dickandlois

Tom, Have a wonderful trip!!! Paved roads sound good and with the road improvements, they should now have some bridges that where missing years ago. The one interesting item that I did not mention where the icebergs that we noticed in the strait between Newfoundland and Labrador. Our ferry ride across the strait was the last week in June. So if your not into big ice cubes, there should be less of them later in the summer. The fog can move in and stick around from time to time. We got to stay an extra week on one of the boys only fly in trips. The bush pilots could not get in the air or see the lake on other days to make the pickup due to thick fog one year. Keep us posted during your travels when you have network connections! Rich.

Tom, It has been many years (40) since our trip to Newfoundland and a ferry ride to Labrador. My young bride was wondering why Dad, my brother and I would travel there(We would fly in to do some Atlantic Salmon fishing). We had a 4 wheel drive truck for this trip with My Mon, Dad Lois and I.The roads at that time where - More like the Oregon Trail, not roads for a coach at the time and not much there. My city girl wife had never had an opportunity to travel and this trip proved to wet he appetite for the travels we have shared. The lasting memories have been remembering the Loons on the lake near the fishing camp, the bread recipe Lois copied while helping the cook bake early one morning (we still us it) and the number of stars visible at night. No city lights. The people where friendly and the towns where reminiscent of the late 1800's. I'm sure things have changed and I would hope the roads have been up graded to at least well graded gravel. Rich.

John, Brett mentioned using a coat hanger as a fish to retrieve the miss behaving wire(S) just might work. I'm wondering if the the light you changed out was one of the corner ones or one of the group of 3 in the center? A cost hanger with a hook bent into it and some luck, one might get a hold of them. I often use a piece of copper wire - I like the ground wire out of number 10 or 12 gauge Romex. It is softer an often works a little better when trying to fish wires from the center out to the edge / corner lights, but it still takes a few try's sometimes. One can splice 2 wires to the OEM pairs and pull them out through the fixture hole in question. Do the old lights use the twist in type sockets or does each wire connect to the fixture? Oh! I use 2 6ft. step ladders with a 10 or 12 in. wide plank run between them to work from, one can carefully walk back and forth between 2 locations much easier then climbing up and down multiple times. One other trick I have used: If you can get a fish wire between the two points. Tie / tape a piece of soft tubing to the fish and pull it back through between the holes. Should there be some obstructions(insulation) between them, the tube acts like a conduit to push the wires through. When finished pulling wires, you can leave it for future wires or just pull it out after securing the wires well at one end. Rich.

Miramichi Cruiser, With limited information, regarding the lens size an if they are flat or dome shaped you might try this link and see if by chance they can come close to what you might need. They mention matching any type lens. (Malcolite offers replacements for all lighting fixtures.) Just by chance is there any information or numbers on the good lenses? http://www.malcolite.com/index.php?id=9,36,0,0,1,0 Rich.

Chuck, Thanks for your feedback, we all get just a little bit smarter with each post !! Will I remember - not likely, but then I forget where I put a tool 2min. after using it ! Rich.

spexdr, Welcome to the FMCA Forum!! With the the vent system reverting to the defrost mode, that means there is a loose of vacuum. Capndave mentioned an issue with the vacuum reserve tank being an issue on his unit, so that is a possibility. It is rare for one of there tanks to fail outright-but there is a possibility of a crack developing where the vacuum line connects to the tank. Plastic items dry out over time and become very brittle !!! The other item you might want to address or have a mechanic do for you is to just replace ALL the vacuum lines on the engine as they also become dried out and start to crack and this cause the loose of vacuum under heavy loads, like climbing and acceleration. Vacuum issues can also reduce the MPG. This is where I would start to track down the vacuum issue. There are some other items that can cause a loose of vacuum, but vacuum lines are low cost - with the exception of replacing the vacuum reserve tank that Capndave mentioned and installing a tank in a different location can be far less labor intensive, After you have ruled out all the vacuum lines !!! The knocking can also be related to the loose of vacuum, that can result in a change in engine timing creating the knocking you mentioned. Rich. Note! 6-5-2015- Large engines develop a good amount of Vacuum when idling or under a low load condition. The decreased vacuum condition - caused by small leaks show up under heavy loads. So checking the vacuum while setting in a garage bay does not always find the leaks !

varnep, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! No real good Data regarding the Double Coin tires. They are made in China and have been marketed in the states sense 1992. I have not seen any information regarding there product from the over the road trucking industry. The only information I have regarding Double Coin from the NHTSA. MONROVIA, Calif., January 6, 2015 — CMA and Double Coin Holdings, Ltd (DCHL), a leading tire manufacturer and marketer announces formal notification by the National Highway Transportation and Safety Administration (NHTSA) on December 30, 2014 that they agreed with CMA position that the stated noncompliance is inconsequential to motor vehicle safety. According to NHTSA, no additional obligation for providing a remedy or notification is required. See more at: http://www.doublecointires.com/news/article/2015/84#sthash.klVuD8vN.dpuf Rich.

