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I'm always confounded by this question. Ready Brake is really the only answer. I run a hot wire to charge the toad battery off of the 7 pin connector. everything else is mechanical, no fooling around cutting Airlines, no electrical hookups, no moving boxes around to drive your toad. . its the best. you should look into it, I mean everyone should look into it. Robbie

'08 FW Providence 40X

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I had a brake Buddy that worked great for years but finally died. My wife and I bought a Blue Ox Patriot system and have had nothing but trouble with the system since we bought it. It does not matter what we do it's one bump or a quarter mile before it is "Out of Position". We have been told that our car seat is to soft so we tried using different kinds of material to put a barrier between the seat and the unit which made no difference, When we went to the Quartzsite show back in January a Blue Ox rep told us that the system may be to sensitive. We are currently looking at different systems and will change to something different very soon.

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Unified Tow Brake by US Gear. Been using it since 2005, three different motorhomes, 5 different cars (umm, maybe 6). Proportional braking. Never a problem, easy to hook up - tow bar, safety cables, breakaway cable, and the one plug for lights and the brakes. In all the 8+ years ran the battery down on one HHR and that was 100% entirely my fault.

It's worth looking into.

:)

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Bad news. We have the Brake Master system on our National Tradewinds motor home. Though the system works well, the brake away system will only work in a totally catastrophic failure of the tow system. The lanyard is too long to actuate the auxiliary cylinder unless the tow bars and the safety cables have failed! If the tow bars fail and the cables " catch " the toad, applying the motor home brakes will cause the toad to rear end the motor home! I have to admit the braking system otherwise works well.

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dcochran1167,

That is a tough one. Two bad answers and no good ones on that. If brakes are not applied, yes the toad can hit the coach if coach brakes are applied.

But, were you to shorten the lanyard (probably easily done) and the car is still attached with safety cables, one arm of the tow bar, etc you would quickly burn up the toad brakes-- thousands of dollars of damage likely. We are talking about brake calipers, disks and in extreme cases tires.

With a powerful coach, you could smoke the toad brakes before you knew there was an issue.

Your rear view camera is your friend. I glance it it (hitch just in view) each time I glance at the gauges.

So, not sure that they made the incorrect decision about lanyard length.

BTW, this applies to all brake away systems.

Brett

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Doesn't seem like any mentions so far of RViBrake. I've had the system for a year and very happy with it. Simple to use, very portable, easily installed in both of our toad's. Have used many times in multi-day 1,000 mile treks and no issue with battery drain. I would add this to any list of units to consider.

Glenn

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We live in Colorado and virtually all trips result in mountain passes. We've used a Brakemaster by Roadmaster, an air actuated proportional system on two Jeep Grand Cherokees behind two Monaco Diplomats for over ten years with no problems and excellent results. Easy to hook up and disconnect, but most importantly, very effective.

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I have the Air Force One set up on a 2008 Ford Taurus and a 2007 Winnebago Tour. Have only towed about 1,000 miles but have had no problems as yet. I did all the install work myself.

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Does anyone have any experience with the Blue Ox Patriot Braking System?

I am new to Dinghy Towing and have reservations concerning the system discharging my battery. I'm going to be towing a 2012 Ford F150 4X4.

Any advice or help would be appreciated.

I also tow a 13 F150 4X4 and have a charge wire from my coach to the truck battery I used #10 wire with a fuseable link 15 or 20a on each battery, the reason for this is if your battery runs down and you tow the truck you could damage the trans, check your owners book, I also have a diode on the truck battery to stop back feed to the coach, not sure this is necessary but it wont hurt. I dont know about the Patriot I use the Brakemaster by Roadmaster, I think among one of the best behind M&G.

Walt

2000 Dyn

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I tow 4 down now but I towed using a dolly for several years because my vehicle was not towable 4 down. I used the Demco Kar Kaddy SS successfully for 20,000 miles. There are cheaper dollys, but none better, It has surge brakes and a breakway feature. Which ever way you decide to tow, install and use a supplemental braking system and preferably a break away system as well.

http://demco-products.com/rv-towing-products/tow-dollies/kar-kaddy-ss

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Most if not all dollys have surge brakes. When I tow my Prius I have to use a dolly. I don't like surge brakes because if you are in the mountains they could be always on. I changed the surge actuator to a air over hydraulic master cylinder and it is actuated by the air brakes from the coach.

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I am researching braking systems for a 2014 Ford CMax hybrid. I was sold on the SMI Duo system until talking to the dealer who informed me that the CMax brake pedal will not accept the Actuator mount. The recommended alternative is the SMI Delta Force Model DFO114 portable unit that sits on the floor in front of the the Driver seat.

FYI The Ford CMax is on the FMCA tow list, but after purchasing, have encountered several posts about the difficulty owners are having getting it set up for towing. brake systems and battery drain seem to be the trouble issues.

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Dun,

Most every vehicle will have some glitches in setting up to tow. Battery drain, you can set up your cable with a charge line (7 Pin Connector).

Brake system, there are several choices, SMI makes a very good unit. On yours it may take the removable cylinder, however it is a good unit because once it has been installed properly then you never have to adjust it. Lights are a very easy fix. You or a good RV shop can install diodes with a wiring harness and then all you have to do is plug in.

Life is simple. As Clint Eastwood said, "Adjust, Adapt and Over Come."

Good luck and keep us up on your progress.

Herman

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Hi All -

We just bought our first good used motorhome last July. We are trying to put together what need to tow our 2010 Honda Fit w/manual transmission behind our 35 foot 2006 Forest River Georgetown built on the Ford F-53 Gas chassis w/ the Ford Triton V-10, 20-valve, 310 HP engine and the F400 transmission. Motorhome has a 3000/300 hitch receiver from factory and we have a Blue Ox Aladdin 4000 lb. rated tow bar that was part of the system that the original owners provided as part of the sale to us. Blue Ox makes a base plate for the Honda Fit. Found a diode plug-in wiring solution for the brake lights and trickle charger for the battery. Trying to find the best economical braking system and break away system to round out the package.

Any experience with "surge" supplemental braking systems like the NSA Readybrake with the additional emergency breakaway system?

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I am not a fan of surge-type toad brakes. There are too many times when use of lower gears will control your speed of descent on a grade. But will also generate enough "push" to keep your toad brakes applied. If set so that this does not happen, then braking effort when you really need it is in question.

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