dickandlois

Have you checked the water supply for a restricted screen in the input or output of the water solenoid ? Maybe a restriction right at the point it enters the bowl. Rich.

Fishhawk, The fact that you did have an air leak in the drier and they fixed it is not all bad. Leaks tend to get worse over time. Regarding the leveling system, Intermittent problems can be very hard to find and I'm thinking that Spartan did not want to charge to just start throwing parts at the problem an hope they fix it. From one of my prior posts in this thread, I posted the wiring colors. So it looks like you can engage the air ride before or after you start the engine to fill or dump the Air Springs. Air Ride wiring- in cab-Connector Pin #1==Green wire to dump circuit-wire at valve is Light green Pin #2==Blue wire to fill circuit-wire at valve is light blue. Only the Green and blue wires at the valve connection-2 pins Pin #3==Black / Ground point inside cab. Most likely at the common dash grounding point. The system power connection(s) could be an issue and have a intermittent connection. When I mentioned placing ride in the auto / travel mode and restarting the engine, that recycles the dump valve(s) and things might air up. Should that be the case then I would look into the possibility of the valve not cycling or a bad seal, internal to the dump valve. Rich.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Welcome to the learning curve we have all been on and if we trade coaches - it starts all over again! For starters: Try this when the gauge(s) do not go above 75 psi. Make sure the air dump switch is in the auto mode, then turn off the engine and restart it. See if the guage reading goes up to it proper level ! What happens? Have you had the ride height checked for the proper height? There are 3 valves, one for each corner of the front coach and one control valve for the rear. If they are not set to the same height, then any motion inside the coach will cause the system to use more air trying to maintain the out of spec. settings and some other strange things can happen. You mentioned that the repair shop used soap looking for leaks, but some times the manual and auto dump valves leak and then reseal. Did the service center mention the condition of the air dryer elements? Rich.

liedtkekla, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Question: do you use shore power most of the time? or run the generator frequently? Do you turn of your AC units and other loads before connection to shorepower or starting the generator? If the above questions are a yes then. The fact that you have had to replace the EMS 4 times, kind of makes me think, bad connections or wiring between the coach and shorepower cables. Possible loose or corroded connections at the transfer relay / solenoid. Bad ground connections. Do you have a multimeter to work with? Rich.

dddlin, There are a number of variables. Some batteries are just built better and quality is often related to price. Then there is the maintenance of the batteries, how often one checks the water levels in the cells and the condition of all the connections at the batteries and the charger. How often do you check or have the specific gravity of the cells tested. This test is very helpful in finding individual cells that are bad. Do you use a trickle charger to keep the batteries charger when setting for extended periods? Rich. The condition of the ground connections that are connected to the chassis, engine and alternator are key points

Joe, Could you post the model of your Atwood furnace? What year is you 39Z and do you have 2 furnaces? Rich.

jodellking, You have the wiring to disconnect and some mounting hardware holding the entire unit in place. Do you have the owners manual and / or the installation manual for your unit? Rich.

lebjdixon, Welcome to the forum! The NAPA part number comes back as a Battery Charger. I have tried different variations of the number and not found any reference to relays. So I'm going to play with the OEM number to see what comes up. OK the part is an 80 to 120 Amp rated unit from White Rogers. This is a link to a solenoid that should handle the current. The thing is they come in so many configurations. There are different size terminals and some solenoids are internally wired to isolate different wires or the unit itself from ground. http://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-586-105111-Solenoid-SPNO-12-VDC-Isolated-Coil-Normally-Open-Continuous-Contact-Rating-200-Amps-Inrush-600-Amps-14829000-p Rich.

Medico, Thanks for your reply, was typing a reply and hit the backspace key-LOL not what one wants to do **** Anyway, I see jleamont set a reply relative to the leveling issue. The spring disk he mentioned is an item I'm fermiller with and the spring mounting and those things can bounce around an that will upset the ajustments. Would be interesting to know if the board and wiring is the same on your friends setup. If the sensor is mounted on the board and it can move around, then I'm thinking the mount would need to be stiffened up somehow. Rich.

dmbamwarth, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I just found your post regarding the refrigerator issue. Thanks for taking the time to post the information. Rich.

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum!! Thanks for your feedback! Could you post information regarding the inverter. Was it changed from a Modified Sine wave unit to a Pure Sine wave type unit? Rich.

Medic, Sounds like your friend has the set up down pat !! Question, how often does he need to reset the level point(s)? and is there more problems on rough roads ? How far is if off most of the time? The fact that things are changing would lead me to the level sensor(s) and how well they are mounted and to what. A call to Country Coach might prove helpful in regards to the sensor specifications and the system tolerance. Rich. Note, you did not post the model of the System!

