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Brian, Please share with us what you found that caused your problem, it will helpful to all of us. Thanks, Jim

Looks like they have a XLZ, maybe that's what he meant. JIm

With the information that you have provide it sounds like the AC output of the inverted and generator out put is being tied together, This would suggest that problem lies within the inverter isolator that prevents the 2 sourced from being tied together. You could verify that this is the problem by disconnecting the AC output of the inverter and then start your generator. Jim

We used to go to Port Mansfield, nothing fancy small fishing town, we used it as home base when we took our boat. Jim

Joe, Maybe I should consider changing the size of my front brakes, how much bigger could I go without changing the air chambers? Jim

A clothes pin will work to prevent the brake from being pushed down. Jim

Nice paint job, wish you many happy miles. Jim

Ray, You might find that the magnetic door switch is switching a ground lead vs a hot lead. Jim

Great, glad you are on the road again and I bet the campground owner appreciated your business. Jim

Have you checked to be sure that you have the 120 AC switch on and the 12v (propane0 selector off. At least that's the way they are labeled on my coach. Jim

Drove from Portland OR to El Paso TX, last summer, worst traffic the whole trip was between Ogden UT and Salt Lake City, UT. All stop and go, no accidents just rolling slow downs. Jim

I have checked with Gunite and KIC they do NOT have a drum to cross reference to mine. I just got off the phone with Cowlaw RV salvage and they are looking for a good used one. Thanks, Jim

Do you happen to have the part # for the ones that you purchased? Thanks, Jim

During one of my trips last fall I has a vehicle pull out in front of has and had to apply the brakes quite abruptly. During the application of the brakes I felt chattering and noise from left front wheel, there was no pulling of the steering wheel. Decided to dig into during the slack time and found a deep grove in the about midway in the brake drum surface. I'm thinking that a rock must have gotten in there to cause the damage, the brake shoe thickness shows little or no wear except at the grooved area. Having difficulty locating a new brake drum. The brake drum is a WEBB 65555, what's interesting the lettering for WEBB 655 is part of the casting the last 55's are stamped in. Checking with WEBB the 65555 is no longer available but they have a 65555B, only differences is the B indicated that it is balances. I have been unable to locate the 65555B in the WA or OR,, I have been quotes prices from anywhere between $650-$875 plus freight. These prices sound ridiculous, when you can buy drums for a log truck for less than $200. I have tried to cross reference the WEBB number to other manufacturers and find that there parts are obsolete. I'm waiting from RV salvage yards to see what they might have. Please advise if any leads on a better deal. Thanks Jim

Is there anyway to grease the input shaft? Jim

You might want to check the intake and exhaust passages to make sure that there are no restrictions that could alter the air flow. Just open the furnace from the outside by removing the two large slotted screws. The air passages will remain stationary. It's not unusual for critters to build nests in them when you rv is stores. Just use compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to clean the passages. JIm

I believe the travel on the stairs monitors the current (amps) when the stairs reached full travel in or it, the current increase to a high set point and the power to the motor is interpreted. The controller automatically reverses the polarity of the power supply to the motor and moves the stairs in the opposite direction when activated again. If the friction in the stair linkages is to much it will automatically stop in a mid position, thinking it has reached its end of travel. Jim

Huff, I would start by disconnecting the linkage between the electric motor and stairs to determine if the problem is the stairs binding or that the motor isn't producing any torque. Jim

I purchases a 04 Holiday Rambler seven years ago, it has the Cummins ISC engine. It had 29k miles on it when I purchased, I now have 65Kk miles and it has been trouble free. I paid $84k for mine and now see similar rigs in the mid to high $60k. I live in the WA state and rv's are typically higher priced than in the south. I replaced the tires and batteries with the first two hears of purchase and will be replacing them again in the spring. Good luck with your search. Jim

I only use campground potable water to fill my tank. If any of my plumbing develops a leak the pump running alerts be of the problem. I had the ice maker line develop a leak in the middle and when I woke up, I a **** of a mess to cleanup. Jim

Guess one way to avoid diesel contamination with DEF is to purchase you diesel at stations that don't have pumps to disperse DEF. For the most part I usually fill up at Costco or major grocery stores that have fuel. I really like Costco because they take samples when receiving all fuels. Jim

Got the biocide yesterday and will fill the tank today. My dad was a marine engineer and from my early ages he would take me too work with him and he always preached to me that if you are troubleshooting a problem the first question that you ask yourself is, WHAT DID YOU DO LAST?. he would tell me that more likely than not you will find out that it may be contributed to the last repairs or service that was performed. Thanks for all of the advice. Jim

I like the adjustable thermostat that you installed and should mine fail again I will install one. Thanks for sharing your good idea. Jim

Bill, I removed the water separator filter today and found the sealing washer on the thread was a real loose fit, didn't find anything else that seem out of line, however I didn't check the tightness of the drain valve. I had a spare water separator filter so I decided to install it. The center sealing washer was a tight fit, I actually has to force it over the threads. I primed the system per instructions by cycling the on/off switch to activate the lift pump. The engine started within what seemed like a reasonable amount of cranking considering that the filter had just been changed. The engine idled smooth and I then activated the fast idle until air pressure was built. One thing that I did notice that lift pump didn't run for a very long period when cycling the on/off switch, I could hear 2 distinct clicks each cycle, no near 30 sec. that is described during a normal start up. I seem to only remember 2 clicks as been normal for my rig. I'm going to let it sit unit I get back home in a week and seen how it starts. Thank for the responses from all form members. What did you guys think about Cummins response on the over run on start up? It only happened 2 concessive and it has not repeated itself. Jim

The heater on Huff's rig is 12 V DC. I had a similar problem on my rig which has the same setup as Huff's, I was able resolve the problem by cleaning all of the connection in the circuit. The thermostat in the control circuit not the power circuit to the heating element. Jim