rayin

Me too, I cannot visualize what is broken and where. It sounds like a plastic welder will be required.

Good point about width,I forgot. This includes determining if his present rims are wide enough for the increased tire width.

The video Kaysmith posted is not a Norcold 12xx series. The 12xx has a plastic bushing directly in the door bottom instead of being outside the door. When the plastic door frame breaks, there are two choices buy new or have the plastic welded back in position. If the actual door is not broken, only the hinge, Amazon has hinge repair parts: https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-625129-Door-Repair-Models/dp/B004RCP93U?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004RCP93U The steel hinge pin is not included. FWIW, Norcold 12xx parts list. My Norcold 1200LRIM is now 20 years old, if anything expensive breaks I will buy a new Norcold 1200LRIM. I figure it''s life cycle is complete.

Actually, I have 1" thick plywood in 12" squares with 1/2" holes in opposing corners for jack pads, and use my awning rod to position them. Snaps pads are in my future, at 77 getting up and down is not pleasant.

First things first; Have a total alignment performed on your MH, almost any HDT repair shop has the alignment equipment. This includes checking and correcting the thrust angle. FWIW, my thrust angle was out by 3/4", after the total alignment our MH drives very easily. At 10,000 miles you should not have any worn parts needing replacement. Something that affects steering is, the roads you normally drive have "ruts" in them from traffic. Radial tires tend to follow those ruts, low air pressure can increase that phenomenon. reference: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=47 Edit: Belatedly, Welcome to the forums!

This Sunday it expected to be 58°F, today_ 34°. Worst part, my cousin keep texting me the weather in Ft. Myers Beach, and I'm 🥶

Check out switching to 255/70R22.5 tires They are very close to your tire size, and readily available from different tire mfgrs., virtually all will be less expensive than Michelin, and IMO perform just as well. When I joined FMCA, their tire webpage had a statement to check with Michelin dealers before using their discounting, as some dealers would sell for less without using the program.

Welcome! I cannot help with locating a repair shop. I can offer some advice about the ABS light staying on; this is usually due road dirt,grease,etc. sticking in the tone rings slots on each wheel and causing a fault light. My solution was to use my pressure washer from the opposite side and vigorously spray the backside of the wheels of the other side of the MH. A word of caution, the brakes will be wet afterwards, drive with care! If this doesn't work, you have lost nothing but time and a tiny bit higher water bill. BTW, the ABS light does not affect braking ability, they just do not have the anti-lock feature.

Go back and re-read BandM's initial statement. I read it to say, " Current MICHELIN is no longer available", how do you intrepret his statement?

To make the ° symbol, hold down the inner ALT key while pressing 2 4 8 on the keypad on right side of keyboard. The complete listing of W10 alternate signs is found at: https://tools.oratory.com/altcodes.html We have bright sunshine mild North breeze at 32°F, but It's 76° in front of this monitor.

BandM, Check out the Sailun 295/75R22.5 in either 14 or 16 ply. This tire is 1/10" taller, and 8/10" wider than that Michelin 275/80R22.5. I think the cost is very reasonable. As to locating a nearby dealer, usually if the dealer carries Cooper tires they also carry Sailun truck tires(which btw are made in Vietnam-not China) I bought a set after walking around at truck stops and observing HDT steer tires. I run 275/70R22.5, LR H. My final bill was $1,280 in 2017 for all 6, mounted, balances, installed, including taxes. During the past 2 years these tires have performed flawlessly, and I think ride better than the old Goodyears I removed.

Try this link Wayne, my security settings won't allow me to view it on this machine, so hope it works. https://www.wintertexantimes.com/News/2009-2-26/Article2.htm This utube video/slideshow explains: here is the preview of that article though:" Owner Fred Renk is planning another heart-stopping bullfight as Santa Maria Bullring stages its final bullfight of the Winter Texan season on Feb. 22. At the last bullfight, on Feb. 8, the excitement began even before the event started when the first bull tried to climb out of the chute and knocked the makeshift roof off on one of his many ... " The Santa Maria Bullring is on facebook:https://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-María-Bullring/186213611413740 This is my wife with the guest matador from Mexico City:

X3 If that is not desirable to fagnami, how about https://rvsnappad.com/

I took my wife to witness this event while we spent the 2008 winter in Donna, TX. She still talks about it today. Full story here: https://www.wsj.com/articles/texas-only-home-for-matadors-is-on-brink-of-closing-11579689001 If anyone has never attended a bullfight, this may be your last chance in Texas.

