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DBenoit

Genny stalling out

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It would start right up, run from 1 minute up to 2 minutes then stalls out. After doing this maybe 6-10 times it would run OK.

Weird! Does the same with no load or load.

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DB by some chance do you have rubber fuel lines? If so it could be possible that they a partially collapsed.  If this has happened there may be debri in the fuel lines. 

Herman

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Or too much Ethanol in the gas, it deteriorates rubber and seals, just like to high a Bio mix in diesel.

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David, Have you replaced the fuel filer yet?

Sea foam will clean the varnish residue up along with the  float needle and seat, but if the is dirt in the carburetor bowel from rust. Small peaces of rust can keep the float needle valve from closing. This would make starting the engine difficult (flooding the engine) One the engine  heats up the hotter fuel will vaporize easier and the engine would run fine with some excess fuel.

Starting the engine after ti cools, the same issue will happen, dirt and rust inside the carburetor will remain until it is cleaned or replaced. Cutting open the fuel filter and looking at what was taped inside could offer a clue to what part of the fuel supply is unwanted material, rust, rubber, dirt are the common items.

You mentioned changing the fuel filter. Has it been replaced yet? I can not see any reason yet to consider electrical issues. Once it starts up and runs long enough to get hot; things tend to work fine.

Rich.  

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I well remember taking the Holly Carb apart & cleaning...The days of KISS in engines, is long gone now!  On a gas Gen it's still fairly simple, look it up on the web...plenty of films.  As Rich wrote, remove and cut filter to see what's been trapped.  Microns of rust/dust will make a carb useless!

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This may sound like a silly question but is the choke and pull off working.  If so the carburetor is gunk up and must be replaced as there is no service kits for it.  What code are you getting when stalling?  Attach is manual link.  

https://www.granddesignrv.com/sites/default/files/Cummins Onan Generator Manual.pdf

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I need to go check the error code again. Iza have a fuel filter on order and it has rubber gas lines. The choke

looks good and working OK. Imma maybe thinking while I'm under there, blow the gas line back to the tank (low psi).

Not sure if there is a check valve thingy between the "in/out".

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Just my thinking. If you do that will you know if there is anything in the fuel line and if done do you want to put it back in the tank so it may end up in your engine where you could have the same issue with the coach that you are having with the generator?

Herman

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5 hours ago, DBenoit said:

I need to go check the error code again. Iza have a fuel filter on order and it has rubber gas lines. The choke

looks good and working OK. Imma maybe thinking while I'm under there, blow the gas line back to the tank (low psi).

Not sure if there is a check valve thingy between the "in/out".

Before you blow through the lines disconnect both ends.  

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Ray, you know there is no such thing as a "Silly or dumb thought" in this game!  You and Herman, spot on, don't blow any line unless it's not attached at either end.  His carb is not gunked up, since it works fine when warmed up, just has problems when cold...If it was me, I would remove carb and install a new one.  Then take the old one apart.

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Personally, I’d remove the fuel line, put it in a 5 gallon gas can full of fresh gas with a good carb cleaner concentrate, run it under load and empty the gas can, non stop. Reconnect back to the coach and see if that resolves your concern. Of course with a fresh fuel filter also. 
It sounds like it doesn’t get exercised enough thus causing carburetor problems. 
This would be the cheapest option.

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On 3/24/2020 at 8:01 AM, jleamont said:

Personally, I’d remove the fuel line, put it in a 5 gallon gas can full of fresh gas with a good carb cleaner concentrate, run it under load and empty the gas can, non stop. Reconnect back to the coach and see if that resolves your concern. Of course with a fresh fuel filter also. 
It sounds like it doesn’t get exercised enough thus causing carburetor problems. 
This would be the cheapest option.

Did that with already the SeaFoam. No change. I just got the fuel filter in the mail so I will try that next. Have to wait though. Have a freaking snow pile

on that side of the RV.

David

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David, in the meantime, take your old filter, cut it in half (Lord your stubborn) and see what junk is in their, if none, then your good to go.

Ref. your Avatar, the nose is growing and I did not know he came in dark brown. :blink:😂

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3 hours ago, manholt said:

David, in the meantime, take your old filter, cut it in half (Lord your stubborn) and see what junk is in their, if none, then your good to go.

