rayin

I did until Linda lost interest, still have them underneath my driver seat JIC she inquires. Happy wife, great life.

The anode rod (Atwood brand does not use an anode rod) should be replaced when it is 1/2 gone/eaten away. That normally happens at least once a year, especially if you leave water in the tank during storage. When you remove both drain plug and over-pressure / relief valve, use an water heater flushing rod to clean out the bottom of the tank, you may add more water via the pressure relief valve opening too for additional aid in flushing.

Welcome to the discussion forums! I'm too late, the horse is out of the barn already; you now know the reason to never lift the rear wheels off the ground. The rear wheels keep coach from moving when parked and jacks are down.

When our TriMark remote system died, Camping World replace it with the newer version. The new key fobs have the basement door button, however we have no electric compartment locks. Wayne, after losing the TV antenna to tree limbs one time, DW bought me these steering wheel reminder slappers from rvminders.com. I think she also reminded me I'm old.

Back at you Carl, and everyone! Happy Christmas and Merry New Year! My mechanical shop got a pretty good Christmas present from me last week $2,183 for installing a new primary fuel pump and new air dryer system. Guess what I'm going to get , the CC statement. The extra labor was because the only access to the pump was to remove the starter first.

When the Michelin dealer removed the failed tire, did he offer any explanation as to cause? When replacing just one dual tire, they must be within 1/4" in diameter: pg 73 of, https://commercial.bridgestone.com/content/dam/bcs-sites/bridgestone-ex/products/Databooks/Bridgestone-TBR-DataBook-v17.1-06-13-2017.pdf As to service life: https://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/bulletins/TB_Service_Life_RV_Tires.pdf

What Bill said, X2! If your valve is leaking, when you remove it, soak it in vinegar for a few hrs. Re-install and see if that corrects the leaking. If not, you only wasted a few minutes of time and 1C vinegar, then you may spend money for a new valve. FWIW, they usually leak when the air pocket/pressure cushion that is supposed to be in the top of the tank is absorbed by the water. Your valve removal, or simply opening the valve handle, plus draining about 1G of water, restores the air pocket.

Excellent point!

What richard linked-to is a press-fit, IF the groove is cut to width properly.

Read my reply to richard, I think I explained it correctly. The pressure difference would be small IMO. FWIW, my tires have such a pressure increase, IMO it is due to the tire shops air compressor "water trap" efficiency and level of maintenance.

My apologies, profound was the wrong word, significant would be more suitable to the sentence and subject matter. As to the size of the container, in this instance a truck tire, it is immaterial, as all ideal gas's have the same size molecules and occupy the same space when at the same pressure. ref: Avogadro's Law Normal pressure change is (where is tireman9)2% for every 10° tire temperature change-using dry air/nitrogen. You may calculate that for your specific tires, then factor in Dalton's law. (I'm not up to doing the calculations at my age) Using SgtJoe'''s tires for the example, tires set at 100psi; 2% = 2psi for a 10° temperature change. Now assume his cold tires are at 60° before he begins a trip, an hour into that drive/trip his tire temperature is 120°, a 60° temperature change = 18° when hot- with dry air/nitrogen; then Dalton's law (water into vapor expansion rate) comes into effect to further change pressure. I forgot, each brand of tire has different characteristics due to construction materials and methods, which is an un-calculable variable to this subject.

richard, Daltons law defines the expansion rate of air that contains moisture.As previously stated, if no air dryer is used it can have a profound effect on air pressure. We cannot ignore the fact that ALL tires are mounted at current atmospheric humidity, so some % of moisture content is always present, even when the tires are then pressurized with Nitrogen. When I was in high school I worked part-time at the local Goodyear store as a tire changer. It was not uncommon to break down a tire and see an ounce or more of water in the tire.

When we owned a 5er, I would determine where the roof braces were by observing the roof on a cool morning when there is dew on it. The roof braces will stand-out, I remember their locations, and try to only step on them when I was on the roof. If I was really working on the roof I hauled up a 3' sq piece of 1/2" plywood to stand/work on. Our MH is not made so lightly, I can step anywhere without the roof deflecting.

