dickandlois

Brett, when you added the relays to the lighting circuits did you install wiring from the main battery buss and add a fuse to each circuit? Rich.

Larry, The tires on my coach are smaller over all with a different axle. Your front axle weight is a good 5000 lbs greater them my setup. What I wanted to let you know is that different series tires from the same supplier react differently to road conditions, loads and air pressure. One needs to keep in mind the rim, dual spacing requirements and load range. The XZA3 series is a unique series and design. Hope that Tireman chimes in with his extensive tire background. Rich.

Hi Jim, Like Brett mentioned, You have done your home work and know what you have and do not have. So when you call Winnebago you have information that will help pin down the issue. I remember seeing a 500 circuit related to the starting circuit on Winnebago's drawings and no circuit information directly showing the circuit wiring. The starter circuits have a relay that is energized when you turn the key to start. The key switch can not carry the current needed to power the starter. Often this relay is referred to as a Castle relay and the large contacts connect the starter solenoid to the large cables running to the chassis batteries. The small wires run from the starter switch 12 volts and the other terminal connects to ground close to the relay. Keep the group in the loop. Rich.

Regarding the XZE tires, I notice less wandering using them on the front. They are more of a truck tire and have a stiffer sidewall. My total coach weight is less then yours so I can not speak for how they would work for you. We do not see any difference in the ride with them though. Rich.

RoryTug, From the information you supplied describing how it is acting would lead me to think its a cold solder connection-- the fact that the cooler it is the longer it operates. So see if it operates longer when its cool outside, like in the late evening or AM hrs. There could be a build up of some oxidation on one or more of the cable connections, so check and clean the center conductor on all the RF cables also. A little expansion and contraction issue. That can cause a loss of power (Voltage). NOTE! if you clean the center conductor, unplug or power down the power source, do not want to add a blown fuse to the mix! The other possibility is a defective filter capacitor, but that is a long shot from your information. Rich.

Hi Mikey O. and welcome to FMCA You mentioned that your unit was not built on a Ford Chassis if I'm reading between the line properly. So that would mean a Workhorse Chassis with a 8.1 L Vortec Engine with a 5 speed transmission with overdrive. This link should give you some base information and match your floor plan. http://www.fleetwood-motorhomes.com/Bounder/06images/BDR_35E.pdf With the proper information this link might help. http://www.radiatorpros.com/catalog/ac-components?gclid=CNv8nO3ylrgCFTMOOgodKigAIQ Also! You could have a Compressor used on a SPRINTER. Look at this web sight ,last items listed section. http://www.densoheavyduty.com/ac-compressors/medium-heavy-duty Click on downloads. Download the last PDF file that list the Sprinter information and see if any of your numbers or information match.. Rich.

Hi Walt and welcome to FMCA. I'm not sure what your molding looks like, but this link might help or get you a lead. http://www.all-rite.com/insert-moldings-c-54.html Rich.

Jiminy, after looking at all the wiring information listed for your coach, there are no drawings for the ignition circuit other then a block diagram. So I think you will need to get the wiring information from the chassis manufacturer regarding this circuit, as it would be supplied with the chassis. I was hopping that there was some circuit info in the information from Winnebago. To get the proper information you will need the Vin. number. Rich.

Dives, Thanks for the update! Safe and Happy Trails. Rich.

dddlin, Listed are links to the service information for you system. I listed them not knowing how your coach is set up. They cover the 310 series when used is different applications. From your information it sounds like you can(could) lower the coach and retract the jacks , but not extend them. That sounds like no power to the hydraulic pump. Check for any lockouts that prevent the pump from getting power. With the work on the generator and the proximity of the HWH wiring, a connection, wire or fuse could have been compromised as suggested by others. http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml12771.pdf http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml21956.pdf http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml23521.pdf http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml23522.pdf Rich.

Jiminy, How are you making out? Page 71 of the information you can download pictures the power relay panel. It pictures the Run relay and the ACC / Run Relay 2 and some of the wiring. At the time I have not found the connections and harness information or drawings for the ignition key Sw circuits. The Battery disconnect relay circuit shows a 5 Amp fuse at the relay, so if you do not have any power when you toggle the circuit check for a bad fuse at the relay. There are 2 - 15amp circuit breakers in the main power panel that feed the Run Relay 1 and Run /ACC Relay 2. Rich.

It is a good distance between Rapid City on Rt. 90 to where you get to Rt.94 in Montana and at night they roll up welcome rug and turn off the lights. BTDT on fumes myself. Rich.

Hi Jim, With your AC service tech checking the system, I would think he ran a vacuum test on it before refilling it with freon. That just about covers the entire system for leaks. The one item that can cause an issue and is very hard to find or detect is the high and low points in the systems used to charge and test them for proper operation are the schrader valves and their seats. A small leak over time will allow the freon to escape. A bad valve or a bad seat that the valve seal sets in can cause the problem and is very easy to miss with standard test and charging setups. Hope these thoughts help find the problem. Thanks for your service! Rich.