Keith, some additional notes regarding you error code(S) ! Note: the Data network uses low voltage pulses to transmit information. •Bus is made up of two wires: CAN_H and CAN_L. Terminate with 120 Ohm resistors. •Bus is differential. Voltage drop from CAN_H to CAN_L determines 0 or 1. •Dominant bit(0): CAN_H=3.5V, CAN_L=1.5V •Recessive bit(1): CAN_H=2.5V, CAN_L=2.5V With a voltage this low and any contamination at the Connections between the data harness and modules - errant codes can be generated. Have you or the service centers tried to hold down the Mode key for over 10 seconds to clear the error code(s) ? I highly recommend that you write down any and all codes before performing this operation !!! Then one could see if the system operates properly and or how quickly it resets codes! With the 2000 series transmission, there is the mechanical gear selector and it has a Reverse - Neutral Safety switch Assembly located right next to the gear selector. Rich. Mechanical issues. TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT TO FORWARD OR REVERSE (STAYS IN NEUTRAL) Engine rpm too high Reduce engine rpm (it may be necessary to reselect N (Neutral) also, and then D (Drive) or R (Reverse) Low fluid level Add fluid to correct level (refer to Mechanic’s Tips, MT4007EN) Throttle position sensor or linkage is not functioning properly Refer to Mechanic’s Tips, MT4007EN Faulty throttle signal from engine Correct engine throttle signal, Shift selector is not functioning properly Repair shift selector or adjust linkage Speed sensor(s) not functioning properly Repair or replace speed sensor(s) circuitry (refer to Section 6–3, SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT) Mechanical failure toC5 clutch Repair transmission Mechanical failure in transmission torque converter, shafts, or planetaries Repair transmission Low main pressure Repair transmission Faulty wiring in TCM Input / Output function circuits. Correct circuit wiring

alwillumitis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The Trip reset might be an item that can be programed into the speedometer system software. You might give Ford a call and see what they say. 1-800-444-3311. I see the coach is a 2008 model year, by chance are you the second owner? Rich.

Just a thought regarding the fan speed. When you first start the engine in the AM or after you have set at a rest stop for a few hours, does the fan speed tend to sound slower with less air movement. I'm thinking that when the engine is cool that the fan speed should be low until the temperature rises to the point that its speed needs to increase to maintain the proper engine temperature. The standard or should I say the proper way to control the fan speed is to have 2 temperature sensors located on the radiator - one near the top at the inlet corner and one at the outlet corner. Both can call for a higher or lower fan speed, should one fail then the default fan speed should be high as mentioned by Brett. That way if one fails there is always a back up, but if one is always reading high the fan speed would always be high. This set up would also facilitate the operation of a variable fan speed system. One corner hot the other reading a lower temperature so the fan speed should be low or at a medium speed. Rich.

Thanks for posting your updates Keith! Interesting that Allison mentions the code in one of there diagnostic code lists for the 2000 series Transmission. There is no code listed that match for the ECM! The trick is to find all the different modules used for the coaches and finding what appears to be proprietary information when it comes to codes. Now I need to see if the code is also mentioned for the MH3060 series. I'm curious about learning more regarding to the Data Bus systems anyway. From the information I have uncovered regarding the J1939 data bus, it has a maximum run length of 40 meters., there can be a number of branches around 3 ft.long and it has a 200 ohm termination resistance. That covers the mechanical potion well, but when one gets into the codes for the different modules - that is a real Pandora's Box !!!!! Rich.

That might be there recommended point, but I decided to have my valves adjusted at around 70,000 miles and it made a very noticeable difference. Rich.

Just got through reading you reply! Not knowing what items or hobbies you like, I,m wondering if something in a class B might meet your needs. Some models come with diesel engines that would provide a good amount of torque if you wish to pull a small Towd and the diesel would get you a good MPG number. The Class B's will go where the Safari would be something you would not just drive to the store for sure. If you are a member of FMCA, then you get the FMC Magazine that you might want to look at regarding use coaches for sale. See you live in the Southwest and should you find a possible replacement or would like a good evaluation of the Serengeti. you might try to contact Dave A. and if you think that might be an option - please send me a PM and I will see if I can get you in contact with him. One retired mechanic that can fix just about anything ! Rich.

RV grandma, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Could you post the Make and Model of you current coach for the group! Them we can compare it to the 2 models you asked about and offer some better information on how they might compare to what you currently are familiar with. Rich.

cascott1960, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Along with Herman's thoughts, you might take a look at the information at this link: http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/Resources/slaughter%20notes.pdf Hope it helps a little. Rich.

buzzw43, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Just need some clarification - Sounds like you tried to start the generator without the coach running, when you heard a click! Then there was no power inside the coach- Where you missing the 12 Volts at this time? Then it sounds like you started the coach engine OK and then where able to start the generator - with the coach running you have 12 Volts? With the Generator running do you have 12 volts? Now, without the coach or the generator running you do not have 12volts-- correct? If that is the case then there is a high current fuse mounted near the inverter or batteries that supply 12 volts to the coach circuits that might have blown. Is your coach equipped with a disconnect / salesman switch / relay circuit? Rich.