Nearly all RV transport companies prohibit using anything in the RV, including sleeping on the floor.

This is concerning putting anything other than air inside a Michelin tire. Reference page 4 of : https://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/MLN_Truck_Tire_Warranty.pdf Personal experiences with Tyron bands: https://community.fmca.com/topic/778-tyron-bands/

I remember both! You're right, engine # is a public thing, like VIN. That reminds me, I created a document right after we bought our MH(took a few months) listing all the serial numbers for everything in/on our MH that has one, and I could find. Might be helpful if the MH is ever stolen or destroyed.

I know, I didn't want to insert my engine #, that was supposed to be an example. I suspect it boils down to which brand air compressor was used on which engine.

I remember reading something about this several years ago, but didn't give it much thought at the time. I only recently joined Cummins QuickServe, and this notice was there today. The header says 'Engine parts information- my engine serial # - ISC CM554. I plan to ask the shop owner what all that means when I go pickup my MH tomorrow. The campaign number is C0111, listed "open". Perhaps this statement has something to do with my engine vs other engines: " The ISC engine has been produced with two brands of air compressors since its introduction in March, 1998." reference: https://quickserve.cummins.com/service/toss/2000/05/iscts.htm Cummins QuickServe is free to join, requires your engine serial number and a few other specifics. If you order parts through the website(my original intent) you receive a 10% discount.

We've had a dusting only.

Me too wayne, the manual buttons are for tweaking. I usually set the front a smige high so rain water isn't dripping from the gutter at the door. Some day I've got to do it right and re-adjust the leveling "brain box".

My engine is a 1999 ISC, when I visited the QuickServe website last night I discovered it may be covered by a current open campaign covering 3 different engines, the ISB, ISC, and ISL; this is for the Cummins air compressor front bushing. This is a heads-up for owners of those engines to log-in to Cummins QuickServe and check for your engine by serial number.

OK, what I was told is inline with what Jlamont posted. That shop owner said when they took apart this one particular ISX,they had to chisel out the deposits on the EGR valve manifold opening. I have no dog in this fight, however, it sounds to me like a class-action is overdue.

Read the truckers forums, for more information. Talked to the owner of a HDT repair shop today about the ISX problems. He said they are now sure the NOX reduction stuff(SCR) required be EPA was causing the problems. He went into great detail, describing what the inside of a failed ISX looked like; I cannot remember everything he detailed. A company in Florida figured out how to delete that, and was widely advertising their work. A trucker was caught without it, admitted where and who did the delete. The company was fined $200,000, then required to go back and re-install everything on every truck they worked on, to the tune of approx $6 million, they filed bankruptcy instead. That's what I was told, true? I doubt the man would lie about something that easy to verify if one wanted to spend the time.

I just posted in the Cl A forum about my primary fuel pump leaking. I called our local HDT repair shop Friday past, explained about the pump leak. The shop owner answered the phone, then said Mondays are very busy due to repairs resulting from wrecker tow-ins over the weekend, bring in in Tuesday morning at 8AM. The rest of the story is in that new thread, I'm a happy camper, albeit my wallet is a bit lighter. If you ever have problems in S. half of Indiana, shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to give you the shop details, BTW, he has a wrecker(4 total) large enough to retrieve a fully-loaded semi, MH's should be no problem.

Several have had their primary fuel pump mounting bolts come loose. Last week I noticed a small puddle of diesel fuel underneath my engine, remembering those posts, I took our MH to the local HDT repair shop who also works on MH chassis. The fuel pump was leaking fuel onto the starter when they did an inspection. Phew_ that is the primary cause of DP fires according to NFPA statistics. So in order to replace the primary fuel pump, first the starter must be removed, pump replaced, starter re-installed; then replace air dryer desiccant filter. Total bill $1,600, if no other problems are encountered. The mechanic said a bus chassis is the hardest engine to work on, The Spartan MM GT is a bus chassis. I could save several hours labor if I were still capable of DIY work underneath our MH, regrettably old age has claimed another victory over me.