wildebill308 Report post Posted March 22, 2020 How did it act when "It was stalling" ? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbenoit Report post Posted March 23, 2020 It would start right up, run from 1 minute up to 2 minutes then stalls out. After doing this maybe 6-10 times it would run OK. Weird! Does the same with no load or load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted March 23, 2020 DB by some chance do you have rubber fuel lines? If so it could be possible that they a partially collapsed. If this has happened there may be debri in the fuel lines. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Or too much Ethanol in the gas, it deteriorates rubber and seals, just like to high a Bio mix in diesel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted March 23, 2020 David, Have you replaced the fuel filer yet? Sea foam will clean the varnish residue up along with the float needle and seat, but if the is dirt in the carburetor bowel from rust. Small peaces of rust can keep the float needle valve from closing. This would make starting the engine difficult (flooding the engine) One the engine heats up the hotter fuel will vaporize easier and the engine would run fine with some excess fuel. Starting the engine after ti cools, the same issue will happen, dirt and rust inside the carburetor will remain until it is cleaned or replaced. Cutting open the fuel filter and looking at what was taped inside could offer a clue to what part of the fuel supply is unwanted material, rust, rubber, dirt are the common items. You mentioned changing the fuel filter. Has it been replaced yet? I can not see any reason yet to consider electrical issues. Once it starts up and runs long enough to get hot; things tend to work fine. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 23, 2020 I well remember taking the Holly Carb apart & cleaning...The days of KISS in engines, is long gone now! On a gas Gen it's still fairly simple, look it up on the web...plenty of films. As Rich wrote, remove and cut filter to see what's been trapped. Microns of rust/dust will make a carb useless! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted March 23, 2020 This may sound like a silly question but is the choke and pull off working. If so the carburetor is gunk up and must be replaced as there is no service kits for it. What code are you getting when stalling? Attach is manual link. https://www.granddesignrv.com/sites/default/files/Cummins Onan Generator Manual.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbenoit Report post Posted March 23, 2020 I need to go check the error code again. Iza have a fuel filter on order and it has rubber gas lines. The choke looks good and working OK. Imma maybe thinking while I'm under there, blow the gas line back to the tank (low psi). Not sure if there is a check valve thingy between the "in/out". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Just my thinking. If you do that will you know if there is anything in the fuel line and if done do you want to put it back in the tank so it may end up in your engine where you could have the same issue with the coach that you are having with the generator? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted March 24, 2020 5 hours ago, DBenoit said: I need to go check the error code again. Iza have a fuel filter on order and it has rubber gas lines. The choke looks good and working OK. Imma maybe thinking while I'm under there, blow the gas line back to the tank (low psi). Not sure if there is a check valve thingy between the "in/out". Before you blow through the lines disconnect both ends. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbenoit Report post Posted March 24, 2020 8 hours ago, huffypuff said: Before you blow through the lines disconnect both ends. 👍 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 24, 2020 Ray, you know there is no such thing as a "Silly or dumb thought" in this game! You and Herman, spot on, don't blow any line unless it's not attached at either end. His carb is not gunked up, since it works fine when warmed up, just has problems when cold...If it was me, I would remove carb and install a new one. Then take the old one apart. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 24, 2020 Personally, I’d remove the fuel line, put it in a 5 gallon gas can full of fresh gas with a good carb cleaner concentrate, run it under load and empty the gas can, non stop. Reconnect back to the coach and see if that resolves your concern. Of course with a fresh fuel filter also. It sounds like it doesn’t get exercised enough thus causing carburetor problems. This would be the cheapest option. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbenoit Report post Posted March 26, 2020 On 3/24/2020 at 8:01 AM, jleamont said: Personally, I’d remove the fuel line, put it in a 5 gallon gas can full of fresh gas with a good carb cleaner concentrate, run it under load and empty the gas can, non stop. Reconnect back to the coach and see if that resolves your concern. Of course with a fresh fuel filter also. It sounds like it doesn’t get exercised enough thus causing carburetor problems. This would be the cheapest option. Did that with already the SeaFoam. No change. I just got the fuel filter in the mail so I will try that next. Have to wait though. Have a freaking snow pile on that side of the RV. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 26, 2020 David, in the meantime, take your old filter, cut it in half (Lord your stubborn) and see what junk is in their, if none, then your good to go. Ref. your Avatar, the nose is growing and I did not know he came in dark brown. 😂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted March 26, 2020 3 hours ago, manholt said: David, in the meantime, take your old filter, cut it in half (Lord your stubborn) and see what junk is in their, if none, then your good to go. Ref. your Avatar, the nose is growing and I did not know he came in dark brown. 😂 You're Sorry I couldn't resisting poking you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
