dickandlois

Kind of have a conflict, Have a Chapter meeting at the same time unless it gets rescheduled. So if I can make it I will sure try. Rich.

To those that want to stay with Windows 7. There are some steps to take for security updates. Just in case you missed the information on the web. As always check twice / read thoroughly and hopefully this will help. https://www.yahoo.com/tech/sticking-windows-7-sure-5-131519540.html Rich.

astmi. Look and see if your refrigerator has the new reset able temperature sensor in the chimney stack. It should be located near the bottom of the chimney - it is a round looking disk mounted on a support separate from the heat canister. Rich.

Judatt, does the Norcold frig work any different when on LP? Check the door seals very closely - clean the contact surface on the seals and the refrigerator, look for any openings in the seal rubber gaskets. Rich.

Could you post the Codes you are reading ? What is the Coolant level? Have you just changed the coolant? What is the oil level ? Does it shutdown without any load? Does everything work OK on shore power? Rich.

williames, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Got to think it is on whenever the step switch is turned on. A touch to light assist handle might be difficult to see in a low or unlighted area. Rich.

gdel64, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The low brightness issue was an LED driver circuit problem. The current issue is a logic circuit issue. The push button you use to step through the display and set up the items you want to monitor is software driven. The fact that you can hold the button and go to the diagnostics function, would tend to indicate that ether there is a gap in the software or a IC that steps through the memory data lines that has failed. No quick fix, but if you can contact Module Master and explain the issue, they might be able to offer a possible resolution. Rich.

John, I fought alternator failures for years. Changed to higher amperage units, installed different internal voltage regulators and they would work for 18 months to 2 years and start to fail. They mechanical parts have never failed, but the regulators start to breakdown because of heat. I always had a spare one when on the road. The alternator on Our coach is not hard to get to. So When it would start to act up, I just reached in to the engine compartment and disabled the energizer circuit. Then I started the generator and used it to power the inverter / charger to keep supplying power to the batteries. This worked fine. One morning I reconnected the alternator energizer circuit and started off on the next leg of our trip. The Alternator functioned fine unit the ambient outside temperature got to 85 to 90 degrees and it started acting up. Went back to using the generator to power the coach and chassis 12 volts the rest of the trip. Once at home it was time to find the part that was failing and why ! Removed to voltage regulator and inspected it very closely, Long story, but this is what happens when the alternators fail when hot and work fine again when they cool off !! THE regulator diodes fail do to a process call thermal avalanche point. They fail to maintain proper voltage levels because when the regulator is heated current flow is interrupted at say 13.5 volts, and the voltage drops unit it reaches a lower voltage point where the current flow settles at say 10.0 volts and stays there, but that level voltage and lower current output is well below what the engine systems require. Let things cool down and you can run again unit things heat up. Self healing to a point !!!! Rich. Note- I added a duct-work cooling system to the coach to keep the air temperature around the alternators cooler and all has been well for now. Pictures in the Photo gallery section of the Forum.

John, What is the outside temperature when the voltage starts to drop? You driving a Diesel pusher. Is the alternator located on the same side of the engine as the Exhaust system and turbo charger? Has the alternator ever been changed? I have a feeling that the problem come up around the middle of the day ! Rich.

Good point Kay, Nathan- The final test before connecting the coach to shore power might be, reading the resistance between the neutral pin and the Ground pins of the shore power cable plug. No short or resistance is good, No short between L-1 or L-2 and ground, with the main breakers open, with the mains closed and the feeder breakers open you should get the same reading. If not what is getting power / causing the resistance ? Then turn on and off each breaker you might read resistance if something is connected to that circuit, so check all the sockets for item plugged in. Before connecting to shore power open all the breakers, close each main one at a time. No pop, start closing each circuit breaker no issues. Repeat the process with the generator running. Then turn on the inverter and check that the circuits you have chosen to be powered check out OK. That should indicate everything is OK, The inverter/ charger should operate off the generator the same as when connected to shore power. Rich.

Mable, Maybe the moral to the story is to get your Coffee first, then connect up the water ! Got to feel for you. It would be easy to do on some coaches, because the fresh water and the Black water tank flush are real close to each other. Maybe some black or Brown tape on the black tank wash input and some Blue on the fresh water input. Good luck with the clean up ! Just remember readers, if it has not happened to you - it has not been your turn yet !!!! Things like this happen when your dressed to go to church or diner for some reason. Don't ask ! LOL Rich.

Herman, L-1 to L-2 would read 220 volts. L-1 or L-2 to neutral will read 120 volts. Some coaches have 2 inverters so there is 220 available. Rich.

