rayin

Mine has a switch on the side of the plastic fixture, which is actually a TT porch light repurposed.

The 120VAC heating element is just a huge resistor actually. Replacements are universal, nothing RV-specific, 2 versions are made, buy the same length. I bought my last one from Menards. Which brand and model of WH? There are 2 brands Atwood and Dometic, each has several different models. One brand uses only one thermostat for both electric and LP, the other has once for each heating source. You can download the service manual, and all your appliance service manuals from:: https://myrvworks.com/manuals/

Nearly all air springs have a part # number on them, the difficult part is the sticker is on the end of the air spring. That means one would have to be removed to view the part #. If you join https://www.monacoers.org/ The group has an extensive library and a wealth of knowledge among the members.

Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums!!! Return often and just chat if you want. We even have a forum for chatting. First, check to insure your coach is receiving shore power. If you have the capability working with electricity, remove the main panel cover and test the main breakers for voltage with a VOM or even a non-contact voltage tester,(not as accurate but safer). If you don't the next check is the ATS=automatic transfer switch, check for power at the ends of the shore power cord. If you have power at the main panel main breakers, but no power at any outlets in the RV, check for loose connection screws, both pos. and neutral.

I checked the Ridge reservations website last night, price was $108/night for pull-thru.

Ceiling ductwork. It is an RVP (ColemanMach) 24,000btu basement unit. Inside, the only sound was chilled air exiting the ceiling ductwork and my genset running. RVP now makes and sells a universal unit to fit where their old 5 models were used, the universal unit is a 46515 model. Then if needed they sell the adaptive ducting to match the coach OEM ductwork.

Mine is attached with SST wood screws, there is no metal embedded in the fiberglass rear cap; weight limit 300#. I suspect the weight limit is because the ladder curves over the roof and is mounted to roof. So weight is a straight downward force onto the roof.

I took my time and pulled out my basement heat pump. That involved buying a new hydraulic lift table from Harbor Freight ($299) to support the unit and move it some for better working access. Hired a mobile RV tech to help me pull it and do the heavy work. Then I replaced the PC board and compressor relays and all 6 capacitors. Removed the indoor fan and outdoor fan, oiled the motor bushings, then checked for wear/play and oiled the pillow-block bushing. Put everything back together and IDFM would not run, just hummed, that turned out to be my fault, mis-wired a cap. Started it up successfully yesterday, and it runs better than I've ever noticed, even pull 2A less after running for 30 minutes than it did before I did the work. Total expense was near $1,000,($600 to RV tech) but if it lasts another 23 years I'll not be around to know. FWIW, a new replacement RVP 6515 heat pump costs $4,500- $5,000 today. Best part_ I still don't have to listen to noisy roof-top units, I can't hear the basement unit running unless nothing else is running, and that only in the bedroom.

Brand and model of roof-top units? The specs for your MH show it has 2 15,000btu roof-top units. Have you tested the 120VAC receptacle for the A/C unit for power? Some thermostats are powered by the A/C unit, no power to unit, no power to 'stat. More information please, otherwise we are guessing.

I agree. Most gas MH's have an extended frame behind the rear axle. That's how different length coaches can be on the same wheelbase. While the hitch proper can probably stand up to the extra 800-1,000#, can the frame extension??? That is not something I'd be willing to bet my family's safety on.

I know of no RV mfgr. that provides limits, or approves of dynamic loads on OEM roof ladders; they only address static load limits. Keep in mind the fastening screws are screwed into fiberglass, not wood or metal.

Use this tire size calculator to match your OEM tire size to another size with the same dimensions: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

FWIW, in electrical terms closing a circuit means completing the connection, opening a circuit means breaking the connection.

I you want a cheap GPS for truckers, which included height, weight, length, number of axles, etc., I bought an OHREX Chinese brand off Amazon for $79. It says map updates will arrive on an SD card in the mail???? I've never received on in 3 yrs. but at that price I consider it a throw-away device. Mine has always been accurate, but it's clunky to use compared to my Rand McNally RV GPS.

The video appears like the fan is blowing coolant through the radiator. Is there more than one cooling radiator in the "sandwich? There normally is the engine coolant, transmission cooler, CAC, and hydraulic oil cooler(power steering-etc), all together in a sandwich arrangement. All but the CAC contain liquids.

Norcold and Dometic absorption refrigerators must be near-level to operate. They both say if you are comfortable living in the RV their unit is likely level enough. Norcold's actual limits are 6° front-to-back, 3°side-to-side. Outside those limits the cooling unit is slowly and accumulatively being damaged, and if continued, will eventually fail. This has nothing to do with a sensor, it is the gravity flow of the heat transfer solution that is blocked when out of level.. This gives you an idea of how it works.

What is MSPN? The original tires were 245/70R 19.5G. There are not many mfgrs. of that size, I think Michelin is the only mfgr. actually, but there are alternate sizes of the same diameter and load range available. Your chassis is a Ford F53 truck chassis, it's going to ride like a truck.

I would suspect there's still a break in that wire somewhere, or bad connection, even a faulty switch.. It's time to get out your VOM and begin testing. I''d begin with the that fuse holder then follow the wire, wiggling it as you go to expose and breaks under the sheathing. Bill is right, batteries act as a filter to smooth out any variations from the charger, and if just one cell is bad the battery no longer acts as a filter.

In the city I suspect a licensed electrician is required, and perhaps a permit.

This is the CA website with current information: https://cwfis.cfs.nrcan.gc.ca/maps/fw Also this for Hwy 97: https://www.drivebc.ca/mobile/pub/events/Highway97.html

Concerning age of tires and storage; this is very informative although published by a law firm. https://wfirm.com/tires-expire-in-six-years/