Red, Look at the front portion of the heater box, where the coil is connected to the AC plumbing. The plumbing connections for the condenser likely come out of the cooling section of the heater box - where a top and bottom section screw together. Sure would be nice if it can be changed out in this manner and not have to go from the inside. Rich.

Joe, The low side drops from the equalization pressure of 60 / 65 lbs,(when setting with the gauges connected) down to 40 lbs and continues to drop to below 25lbs. The system makes cold air and the low side drops on down to 5lbs or less. Keeps making cool air and the high side drops to 40lbs. When the system is making cold air (50 to 55degs.) the high side is running hot, but as the pressure drops to 5lbs. on the low side and 40ish. on the high side it just makes cool air. Then if I let it run, the system stops make cool air. Now, if I add freon the pressure will slowly rise on both the low and high side and go back to making cold air. The thing is the system does not go above 70lbs on the high side and will stick around 25 to 30 lbs. on the low side as long as I keep feeding the system it will make cold air, the high side gets hot and the pressure stays around 50 to 60 lbs tops. So the freon is going somewhere, an the system is dyed - with no indication of a leak in any of the visible connections or lines. No way to look into the evaporator area. So I'm thinking of opening up the system on the high and low side of the evaporator and see if it hold pressure and vacuum out of the system. Like I said, this is one strange fault !!!! Like the leak is present only when the system is running, the evaporator gets cold and then the pressures go south. Cracked solder connection on the condenser coil - that just opens enough to prevent getting a good charge level. ###!!!^^^&&& true frustration !!!!! Rich.

Kay, Thanks for the feedback! It sure has been making me fell like I'm betting my head against a wall! Interesting that there is no indication of a leek anywhere around the compressor. One would think the dye would show up somewhere on the Compressor!! Rich.

Keith, thanks for posting the Code number. I'm going to keep looking into possibilities. the one item that keeps coming up is Key on and the TCM did not receive ECM messages for 1 second. Time Out Error. The item that creates this error frequently is the neutral safety switch. There is a new term used for the switch, but I can not remember what it is! A defective Neutral safety switch or an adjustment issue with the switch, if its a mechanical style gear selector- generally does not allow the engine to start. This error is generated by the Transmission TCM - With all the communications of the vehicle electronics talking on the Control Area network / Bus(Can) also referred to as the J-1939 circuit. This is a link to the fault codes listed by Allison. Page 7 list your code. http://www.equipementsdelfosse.com/data/otc/genisys/FAULTCODEBOOK.pdf Hope the reset mentioned by Walt works for you. Rich.

Interesting Walt, Never would have considered that the ECM or ATM would have a reboot cycle!! Rich.

Red, Welcome to the forum! I think I just ran into the same problem 2 days ago while checking our dash AC. As Brett mentioned, there is a drain hole for the condensed moisture to drain. So if you are seeing water - that is normal! In ours it is looking like the evaporator, but I need to remove the kick panel in front of the passengers set to see if I can spot any of the system dye. The system charges and works-- no leaks or dye at any point in the system is viable, but it slowly looses charge when running and only when it is running. The key for me is the charge level never gets up to the normal pressures - the system pressure equalizes at between 65 and 70 psi - it starts cooling and as the temperature drops the charge drops lower until it just quiets cooling. Turn off the AC and letting the system pressure equalize and the pressure is about 5 to 10 lbs. lower each time I cycle it. So, I think there might be a solder connection with a crack in it and as the joint cools, the crack opens very slightly and it allows the R134 to leak out of the system. Worked on a number of AC systems and never had this type of problem before! Pull a vacuum on the system at outside temperature and it holds for days, pressure test the system and that holds for days. This fact has me going in circles, because if it holds pressure when just setting on a pressure test why will it nor hold the proper pressure when charging ? Never any indication of a leak. The coil comes out the front in many cases, but I'm thinking it might need to be removed from inside. The problem is, I have been in the area before an I did not look real close to see that time. There sure are a number of connections and hardware in the area. Oh, if your coach kick panel is fastened the same way as mine, you might fine a small magnet handy to find the screws hiding in the carpet material that hold the panel in place. Rich. OH, I forgot to mention that I found an issue with my gas welder regulates just yesterday and maybe I have error-ed in believing that the pressure I was reading when using them to pressurize the system was giving me a faulty reading and if that is the case them maybe I need to have my AC manifold gauges checked also. Strange, but strange things happen !!!!

Ron, The Control board is the primary culprit, but just for fun check the 12 volt level at the circuit board and check for a Good ground connection on the green wire connecting it to ground. While your at it use a clean pencil eraser and clean the circuit board contacts. You might get lucky and gain some time with the board, because it sounds like it is cycling properly. Rich.

Keith, You might give Monaco Customer Service a call. 877-466-6226. 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM Pacific Time. Ask if they can tell you of a way to read the code # or if you have a code number - what is it related to and how to address the problem. With the TCM and the ECM talking to each other it could be a fuel issue that is placed the Engine in Limp mode! Rich.

Peter, you might try looking around the Federal Mogul and National Seal sites for the caliper seals. They might supply seals for the master cylinder and cover. Rich.