Ref. your Avatar, the nose is growing and I did not know he came in dark brown. :blink:😂

You're     

Sorry I couldn't resisting poking you.  

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You have not mentioned what year or make your Mh is. On some earlier Tiffin models and others, there was a second fuel filter inline before gen set. Usually tucked up on the frame, easily overlooked.

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When you are tired of poking at the fuel system, it is beginning so sound as though it is time for a professional valve adjustment. Many times with these smaller engines, the valve adjustment is the answer, especially when there are cold and warmer days involved. Also coil packs do act strangely also, just a couple of other things that are sometimes overlooked.

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Definitly would start with a new fuel filter have exact same symptom with mine as soon as it gets hard to start or stay running change fuel filter and good to go . if that does not solve your problem then you could look at the fuel pump.

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FYI, this fact has gotten lost, because of the length of the thread.

"I have an Onan RV OG 7000 gas model that starts and runs for a few then stalls out. The generator has a total of 140 hrs. on it. Stored over the winter."

Think it might be time to spray some carb cleaner in to the carburetor each time it starts. corn based additives added to fuel messes up the seals, primarily in the float,  needle and seat area.

Rich.

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David,

With all the problems with 10 percent Ethanol in the fuel of today, I have come up with a MOD.

With the knowledge after visiting  a plant that makes the product ethanol is going to 15 or 20 percent 

SOON in the coming years. I am going to put a 3 Way brass gasoline valve on the feed line before

input for the generator fuel line.   One common  port to feed to generator in. One side to the main gas tank.

The extra feed would be for a gas can one or two gallon for use of the sea foam mix, and a feed hose to

valve. When finish running a cleaner from the extra  port;   plug the port and remove the hose. Turn 3 way valve 

to the main gas tank. The next time your ready just remove brass  plug;  change line , turn the extra port on.

YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO BREAK THE GAS LINE.. I believe it will be a MUST DO for this MOD.

I share this with some people on this forum before I wrote this. One other thought weather tight the valve.

Tim the Mailman

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Having a second gasoline tank and plumbing gets into a whole other level of safety concerns.

Will it be stored in a vented compartment, secured, etc, etc.

If you are going to get into "re-engineering" I would consider a fuel-safe ball valve and after removing all loads from the generator, close the valve and let the carburetor be stored "dry". Yes, do this only when the generator will not be used for a month or more. And, best practices, open the valve once a month and run the generator under at least 50% load for45+ minutes.

Also, for older units, be sure to check the fuel lines for cracks that allow air into the lines.  Ethanol laced fuel speeds up deterioration of the fuel lines.

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With the issues of using ethanol fuels with flexible fuel lines. and the difficulty replacing some of them, one might consider an option.

This is one supplier among a number of other possibilities.

 https://www.driftmotion.com/Parker-7212-3-8-Jiffy-Hose-p/dm2033.htm

There are also a number for manufactures that also supply flexible lines for Bio fuels.

Living with Ethanol mixed fuels cab be challenging. One can buy Ethanol free fuel. For many the new electric power tools work well, but logging companies and the forestry services Electric powered equipment is not practical.

Rich.

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1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

Having a second gasoline tank and plumbing gets into a whole other level of safety concerns

Will it be stored in a vented compartment, secured, etc, etc.

If you are going to get into "re-engineering" I would consider a fuel-safe ball valve and after removing all loads from the generator, close the valve and let the carburetor be stored "dry". Yes, do this only when the generator will not be used for a month or more. And, best practices, open the valve once a month and run the generator under at least 50% load for 45+ minutes.

Also, for older units, be sure to check the fuel lines for cracks that allow air into the lines.  Ethanol laced fuel speeds up deterioration of the fuel lines.

Brett

The second gas can would be STORED IN THE GARAGE FOR USE ONLY AT HOME.  FOR THE USE OF RUNNING

SEA FORM  MIX THRU CARB TO CLEAN THE WHATEVER WOULD BE IN THE FLUE SYSTEM OF GENERATOR

My thoughts of the valve and yes a fuel-safe ball valve should be used !

We don't suggest any use of a second tank on the motor home we already have a tank to carry gas.

I never was a writer I do better talking.

On the side of safety breaking into a gasoline line is not safe. BUT the thought of the MOD is to make it safe.

Thanks for the words, and help in this topic.

Tim the Mailman

 

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