run my rear air off of 15/20 amp outlet. A lot of pedestals that have only 30 amp also have 15/20 amp along side with separate breakers.

I installed a Aero stainless steel straight thru muffler with 4 inch in and out. Used a 4 to 3 reducer on the inlet. The Aero is shorter so there is plenty of room for it.

Herman, Somewhere above 12 oz. Rotate tire 180 degrees on the wheel and re-spin. I have seen 20 oz out. The larger the tire the higher weight may be. The Centramatics balance the tire, wheel and the hub and drum, I just balanced a pair of front drums that were between a 1/2 and 3/4 lb off.

I would mount an additional receiver under the original one and also mount castors on or near so that the receiver doesn't hit the ground. The more in line height wise the better. Angle mounting the receiver does not change the force that is present. It will work but the moving parts will wear somewhat faster. Its a leverage thing.

I have had Centramatics I my coach for 10 years and they work. I have a computer balancer which I bought the adapters for 22.5 wheels, When I change tires I spin them on the balancer and check how far they are off. If they are off a great deal I rotate the tire on the wheel until I get the minimum off balance. This makes the Centramatic work better as there is a maximum unbalance that they can compensate for. As for speedo calibration some have switches on the back for calibration, also the ecm can be reset for tire size and revs per mile. This is necessary if using a monitor such a Road Relay or Scan Gauge.

If we are talking about front engine mh the easiest way to cool the engine compartment by dozens of degrees is to cut two vent holes through the sides, one on each side at the top rear of the wheel well. The problem is not the amount of air coming in but rather the amout of air that can leave the area. Since I was in the boat business as well as the rv business I used a bilge vent made of ss, which was a lovered fin housing which required a 2x5 inch cutout. What this does is allow the hot air to escape that is trapped in the upper corner of the wheel well because of the centrifical air being blown off the rotating tire. I used to turbocharge the 440-3 Chryslers and the heat build up was very high. This is what we did to combat the problem. The latch hardware on the doghouse would burn your stocking feet. After the mods the hardware was cool to the touch.

It's floating with a cork backing.

Because when you are sitting still gravity is what causes the liquid run downhill. If the refrigerator is not level the liquid will not be flowing to the burner area. When you are moving it is just fine because of the motion.