Good morning Jiminy, This is a link to much of the wiring information for your model. Read it over carefully. Then download what you need or think will help. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Rich.

Hi Jim and welcome to FMCA. Brian asked some good questions. Could you post the Model you have like SD40AD or another model in the Vectra Series. Power to the key switch should come from a fuse / relay panel on the vectra series there are 2 panels in many cases. I keep thinking there is a disconnect relay / solenoid circuit with a blown fuse or fuse able link that may have failed in that circuit. Rich.

Thanks DD, I have one, so when it stops raining I will be using it. The comb I have has 6 sizes from 8 to15. One of them should do the trick, the fins are really messed up. Got a feeling it will take some time to make it work efficiently again. It took less then 30 min. to make a real mess. Edit-7-2-2013-- Well the fins are bad enough that a fin comb will not open them up, so I used a pocket knife to open each fin one at a time. Got about 80% of one unit done today and that made a big difference. As I get them opened up I will run a Comb through them and see if I can make them look a little better. Only 20% left on this one and one more to go. Rich.

This might be a possible supplier. http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageSize=20&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&pageView=image&autoSuggestURL=AutoSuggestView%3FcoreName%3DMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US%26serverURL%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252ftsc-prod-lb01.crossview.inc%253a3737%252fsolr%252fMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US&searchTerm=Trailer+Tires Rich.

While attending the FMCA Rally in Gillette WY. this mouth, wind driven hail did a job on the roof AC condenser units condenser fins. The back of the units faced the wind driven hail. The units still work, but with the reduction in air flow their efficiency is affected. Now that we a back home, I will post some pictures in the Photo Gallery section in the next few days; weather permitting of the damage and how to repair the damage. Rich

Hi Paul, got the information, slim to none regarding the wiring. More like a block diagram, like you mentioned not any real any help. Now this might be something you should check into. Recall--- http://www.usrecallnews.com/2012/12/thor-motor-coach-electrical-system-recall.html Rich.

Dave, We are frequent fliers with Enterprise. When we travel and are not going to stay in one place for an extended time we can get a set of wheels that match what we want to do. Truck or car. Also, one less thing to brake on the road. Rich.

Ron, found the information that I was looking for. http://www.duralite.net/node/15 They make both Radiators and CAC units. You will need to find a retailer for these units and an account to get there catalogs I have seen them and was impressed with there construction. Rich.

Hi Ron, I need to look over some of my notes to see what I can find. I do know that I grew up with Brass and Copper radiators and not to happy with the new ones. Rich.

Hi Paul, Your pictures show the slide controller and the control circuit fuses. They look to be 5 amps in size and you mention they are good. To check and see if they are slide control fuses, you can pull one and see if the slide goes out, if it did then see if it retracts with the fuse you removed. should it not retract then it would make sense that these are indeed the motor control circuit fuses and the box is the slide controller, not a battery isolator. The two items screwed to the wood block are auto resetting fuses, the size (amp capacity) should be on them. They control the high current circuits. Check them by reading for 12 volts between both sides and ground. I can not tell for sure if the larger wires are connected to theses fuses or not. The black units at the top of the picture are control relays from what I can make out from the pictures. Are there any numbers on the black box looking object (Slide Controller) other then STOP that I can read. Looks like an information label on top. The red wire with power, can you tell where it goes ? to a fuse or to the battery? The wire with no power looks like it loops up and around and exits to the right, and goes to where? The slide motor? or a relay / fuse? To run the motor in and out means the voltage across the motor must be reversed and the slide work. Where are you attaching power for the slide when it works? With shore power on, measure where you read 12 volts and then disconnect shore power and make some readings. Are they the same? You need to see or fine any different readings. making notes and label the wires in some manner indicating the difference. Now, looking at your drawings list all the numbers from the information you have on the drawings, Any numbers or model information on the bottom or top of the page(s) no mater how small and post them for me. I need to see if I can get a copy of the drawing you have, so we can have a better exchange of information. I will be on and off line over the next week, but I will try to keep an eye on your post and feedback. Rich.

Campcop might be talking about 3M Finesse-it II, Finishing Material. Contains on silicone or wax. Comes in quart size. Now, it is pricy, but I use it on clear coats, chrome, and my head light lenses to keep them polished. I use it only by hand to buff and polish. They mention using a buffing machine on an area 2ft. by 2ft. and I have done that, think I'm just old fashioned. Can see the luster reappear as I work in small areas. Think that you will find it a vary good surface cleaner. If you can find a body shop or doll-up shop that might us it, and get a little to try on a soft cloth. Use it in an area of the counter that might be along one edge of a wall or behind the stove or sink and see what you think. Then a coat of wax or good surface sealer / polish to finish the job. Rich. PS remember to keep items off the counter or have a rubber shelf pad under things, they will side off very easy !!!

Hi ddarstsr, Welcome to FMCA. I'm not the strongest when it comes to all the different Allison transmission setups, the electrical interfaces and how they get electrical power. I do hope that some of the members more familiar with your set up chime in with some information. Rich.