Roger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the model and year of the coach you had the system installed on and any information on the model of the power gear system for the group? Also Is the emergency break system operating / engaging like it did when the jacks where installed. If there is a micro switch or other type sensor mounted on the brake assembly and the travel of the system or the sensor has moved. The jack system most likely is missing that information. Rich.

Could you post the model number of the refrigerator and the year of your coach for the Group? Same on 120 VAC as on propane? Rich.

Msawicki, You might ask for the part number for each year engine and for technical information on the part used on the 2007 engine and the one used on the 2010 engine. What changes where made that makes the new one better then the original - Or are they using the same design. If they are using the same design, why then would it not still be covered under the original service bulletin. You need to remain civil, but insistent regarding the information you are requesting. Also it might be good to ask who was on the team involved in weighting the original bulletin. Sometimes it helps to be a squeaky wheel ! Rich.

nat58, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Do you plan on doing the work or having it done? It is not done just by changing a few wires. The connectivity of the 3 different sources of 120 volts requires the use of relays, solenoids, time delay relays and circuit breaker panels, connected so any two supplies are not connected to the same point at the same time. A 30 amp system has one high side and a 50 amp system has 2 high side circuits, that fact kind of doubles the isolation issues. The 30 amp service supplies just 30 amps, but a 50 amp service supplies 100 amps. A little of your back ground and skill sets would go a long way in how the project might be handled. So if you want to send me a Privet Message(PM) using that feature of the forum.Go to my profile page and open a conversation at the send me a message button. Rich.

Some links to some information regarding the Vacuum plumbing for the old 454 engine and other links relative to maintenance of these chassis. http://workhorseservice.com/category/maintenance/ 454 - "V" Belt Layout Front Suspension Height http://workhorseservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/P-30-front-suspension-height.pdf A Guide to Brake Fluid Inspection & Testing http://workhorseservice.com/2015/11/why-change-brake-fluid/ Rich.

This is a link to help workhorse chassis owners find some of the harder to find parts. Workhorse Service.com for parts http://workhorseservice.com/shop/ A sampling of the Workhorse and GM parts we can supply. Most Parts are Shipped the Same Day! ... Precision Sales & Service. 451 64th. Place South Birmingham, AL. 35212 Hope this proves helpful to owners trying to keep there coach safe and in good operating condition. Rich.

