Norcold not cooling when moving

[ernsr]

 Hi all.

I just had my 1200 replaced with a 1210 fridge at Newmar. All was well there at camp newmar. when we left noticed not cooling at all when MH is in motion.

Tried it on gen and propane. Does work great when parked unlevel or level ground. A/C or propane does not matter. Set to level 5 then put it on diagnostic mode 3, fin temp will get to 23 degrees. Air will get to 35 degrees. set cruise to 60 mph and in less than 40 miles will get to 50 degree air and 48 fin temp.  checked it for codes, none there. Freezer has same problem. 

Our 1200 was not cooling well on 9, but did cool better on road than this new one does. Called Norcold will not talk to me. Newmar is 932 miles from me [ had to be somewhere] and I don't want to get into the finger pointing game that I have had in the past with vendors and manufacturers. Has anyone had this type of problem before that could help me out.    Thanks Ernie

[hermanmullins]

Ernie,

Welcome to the Forum.

I am not being a smart alec but you missed you chance to install a Residential Unit. Sorry but old or new the Norcold unit is nothing but trouble. And as per your commit "Called Norcold will not talk to me." that is why. I hope you find your answer soon. 

Herman

[wildebill308]

Welcome to the forum. What did the tecks at Newmar say? Have you called them? They might have some trouble shooting ideas. 

Bill

[ernsr]

Thought about residential but we Boondock a lot and we did get 13 years of good service with 1200.

I did call Newmar right away. Had me check dc voltage [ 14.25 ] running. Then was told to bring to a Norcold Dealer. I don't want to be told that it is a Newmar problem or Newmar tell me it is a Norcold problem. If I can not figure it out I will drive 932 miles back to camp Newmar. That way it is on them one way or the other.

 Ernie 

[dickandlois]

Ernie,  Yes, Welcome to the FMCA Forum!

What Model of coach?  Is the refrigerator mounted in a slide out?

A restriction or air flow issue would effect cooling in both in LP and AC mode. The fact that its cooling when parked - kind of makes me wounder it there is an issue with air flow. Do you travel with the windows or the roof vents open? 

When you mentioned replaced the 1200 with a 1210 is the 1210 a new unit?  Do you get an Error code or a check refrigerator Light when it fails to cool?

No fault code =   Poor ventilation.
Off-level operation.
Dirty burner.
Low AC voltage.
Cooling fan inoperative (if present).
Improper installation.

Things to check=  Check enclosure for obstructed air flow.
Level unit. See page 32. Does not appear to be an issue from the OP
Clean burner. See page 28.
Check AC voltage input.
Test fan operation.
Check installation. See pages 19-23
and 1200 Installation Manual.

From your original post did you ever have an issue with the old unit until it failed ?

Rich.

[jleamont]

6 minutes ago, DickandLois said:

Is the refrigerator mounted in a slide out

Was thinking the same thing! Might need fans behind it to help circulate air.

[manholt]

That's why, I will never go back to a 3 way or 2 way fridge!  My big 25cu. foot residential is mounted, just left of center, in a 16' slide out....no problems while driving or camped.  Mine is an all electric coach and I have boon docked up to 2 weeks!

[ernsr]

2005 4304 Mountainaire, not in a slideout. Fridge is less than 2 weeks old. Set up like the 1200 was. Does the same thing with Gen running.

  Ernie 

[jleamont]

Since it happens while moving, sounds like an airflow problem, more like a pressure imbalance behind it starving it for air.

Does it have fans mounted behind it to help exhaust the hot air?

[ernsr]

Forgot: 122 volts at plugin at fridge. 1210 has condenser fans looks just like the ones on the 1200.

[wolfe10]

Still could be air flow issue. Looking up in the outside access door, is there the proper (small) space between outer wall and refrigerator condenser fins?  Too much gap will allow turbulence, which degrades cooing ability on any heat source.

Is roof top vent in place and in reasonable condition?

[manholt]

Just found out, there is a recall on the 1210, issued by Norcold, March 8, 2018.  You can check your model # (found inside fridge side) against the ones listed at Norcolds web site.  It has to do with a faulty connection on the LP side.  They will still operate on electric.  Norcold said, do not operate on LP until its fixed.

Avg. cost of a 1210, $3,300 +/-

[kaypsmith]

While reading the post, I was also thinking about the roof vent, as Brett pointed out. Either in poor condition, maybe bent or some other reason. As mentioned in another post about whistling inside the coach, a deflector may be an answer. I have in the past made temporary ones out of very lightweight aluminum, or plasticore, "that's the stuff that cheap political signs are made of", can be attached to the roof with gorilla tape and usually driven as much as 50 miles before giving up, of course use some type of strap or rope to make sure that it doesn't blow off and hit another vehicle. The issue seems very much like back pressure in the fridge vent system.

