rayin

Supposedly RV tires are made with more additives to protect them from ozone and sun rays, but only when they are in use. During long-term storage MIchelin says those chemicals are not being released from the tire compound; which is why they crack. Personally I'm running Sailun truck tires, before them I ran Goodyear truck/RV tires, and I've never noted any difference in ride, handling or wear.

Thanks Don! i'll do that Monday, the website seems designed by and for a expert to use.

Those are automatic-reset circuit breakers, if you have 12V on both terminals of both circuit breakers they are OK.

I think I found it; it doesn't say anything about the hard copy it asks a question. "do you want a digital edition?" I selected "no". And I do not, I cannot read online magazines with such tiny print or scroll a page to read a sentence.

I can't return to that webpage today. It listed different pricing for digital and paperback editions. I may have been on something about advertising fees, I don't know. I still haven't found where to request paperback magazines on the website. It seems at 80 my internet skills are declining along with my health.

Surprise, Surprise! Now I've got to pay extra to read the magazine digital, and much more to get the print version. Apparently all the advertising in the magazine isn't close enough to pay expenses. If I must buy it, then it should be free of advertising.

I was trying to log directly in to the magazine website from a separate tab instead of from the main website. I'm good, thanks Pamela and Don. Now to find out why I'm not getting my snail mail edition as I'm signed for. My eyes are not good enough to read my monitor screen without special glasses,(not a priority) I'm borderline glacoma and use eyedrops to keep it in check.

I anticipate my Norcold 1200LRIM to fail any day, but it's 24 years old so who knows it may last forever if I continue to follow the operating instructions.

That only leaves one thing, new element is faulty.

I haven't been able to sign into the magazine website since renewing my membership even though I can sign in everywhere else; why?

RVLife.com is of course designed for RV specific use. Another app is TruckerPath, which is for commercial OTR truck, with vehicle specific height,weight, length settings like rvlife.com, but it hasn't the RV RV parks and other such information.

The 120VAC heating element is nothing special, the same overall length element from any hardware store is the same item. I think your old one had a gasket, did you scrape the mating surface before installing that new one? I think mine had a fiber gasket instead of rubber/neoprene. That would have to be a special compound if made of rubber, because the water reachs a temperature of 140°F. The thermostat is a snap disc t-stat. Opens at 140*F and Closes at 110*F for heating cycle. (ECO -HI Temp Opens at 180*F/Closes at 150*F)

One thing not addressed is operating conditions. Norcold has limits on how level the unit must be to prevent the cooling unit from overheating and self-destroying. That limit is 3° side-to side and 6°front to back, as looking at the refrigerator door. Operating outside those limits the boiler temperature can easily exceed 700°F within a matter of minutes. To read all about how and why this happens, go to https://www.arprv.com/

I would suspect the first compressor failed sending metal fragments throughout the closed system. When the second compressor was installed, if they did not also flush the system and replace the dryer unit, it could have allowed said metal fragments to destroy the new compressor.

It is actually wired in series/parallel.2, 6V in series makes 1 12V battery connected in parallel to a second set, which in turn is connected the same way to the 3rd set of 6V batteries. This is the correct routing, however you will have a 2nd set of pos. and neg. cables leading to the inverter. What makes it confusing is, one battery in each group of 3 must be wired together to make 1, 12V battery, then the remaining 2 in each group are wired together to make another 12V battery. After washing away some dirt, I'd identify those 2, 6V batteries making 1, 12V battery. That will make it easy to identify the 3rd battery in each group. I would use a continuity tester to identify the series cables that go from neg. to pos.., marking them as I identified each one. Those cables that do not have continuity when tested at both ends are likely cables the other 3rd battery or to ground or inverter, positive cables with no continuity either go to engine or inverter and those can be identified with a continuity tester or a tone generator if the other end is not evident.. That's as much as I can see in your pictures It is a good thing you are approaching it this way, if you just began unhooking cables it would be a real puzzle to get all the cables correct. I hope this reads better than I suspect it does.

I would decline for the above stated reasons. Then after the factory warranty expires, re-visit the subject. If you roll that ESC into your vehicle loan you will be paying interest on that $5,500 for the entire term on the loan. That will make the ESC very expensive indeed. Dealers finance dept. tries to sell several different products that add to the loan amount, NONE imo are worth the expense. After the factory warranty expires, and if you decide to purchase an ESC, contact wholesalewarranties.com and Good Sam ESC to obtain pricing. I had a good experience with GS ESC during the 6 yr. term of the contract; however the MH we bought had been stored in a barn for 8 years untouched so we thought it prudent to purchase an ESC, but not through an RV dealer. Speaking of which, it is a contract with terms and conditions that must be met when a claim is filed, or the claim is denied. By law it is not a warranty, but rather a contract for services.

Yes Ross that's why it is important to adhere to the specific owners manual for the system installed. There is a link to the specifics within that HWH FAQ webpage.

Ross is right. HWH specifies their oil or the type ATF specified in your owners manual. Different years specify a different ATF, for instance newer units call in Dextron III or IV, but my 1999 HWH leveling system calls in type A ATF (Ford). Do not use hydraulic jack oil! Reference: HWH FAQ page Other brands of leveling systems have their own specifications.

That almost sounds like his browser settings are too strict to allow the Invision software access to his browser. Yes a different browser might get different results. I have FF latest update with default settings. My opinion of the forums is, yes they have been really slow since Herman passed.

This Bendix air brake handbook will explain in detail how the air dryer works, why it is required, and how to maintain an air dryer. Yours may not be Bendix brand, however they all work the same and are maintained the same; with the exception of replacing the desiccant dryer/filter. Since RV'ers do not drive the miles daily to require replacing the dryer/filter annually, replacing it every 3-5 years on a RV is adequate. This does not eliminate the requirement to manually drain the compressed air storage tanks prior to each drive. If moisture is allowed to accumulate and work its way into the braking system it gets expensive quickly, not to mention the possibility of losing braking ability. You might want to check out the FMCA diesel club, which contains a lot of valuable information particular to diesel pusher motorhomes. BTW,. on a Spartan chassis the air dryer unit is on the starboard side of the MH nearly opposite of where the Freightliner unit is located. update: I forgot to mention the most important part of maintaining air brakes, the daily air brake check.

Have you reported your experience with that company to the BBB and local chamber of commerce?

I've stayed at CG's were the pedestal breaker was at a remote location, so I turn off my main breaker in the RV first to eliminate any loads then plug into the 50A receptacle.

Diesel engines work by heat, in fact they were originally called a heat engine. Anyway, look up the ignition flashpoint of #2 diesel fuel. A diesel engine combustion stroke must produce at least that temperature by compressing air until that happens. The Cummins grid heater heats the intake air just prior to entering the combustion chamber, in warm/hot weather it may only cycle once to warm incoming air enough to promote instant ignition when fuel is injected into the combustion chamber at the top of the piston stroke. When working properly the grid heater will cycle at least once with each cold start below 60°F. You can check to see if the grid heater is coming on prior to startup by removing the battery cable from the solenoid, taping the end and tying it out of the way temporarily. The Cummins B6.7 grid heater draws approx. 205A when cycling.

Bill all I had to do was stay home. I was still working then and going to work regardless of temperature was the norm. I worked 7 miles from our house so the 5.9 barely got warmed up and I was there. The Cummins ISB 5.9 in Dodge pickups was great, but Dodge derated the engine to 180HP to keep from destroying the Dodge automatic transmission, so it was a dog towing over a 35' 5er.

I agree with previous replies. My old Dodge CTD 5,9 did that every time, but it always started in below 0°F weather..