DW has a Hank Williams 33 1/3 album titled "Mr. and Mrs. Hank Williams" singing duets. I haven't copied it onto a CD yet though, nor another album titled "the four Hanks" Hank Williams, Hank Snow, Hank Locklin, Hank Thompson. Edit, DW won't allow me to play my Red Sovine album while driving the MH, she's afraid I'll get "into the moment" as she says.

mike, docj's comments got me to thinking. Winnebago has all their schematics and diagrams for each model MH online. Hopefully your MH mfgr. does too. There are multiple check valves in both the brake and suspension air systems. Perhaps there are one or more leaking backwards. My MH has developed the same hidden air pressure loss, and I am ignorant of how to find a leaking check valve; I too have spent several hours with a spray bottle filled with children's bubble soap underneath my MH and only discovered two very slow air leaks, like one- three bubbles a minute.

It would be a lot of heat inside, it would melt the finish right off the cabinetry. As to ventilation, I purposely left the metal siding ridges open at the bottom and at the top of the walls. I was more interested in natural convection during our hot muggy summer months than retaining heat in winter. DW says she may move my bed out there since I spend so many days there in warm weather. I have more work on the MH in the near future. I ordered a new WW motor and crank arm today. My research to find the right motor revealed it is a universal 55Nm wiper motor used by many bus and MH builders. Wiperparts.com is my source(recommended by Winnebago) for motor and crank arm, I did have an email extended conversation to insure I would order the correct crank arm.

The Eagles! The guitar work by Don Felder and Glenn Frey is amazing. After a few hours, DW nixes them and switches on the 10 CD changer that's loaded with golden oldies CW legends, and a CD copy of Glenn Miller's original 33 1/3 album (big band at its finest IMO).

Six days have passed, wonder what was Mike's resolution?

Kerosene and diesel fuel, when burned, produce very little Co2. Be kinda hard to deplete O2 in a 36,000 cubic feet pole barn/garage that is not air-tight. Thank you for the consideration though.

OK, I see the chart stating 13.5v. This means I must review my settings to insure they are all correct. Every voltage displayed on the remote appears 1V higher than what should be normal, except for actual battery voltage. Thank you for reading the manual and pointing out the float voltage,I looked, guess I was too tired to be reading. The nearest Xantrex repair center to me is in White House, TN; I'll call them tomorrow and have a conversation about my unit. Ya, outdoor temperature yesterday was 38°, garage is unheated unless I'm working there. The battery temp sender indicated 51° yesterday when I installed them and turned on Xantrex, 18° this afternoon. A side note, DW said this afternoon, she wants to spend next winter in FL. (fingers crossed!)

Tightening clamp screws in the breaker panels and the ATS is part of my annual checklist. These rolling earthquakes will shake things loose as they traverse our wonderfully smooth roads.

I don't remember what float charge(update-none listed) is listed in the manual. I do know the Exide website listed 14.8 as maximum float voltage. That IMO was 1 full volt too high, but Exide must know their products. The Xantrex RS2000 owners manual, on pg 3-19 only discusses what is user configurable charger settings: http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/RS2000_Sine_Wave_Inverter-Charger_Operation_Guide(975-0125-01-01_Rev-A).pdf Another section states settings not discussed may only be changed by a dealer, or Xantrex technician. My only way to affect those settings is by reducing the total AH of all batteries, 5 in my case, 2 start, 3 house. I have the charger setting at 300AH(this does not include the start battery AH. This means the charge rate is divided by 5, ie: maximum 60A charge rate. BTW, when I first turned the inverter/charger after installing new batteries, the readout said; voltage 12.2, then bulk charging at 15V @39A. That slowly lowered to absorption rate, then off=not charging. I'm wondering if the old dead batteries have affected the inverter/charger, if that is the case I'll buy a new Xantrex SW3012 =3,000w inverter @ 12V, 150A charger.

Since purchase I've left the setting for 3-stage charging; bulk, absorption, float. That set of 3 Exide deep-cycle 12V batteries lasted 4 yrs 7 mos. After re-reading my owners manual I changed the setting to 2-stage, bulk, absorption, the float is replaced by off. The Xantrex charger senses when the batteries require charging and turn on the charging process. I'll see how this set of new batteries last. BTW, the float is 14.1V@ 51° by battery temp sensor. Float setting can only be changed by Xantrex technician per the online manual. Am I being naive to think this way?