[fpresto]

I always look for what has changed. Works fine while parked doesn't work while moving. What is different? Airflow.

[manholt]

Have you checked to see if yours is on recall ?

[rayin]

The most common cause of poor cooling while underway is the condensation tube that drains the condensate from the collection pan underneath the cooling fins. The end of the tube has an insert that prevents insects from entering, and this end is supposed to be in an evaporation pan near the burner tube on the back of the frig submerged in water/condensate. Sometimes the tube gets removed from the pan, this allows warm air to back-flow into the frig, warming the interior. These evaporative refrigerator systems are slow to recover from warm air entering the box. Make sure the drain tube is in the evaporation pan, everything else should work as designed.

[rsbilledwards]

I too would concur on the airflow idea. I find also interesting that the temperature change occurs so quickly. Our 1200 will remain cold for most of the day if off and unopened, and driving or sitting. Yes temp will climb but not that dramatically, wow. The case surrounding the interior box is supposed to be a partial vacuum I think, as on our unit it cautions about puncturing the outer covering. Wonder if that could be part of the equation.  As  fpresto said "look at what has changed". At this point with the frustration level, and the fact that it is "NEW" under warranty, 962 miles looks like the easy way out and I am the consummate diys guy.

On many coaches there is apparently to much space between the coil at the top of the units and the wall. It is strongly suggested this be reduced by a deflector, wall to coil, so all the air is directed through the coil along with additional fans to obviously increase the air flow.

I like the old 1200 for dry camping as well. It is a love hate relationship. Once I get the solar to actually do what I expect and my over night drop where I think it should be perhaps then I will make the move to the "modern all electric" refrigerator.

 

 

[wildebill308]

I re read the OP and for it to act like that it would seem you have a big air leak into the refrigerator that is only letting air in when traveling. Speed = more air preshure. It should not warm up that fast otherwise.

Allso test the door seals. 

Keep us informed as what you find.

Bill

[redwgn]

Hopefully you have been able to get the problem fixed, but if not, I think I have the solution for you.  I had a nearly identical problem with my Dometic refrigerator in my TT, spending hundreds of dollars at numerous repair shops over the past 3 years, but they never were able to fix the problem.  I even replaced the fridge with a brand new one, but that did not fix it either. I was just recently able to diagnose and fix it myself.  The problem was TOO MUCH AIRFLOW over the external condenser coils while driving down the highway.  The condenser coils were always stone cold while driving, instead of being warm or hot like they should have been.  This excessive cooling of the condenser coils was preventing the refrigerant from vaporizing and circulating properly while driving, preventing the fridge from cooling.   On my TT, both of the fridge vents are in the side wall, so I built two draft shields out of thin plywood and 2x2 boards to go over the vents, preventing excessive airflow across the condenser while driving.   I thought I might have to take off the shields while parked to allow enough airflow, but the fridge has cooled just fine while parked with the shields in place, in temperatures up to the low 80s.  The shields are attached with screws to allow for easy removal.  I have attached a picture of a prototype I build out of cardboard.

[rayin]

What redwgn  said points to an improperly constructed chimney for the refrigerator, which sometimes happens, RV mfgrs not following refrigerator mfgrs installation instructions exactly but instead doing what is expedient and convenient.

Edited November 29, 2020 by rayin

[redwgn]

Thanks Rayin.  I agree that RV manufacturers often do not follow all the instructions and specifications from the fridge manufacturers.  In my situation, it turned out that the installation met all of Dometic's installation/ventilation specifications for side wall intake and exhaust venting.   I did consider moving the exhaust vent to the roof, which is Dometic's preferred location, but decided to first try the much cheaper and easier draft shield approach.  I suspect that the problem is at least partly caused by disruption of airflow by the awning support arm, which is located just in front of the fridge vents (on right in picture above). 

Edited November 30, 2020 by redwgn

[golfclubsadvisor]

Maybe the problem is condensation.

[conexxelectrical]

In many coaches there is apparently a lot of space between the coil at the top of the units and the wall. It is highly recommended that it be lowered with a deflector, wall to coil, so that all air is directed through the coil along with additional fans. to obviously increase the air flow.

Edited March 3, 2021 by conexxelectrical

[pogiroheat]

 Here are some natural reasons for your RV refrigerator's cooling unit to quit working If your refrigerator does not have a cooling unit fan, install one or two! That's just to help move the hot air out of the back compartment.

Edited February 25, 2021 by pogiroheat

[rayin]

9 hours ago, pogiroheat said:

 Here are some natural reasons for your RV refrigerator's cooling unit to quit working ... If your refrigerator does not have a cooling unit fan, install one or two! ... That's just to help move the hot air out of the back compartment.

Norcold 12xx series has 2 OEM fans near the top of the coils.