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! There are 2 items I would watch. The first would be the full extension of the front and rear shocks, then allow some head room for them to travel so the mounting bolts and the rubber bushings do not take a beating. You would need to adjust you speed to minimize the number of times they will top out. You know its going to happen and do not extend things so far that it cause a issues with the driveshaft spline separating. The second is the proper ride height to keep the drive shaft in proper alignment on the main roads and the best operating range for the shocks. You will need to do a little engineering should you decide to make a modification !!!!! The devil is in the details. Rich.

mspector, You could look into some plastic battery trays. They are made in sizes that match the battery Series, like series 31, 27 and so on. They are used on boats also and there are a number of possible web sights. They have a low spot in the center with a hole to let the acid drip out of and one can use the opening to direct the acid to keep it away from the battery tray by drilling a hole in the support tray. Rich. Note ! Before welding on the coach, you must remove the ground connections from both the Coach and chassis batteries to minimize the possibility of damaging the Engine and Transmission control modules and other electronics mounted in the coach.

This is a link to another product that will weld Polyethylene or High Density Polyethylene http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_poly_weld_adhesive/435 This product also uses the flame treatment mentioned in Clay's post. Have not looked around yet, but from looking at just the portion that is broken off the tank, would a swage type fitting work that would allow you to then attach the valve tree in a different orientation ? By chance is there a plastic welding shop in your neck of the woods ? Coaches do not do well when Off Roading ! BTDT and its difficult to fit them with skid plates. You might look at Polypropylene Bulkhead fittings-3in.,3 1/4in and 4 1/2 in. for water and storage tanks. Trick might be getting the internal portion inside the tank and would there be enough shoulder to get a good seal ? Kind of need a flat surface to get a good seal. Rich.

Thanks again Ray for the updated information. That is the kind of instrument cluster that is in many of the coaches. Rich.

UltraGlide, I have had GS road assistance and the one time I used it, there was no charge for the service to pick up a new tire, remover the damaged one and install the new tire. The service was timely considering it was on a Sunday and the tow truck operator was very efficient. No hr. fee was charged. So things may have changed over the years. I did have to cover the cost of the tire. The second time I needed a tow and used AAA+RV to have the coach towed in the Houston, Tx. area. The entire cost was picked up by AAA. The dispatch person sent the proper driver and equipment to properly connect the coach, disconnect and remove the drive shaft and supply compressed air to the coach. Again the service was properly done with a very informative drive, who took the coach via a Rt. to reduce any possibility of damage. Rich.

rlbarkleyii, Look at this link -- The information and picture at the bottom of the information, should provide you with an idea of what to look for. The round 6 pin plug is common on all units until 2004, when the connection was replaced with a rectangular stile connection. The coach builder connects the socket you need to any location that is available and no two models or different years will be located in the same place on many units. Have you ever had a diagnostics system run on you coach? If you have, The service shop that had to fine it to run the engine diagnostics. They should be able to point out where it is. http://www.silverleafelectronics.com/node/6 Rich.

Ray, Thanks for the information-Rich. I checked the link and it looks like most of there gauges are for Ford or GM units. Did not see any listing for Freightliner, Spartan or other chassis listed? Rich.

Thanks for the feedback regarding the failed part !! Rich.

Bruce, Check and see if your coach has a hot water heating loop connected to the engine cooling system. This is an option on some coaches. This set up keeps the water hot when you are driving. Rich.

mikerc, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You might try calling Allied Recreation Groups parts Department at 800-591-0628 and see if they can supply a new one or offer a possible repair. Web link is. https://rvparts.argrv.com The speedometer is supplied by the chassis manufacture and I think your coach is built on a Freightliner Custom Chassis. 1-800-385-4357 Rich.

dcharn, Welcome to the FMCA forum! As Brett mentioned - you request for information or help with a problem would not in any way be deleted from the forum! You mentioned having problems with the slide out. Could you please clarify the issue(s): Something like - it will not extend, problem when pulling the slide in, binding, not coming in or going out squarely / equally on both ends, blowing fuses,controls not working or some other issue. The better the information and the details will help the members to hopefully narrow down your problem. Any equipment information or model numbers from the controls or hardware would also be helpful. Rich.

rfsod48, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! You did not post the shore power wiring of your coach, having said that I do not think the use of an auto transformer on an RV would be practical, cost wise for the number of times one might need it. Plus the size and weight of one large enough to supply the current could also be an issue. The cost of running a generator when there is a low voltage situation might be a better option. The normal applications are motor starters, dimmers, static balancers (for voltage) Rich. If you are want some technical information on them - try this link. http://nptel.ac.in/courses/108106071/pdfs/1_11.pdf

cmturner, Many items can be repaired! Could you post a pictures of the area in question(close up image of the hole would be helpful) and I could post some information on material that might solve the problem. Also, not knowing what your tool availability and skill sets are-that information would also be helpful. Rich.