campcop Report post Posted March 26, 2020 You have not mentioned what year or make your Mh is. On some earlier Tiffin models and others, there was a second fuel filter inline before gen set. Usually tucked up on the frame, easily overlooked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted March 26, 2020 When you are tired of poking at the fuel system, it is beginning so sound as though it is time for a professional valve adjustment. Many times with these smaller engines, the valve adjustment is the answer, especially when there are cold and warmer days involved. Also coil packs do act strangely also, just a couple of other things that are sometimes overlooked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbenoit Report post Posted March 27, 2020 Thanks kayp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingofmonaco Report post Posted March 28, 2020 Definitly would start with a new fuel filter have exact same symptom with mine as soon as it gets hard to start or stay running change fuel filter and good to go . if that does not solve your problem then you could look at the fuel pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted March 28, 2020 FYI, this fact has gotten lost, because of the length of the thread. "I have an Onan RV OG 7000 gas model that starts and runs for a few then stalls out. The generator has a total of 140 hrs. on it. Stored over the winter." Think it might be time to spray some carb cleaner in to the carburetor each time it starts. corn based additives added to fuel messes up the seals, primarily in the float, needle and seat area. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman Report post Posted March 29, 2020 David, With all the problems with 10 percent Ethanol in the fuel of today, I have come up with a MOD. With the knowledge after visiting a plant that makes the product ethanol is going to 15 or 20 percent SOON in the coming years. I am going to put a 3 Way brass gasoline valve on the feed line before input for the generator fuel line. One common port to feed to generator in. One side to the main gas tank. The extra feed would be for a gas can one or two gallon for use of the sea foam mix, and a feed hose to valve. When finish running a cleaner from the extra port; plug the port and remove the hose. Turn 3 way valve to the main gas tank. The next time your ready just remove brass plug; change line , turn the extra port on. YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO BREAK THE GAS LINE.. I believe it will be a MUST DO for this MOD. I share this with some people on this forum before I wrote this. One other thought weather tight the valve. Tim the Mailman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 29, 2020 Having a second gasoline tank and plumbing gets into a whole other level of safety concerns. Will it be stored in a vented compartment, secured, etc, etc. If you are going to get into "re-engineering" I would consider a fuel-safe ball valve and after removing all loads from the generator, close the valve and let the carburetor be stored "dry". Yes, do this only when the generator will not be used for a month or more. And, best practices, open the valve once a month and run the generator under at least 50% load for45+ minutes. Also, for older units, be sure to check the fuel lines for cracks that allow air into the lines. Ethanol laced fuel speeds up deterioration of the fuel lines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted March 29, 2020 With the issues of using ethanol fuels with flexible fuel lines. and the difficulty replacing some of them, one might consider an option. This is one supplier among a number of other possibilities. https://www.driftmotion.com/Parker-7212-3-8-Jiffy-Hose-p/dm2033.htm There are also a number for manufactures that also supply flexible lines for Bio fuels. Living with Ethanol mixed fuels cab be challenging. One can buy Ethanol free fuel. For many the new electric power tools work well, but logging companies and the forestry services Electric powered equipment is not practical. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman Report post Posted March 29, 2020 1 hour ago, wolfe10 said: Having a second gasoline tank and plumbing gets into a whole other level of safety concerns Will it be stored in a vented compartment, secured, etc, etc. If you are going to get into "re-engineering" I would consider a fuel-safe ball valve and after removing all loads from the generator, close the valve and let the carburetor be stored "dry". Yes, do this only when the generator will not be used for a month or more. And, best practices, open the valve once a month and run the generator under at least 50% load for 45+ minutes. Also, for older units, be sure to check the fuel lines for cracks that allow air into the lines. Ethanol laced fuel speeds up deterioration of the fuel lines. Brett The second gas can would be STORED IN THE GARAGE FOR USE ONLY AT HOME. FOR THE USE OF RUNNING SEA FORM MIX THRU CARB TO CLEAN THE WHATEVER WOULD BE IN THE FLUE SYSTEM OF GENERATOR My thoughts of the valve and yes a fuel-safe ball valve should be used ! We don't suggest any use of a second tank on the motor home we already have a tank to carry gas. I never was a writer I do better talking. On the side of safety breaking into a gasoline line is not safe. BUT the thought of the MOD is to make it safe. Thanks for the words, and help in this topic. Tim the Mailman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites