dickandlois

Man, 4 units in like 6 years!!! Got to ask where the controller is mounted on your coach. Could you post a picture of the controller and the connectors the one on the board and its mating cable end. Would this be an electric leveling system? Thinking the issue might be a high current load and connectors and cable size being to small for the load. Rich.

The cost does depend on a long list of variables for sure. Chassis and coach builders are always changing items and the way those changes allow for different chassis designs verses cost, an coach builders then try different floor plans. The resulting changes can have a significant affect on the cost. Depending how each owner breaks down the operating cost and deprecation would give a different figure of the same coach. Through in the geographic area and that can add a degree of difference for the total cost. Just take the cost of a new roof on a stick and bricks structure compared to a coach. The list goes on and on. Take into account how one's disposable income changes with time an one could also say can I still own a DP or any coach. The thing is with a coach one can change the view out the windows, spend time with the many friends made and rejoice in that fact that we where able to offer our children a wonderful learning experience. So we will enjoy our coach as long as possible, knowing all to well that the day will come when it all ends !! Rich.

Max, that eliminates a lot of connections and Ray gave you some good information. Grounds are key, but you might want to check the positive connections also. Remember to remove the ground connection on the chassis battery(s). There are a few tricks I use, using long jumper cables. Not knowing your skills around cars and RV's I do not want you to get hurt. Rich.

Ron, The best source for that information would be the coach builder. They can be located anywhere. My thought would be somewhere in the front 1/3rd of the coach, that would require less wire overall and in one of the more forward bays. That could cause an issue getting to it. Are any of the bays unlocked? if so you might be able to get into an area. Look at the color of the wires running to the door that will open and try and trace a wire bundle, that should have more wires in it; as they get closer to the receiver! Rich.

Ron, not knowing the make of your system, take a look at this link. might be what you have. http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/easkum.aspx Rich

Doug, Could you clarify jittery, quick jumpy movement? Bounce, sway, hard ride or something else? Rich.

You are welcome! The credit belongs to Brett. I just forwarded the information. Good luck and let the group know how you make out. Rich.

David, You might want to ask the coach builder where the temperature sensors for the refrigerator are located also. With the air flow being different, the sensors might be sensing the outside temp. and not getting a good reading form the heater coils that heat the coils on the refrigerator. A manual switch is always handy, but if there is something out of place the, auto function working better is always good if the manual switch is on / or off under cooler temperatures. Thinking that with too much cool air moving over the coils, that would place a high work load on the system when it would not be necessary. Rich.

David, Would think that with a large section of the wall missing from one side of the refrigerator it would limit the air flow across the back of the unit. That would decrease the cooling. Is there a way to replace the missing panel or was it removed to make room to remove and reinstall the refrigerator ? Rich.

Ray, I understand, but the thing that stands out to me is there appears to be more then just one trouble spot; just because of the degree of complication built into the circuit. Max, was the clicking sound at the starter or was it under the drivers seat? Rich.

The post just did not take. The network or server must have been slow!! Now there are tow posting the same information ! So lets try again. A link to some starter information on the Sprinter Chassis. http://thetruckmechanictoolbox.blogspot.com/2013/01/2005-sprinter-no-crank-no-start.html Rich. Thanks Kay for sharing.

This is a link to some information on just how complicated the starter circuit is on the sprinter chassis. http://thetruckmechanictoolbox.blogspot.com/2013/01/2005-sprinter-no-crank-no-start.html Rich. Thank You Kay for sharing you find !!!!

Ray, The question is that there appears to be hundreds of them with the same problem and changing the Starters, solenoids and other mechanical parts is not solving there problem. Rich.

Kay, Thanks for your personal message. Think you should post the information link for all sprinter owners. Owners would have no clue to the way this system is wired and mechanics are not well schooled in a starter circuit this complicated. I can only say, This is Nuts-World gone Crazy !!!! Rich.

Planocat, I would agree, but this has been an ongoing issue from the day this coach was new and appears to be an issue with a number of this style Chassis. Have found some information posted, by some owners that have not had any starting issues. Rich.

Max24 j, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Could you disconnect the negative ground cable at the battery and then after about 20 seconds reconnect it and see if it starts? Post if it starts or not. If it does, try it a few times, if it keeps starting; post that information . This is just a test to confirm a thought regarding a possible problem. Should it work and then not start again try the same thing again. Thinking there is a possible grounding issue. The real trick is to find what module or point between the engine and the battery ground terminal is causing the issue. Ray's and DD's thoughts a veiled. Rich.

Roger, The opening should have a isolation diaphragm so moisture or anything else can not get into the units. Let us know if there is something I'm missing ! Rich.

Dennisr, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! One that I know of. Yes there are 2 of them and he found them outside in the rats nest of wires in one of the bundles, where the wires exit the coach; Drivers side wires raped with electrical tape. They very well could be inside. The connector should be between the steering wheel(close to the column) and the ignition switch(is the SW to the right or left of the wheel)Then the wire they are referring to is routed to the transmission selector location, and bundled with some other wires in many cases. Find the 8 pin connector, how much wire is between the connector and where the bundle go's through a hole in the firewall? if there is very little length, then the diodes could be outside. Can you read Electrical Drawings? I have the chassis wiring diagram for your year chassis! Can forward you a copy. I can send you a Privet Message, it will appear in the little envelope in the top right corner. Just to the left of your Monogram( Dennisr) if you like so you can reply directly to me. Click on the envelope to open the read and reply box. If you look at this link and at the picture of the diodes I got from Radio Shack. That will give you an idea of there size. Generator issue link> http://community.fmca.com/gallery/album/265-alternator-problems/ The brake light switch(s) are located under the coach and are activated by the air brake valves. The switch's are air activated. Check them first as they are easier to fine, using a meter / or test light in this case will work to find the hot wire. Is there 12 volts on one of the terminals on the switches, check the second switch next to the first one. They are kind of round in shape and thread into the air brake valve(s) 2 terminals on each switch. When you find them, is there voltage present? have a helper depress the brake peddle(you will need air pressure built up) is there voltage on the other terminal when the brake peddle is pressed? on all the contacts? Finding the diodes is time consuming and also requires a great deal of persistence. Rich.

Roger, There are special valve cores with fine screens to keep the powder balance material from getting into the valve seal area. I have used them. They work well, but are not perfect. The finer powder can pass through the screen, causing a very slow leak. The only way I have been able to clear the problem is lower the air pressure and air up the tires at times. Should the tire pressure be on the low side one can just add air to clear the leak. The internal pressure sensors are the only ones that are immune. Rich.

The power steering system could be masking a ball joint or drag link issue. The OEM units are no longer supplied with grease fittings and they could be drying out. When they dry out, things do not move as freely. How many miles have you towed the car? The car is 4 years old and they never have been greased. Rich.

Ivy, Thanks for your feedback! Ray mentioned the fuel pump. Did they run a fuel pressure test on the fuel pump? Ivy, there is a ground connection for the fuel pump on the pump assembly harness connects to the frame, that one might want to check and see if it is rusted or loose. From all the information, posted it sure sounds like a fuel supply issue and if the inline fuel filter was changed; it would still look like new. Do you know if the fuel tank is made of metal or polypropylene ? If the tank is metal, then there could be a rust issue plugging the fuel pump filter inside the tank. Rust rust inside plastic fuel tanks could only come from an external source. Fuel pumps generally can pump 10 thousand gallons of fuel before having issues. That much fuel would put the coach in the 100,000 + mile area. You did not mention smelling fuel, that could indicate rusted metal lines on the fuel pump assembly. Rich.

Cosborne, Looking at the image of the relay on the link page, you can see 2 of the terminals on top of the relay. These posts and nuts are for the large 12 volt battery sized cables. On the back of the relay(the side you can not see are 2 much smaller connections that look like the ones on top. There will be 2 wires,but much smaller that connect to these terminals. one goes to ground and the other supplies 12 volts to energize or De-energize the relay / contractor. Look at this link picture of the relay, you will see 2 of the threaded posts' http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012 Rich.

Cosborne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Not Brett, but the contractor has 4 connections. The large 2 are for the switch contacts and the small 2 are for the control circuit, so it can be turned on and off. Rich.

bjeff, Took some time to look around for some information and did find this link. It might be a start, not allot of information on dual wheel well liners. Will add items as time allows !!!! http://www.buyersproducts.com/Mudflaps-Splash-Guards-Fenders/Fenders/Poly-Fender-fits-minimum-195-dual-rear-wheels/4879/ http://www.raneystruckparts.com/semi-truck-poly-fenders-black-for-19-5-dual-rear-wheels-single-axle/ http://www.raneystruckparts.com/semi-truck-poly-fenders-black-22-5-or-24-5-rear-wheels-single-axle/ Rich.

bjeff, have you tried this? if not give it a go. See if something looks like it would work. If not let the group know. https://www.google.com/#q=rv+wheel+well+liners Rich.