This is a copy of recall #3 and what the service tech should be looking for. From the WorkHorse Technical Team Note: This is the third in a series of Workhorse Technical Reports with information that Workhorse considers most important in helping motor home owners avoid potential problems and maximize the economy, safety and enjoyment of their driving experience. We are seeking the help of the RV media in addressing these topics of concern, either by publishing the reports or by using them as the genesis for an article on the subject. This particular report addresses a number of RVer questions surrounding a recent Workhorse recall concerning a Bosch brake defect. If you’d like more information, a copy of a previous technical report, or to speak with a Workhorse source in more detail about a topic, please contact Mike Knaack at 574-294-8844/mknaack@taigmarks.com. I'm Not sure the contact information is still valid now the Naistar has discontinued building Workhorse Chassis ! What you need to know about the Workhorse Bosch brake recall In May 2009 Workhorse mailed an “interim notice” to alert affected Workhorse owners of a defect in certain Bosch brake caliper assemblies used on Workhorse W20, W21 and W22 motor home chassis models. Pending an approved recall remedy for the problem, the interim notice described the authorized interim repair procedure, at no cost to the customer, for those brake problems related to the defect. However, brake repairs related to typical wear and tear or other issues are still the financial responsibility of the customer. As with any recall, misunderstandings about the defect and about who is responsible for what often arise. This article will briefly explain the nature of the problem and how owners and technicians can determine whether a brake problem is related to the defect or not. Warning signs The problem is usually noticed as a sudden seizing or locking up of the brakes. It also typically appears in motor homes five years old and older that have not been driven for extended periods of time. Signs of the problem may include: • A distinct brake burning smell. • Having to apply more engine power to overcome an unaccounted for slowing of the vehicle commonly associated with brake drag. • An ABS light that is on continually. • Smoke coming from the wheel end. • A soft or spongy feel when applying the brakes. Owners of the affected chassis models who experience any of the signs indicated above should have their brakes inspected at an authorized Workhorse service center. The inspection is at their expense; however, if the problem is related to the Bosch defect, Workhorse will provide an interim repair at no cost to the chassis owner. Caliper assembly at fault The defect is related to the Bosch 2 X 66 mm brake caliper assembly. Each caliper contains two pistons that are made of a phenolic material that technicians will recognize as similar to Bakelite. If the motor home is not driven for extended periods of time (typically three months or longer), the phenolic material may absorb and retain moisture from the atmosphere, which may result in an increase in the piston diameter. Motor homes operated more frequently are not likely to experience any problem because the heat generated during braking under normal conditions inhibits the absorption and retention of moisture in the phenolic material. The piston clearances in the caliper are fairly small — the specified clearance of a new phenolic piston is .004 to .008 of an inch. Measurements of certain phenolic pistons taken from motor homes that have been in service for several years have shown an increase in diameter of up to .0035 inches. The caliper piston is designed for some expansion due to normal heat absorption during braking. During normal operation, the internal piston caliper seal pulls the piston back into the caliper bore when the brakes are released. However, if the phenolic piston expands due to moisture absorption and heat, the seal may not be able to pull the piston back (called “binding”), which may result in the brake pad dragging on the rotor. This can be hard for a technician to diagnose because if the brake pad drags as above and then the motor home is parked for a period of time (as short as 20 minutes), the piston may cool and decrease in diameter, releasing the piston from its binding condition. What technicians will look for, what is covered Diagnostic signs of the defect include: • Piston dust seals/boots that are cracked or appear discolored (white powder markings). • Front wheel seals that show signs of damage. • Front spindle caps that show signs of heat damage or leaking. • Heat damaged ABS sensors and wheel speed sensors; ABS sensors that have stopped functioning at various speeds and may have intermittent loss of function and associated fault codes. Rotors with radial cracks are NOT considered recall related damage unless there is other evidence of damage. Such cracks are typical of “riding” the brakes downhill, absence of a tow car brake system and continued hard braking. If the cracks are severe enough to merit replacement, that would be at the owner’s expense. Rotor colors also vary from vehicle to vehicle, and some discoloration and transfer of brake pad material along with brake pad wear is normal. However, if the rotor exhibits significant transfer of brake pad material, that may be related to the Bosch defect. Similarly, if the brake pads show a rough and damaged surface associated with significant material transfer, that would be considered defect related damage. Replacement of both rotors and pads in this case would be covered by the interim repair procedure. Affected owners will be contacted Again, Workhorse will notify all affected owners with instructions when the recall remedy is available. In the meantime, affected owners of W20, W21 and W22 Workhorse chassis should simply be aware of the warning signs noted above and have their brakes inspected just as they normally would should any question arise about their functioning. Rich.

Thanks Joe ! Think its getting close to a time when I'm going to add a second external hard drive. The 500meg is full - so will need to go shopping for the 1Tira bit size. The kids will never know what all the stuff is in the files, but maybe I can find a good home for it. LOL Rich.

Joe, Got to wounder a little about the product you mentioned in regards to using it for better lubricity as Bio already has a higher level then straight ULSD. Might ask your contact how they compared the product to the Bio fuels. Just curious ! Rich.

Joe, I have copies of a lot of the Workhorse manuals, and they list the torque specifications. Thing is, they very by Axle's used, so without some information on what is used on each chassis it is difficult to supply proper numbers. They picture the location of VIN numbers and the axle information on the axle used, but one would need to look under every chassis to know what parts in some cases to order the correct parts. An yes the listed lug torque on the web is way off from anything I have ever seen on much bigger trucks ! That is why I mentioned calling a shop that services The workhorse chassis and getting some good information on what set up in under the different frame's. OP decided to have CW do the work. In our area CW farmed out the chassis work to chassis repair centers. The shop manuals list most of the information needed, but no list of what setup is for different "W" series chassis. So there is no cross reference chart in the section covering the repair of items by chassis series, just by axle designation. Can not figure out what Navstar was thinking other then limiting the repair competition. Rich.

Sounds good, In hind sight the clue was the slide out sensor not indicating the slide was in and as soon as you went into drive the alarm sounded as it should. Thanks for sharing your fix with the group. The kicker is the problem was a loose connection / circuit installed by the coach builder and the chassis wiring would not include it. Rich.

jodan, The Shop manuals do include the wiring diagrams, but they tend to be generic. Getting the PDF files listed for your VIN number will be more likely to match up how your chassis is wired. Rich.

antnee10, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The torque range for your chassis is listed as 450 to 500 Ft. lbs., but I think it would be a good idea to check with a workhorse repair shop to get it. Things kind of depend on the axle series. that information will be VIN number sensitive. For the proper torque specifications you looking for you need to know what wheel end components your chassis is equipped with. Then you can ask for the proper torque specs. that you are looking for. MFS, MS and RS Series Wheel-End Components Rich.