hermanmullins

We have a 400HP ISL. Never had the blowby as discribed here. I did have loss of power and white smoke. (another story). It has been discussed that you need to extend the tube and put it in a better location aka outboard rather then center. My question is, could a small canister be made so as to catch the blowby and not allow it to flow into the air? Just a thought.

Well Bob in Ohio, welcome. It is good to know what great service you had. If you didn't please write Gary a note thanking him for the service he gave you. Everyone feels good when they are noticed for the work they do. Have fun on the West Coast.

Troy, Tom is right. Figure what up grades you would like. Then figure how much your payment on another MH would be. Take the differece between your current payments and subtract it from what a new payment would be. Set aside that much each month til you have enough for one up date. Then begin to save for the next up grade and so on. In a short time you will have an upgraded coach and not increased your payments. New RV loans are not for as long as they were. And besides you have already paid a lot of intrest on your current coach.

Right again. How about Turtle Wax? I have used it on old cars and it does a nice job at removing the oxcidation and I don't think it is too abrasive. Maybe there is someone out there that has had this material painted. I have heard different stories about how much it cost to paint an RV. It doesn't sound cheap. How about one of those places that makes graphics. They could cover it with what ever you want.

I looked up some 1987 GB MHs and found that corrugated is not a good discription for the panels. Ribbed would be a better word. The bottom portion of the MH has vertical ribs in the FG. That being said go to your local Boat dealer. Check with their parts and or detail person. When they prepare a FG boat for resale they can really bring out the sparkle. I know there are FG cleaners and restorers on the market. But once cleaned it must be kept cleaned and waxed or the oxidation will return (rather quickly). Hope this is some help. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!

woodlodge, welcome to the Forum. I see that you have a gas coach and I assume it is on a Workhorse Chassis. Hence Hydraulic Brakes. Your residue might be brake fluid or a front seal. Check your brake fluid level if it is low look for some type of leak. If fluid is OK look closely at the front seal. By you doing your own greasing you might be capable of changing out the seal yourself. This will give you a chance to clean inspect (replace if needed) your wheel bearings and seals. (Both sides). But who knows, a dog might have relieved himself on the wheel and the residue is road film. Good Luck,

As a Navy Vet, I have always understood that the President is our Comander-in-Cheif. I have not always liked that person but do respect the office. This is the first time in my 73 years that I find it hard to keep that respect. I think that most everyone that reads this forum has served their country at some time and beleive that most feel the same as I. GOD Bless America and GOD Bless our Troops!

Tom, we have had two Monacos. I like to look at the Fuse and relay panel found in front of the front drivers wheel. Everything is soo perfect. Them look under the dash panel. Every wire is 2 to 3 feet long,except the one you need. That is the one that is so short you can barely move it. Spagetti is the perfect word for it. Director, if your switch is like mine it is just inside the dash, like Tom said, and is easy to remove. To pull the pin(knob) there is a button on the side of the switch. Press the button then try to pull the pin out. Don't get frustrated, it will come out. Then remove the nut on the face of the dash and the switch will be loose and you can remove it. Make the wire locations and take the switch to your parts house to match it with a new one. By the way, look at the back of your switch and check the reostate(?). Check and see if there might be some corrosion. This might be your only problem. GOOD LUCK, and Happy Travels Herman

Brett, Thanks I have printed both and will review them tonight. Herman

Tom, we are talking about a retired Marine. Do they have these forms that read real slow?

Brett, How about a little lesson on the DEF for diesel engines. I for one don't know much about this new technology. I am sure there other in the same boat as myself. Thanks in advance.

What is that great quote about Great Minds. All good ideas. Semper Fi, Hu Raw, and Anchors Away to ALL.

Just carry a lot of hanging cloths so that they can't sway back and forth. I have traveled for many years (by car) in my job. My cloths rod in the back of my SUV let my cloths slide back and forth both blocking my rear view and droping them. I have done several things: I have put rubber rings on the rod in several places so the hangers can more very little. I have put rubber bands on the rod for the same purpose. I have seen plastic tubes that are ribbed that go over the rod for the purpose of stopping the hangers from sliding. A bungee cord pulled tight over the rod might hold the hangers from jumping off also. Good luck and keep your clothes on (the rod).

Great explanation on the wiring. Brett, if this member is having both the house and the coach batteries going dead, it seems there has to be some sort of drag on them and his inverter is not keeping up or not working. If there is something dragging down both batteries down he might also have a bad isolator. The only thing on should be the radio/clock. When we had a drag on the battery (years ago) we would pull the fuse for the radio & clock. Remove the positive cable and jump between the post & cable. If it shows voltage, begin to remove fuses one at a time until the voltage drops to zero. Check what that fuse powers and correct the problem. I like the idea of checking to voltage without power to the coach and then with power to see if the inverter is charging.

thomasalter, Do you have a smart wheel? (cruse control/wiper and so forth on your steering wheel). If so check out your controller in your electrical service area. I had a similar problem and found burnt wires going to the box. I got my replacement from the mfg. of the Smart Wheel. Since the two leads that were burnt were power in leads I put inline fuses on each. I found mine while looking for a bad relay and noticed the burnt connection. Replaced controller added the fuses and now 2 years later no problem. www.vipwheels.com Click on: "Tech Support". Look at the SM 209 or SM 210 unit. The J-12 plug was the one that was burnt. Hope this helps.

Woodlodge, Welcome to the forum. Many folks use a curtain behind the driver when using the dash ac to keep cool. Of course if you have passengers you might need additional cooling (gen and roof ac). I feel that our comfort overrides the MPG. You will love Yellowstone!!

Understood. I looked up VW Beetles from 1970 thru 2008 with Blue Ox, and although it is not listed as towable they do make base plates for the Beetle. I feel as you do that VW does not want the liability. But like everyone I have seen many being towed, to the beach, the deer lease and Rallies. Keep up your good work.

Welcome to the Forum. There should be no problem pulling any standard shift transmission auto. 1) Check the FMCA dingy towing guides. There, you can find your year auto and look for your make. 2) Check the Web for Tow Bars and Base plates. 3) Have it installed buy someone that is familer with tow bars and RV's. 4) Then Hook UP and go RVing. Happy Traveling tsmithers

One other factor is rear axles. Single or double. Will tag axle rise to help turning. I look forward to a lot of the answers to this question. Regards

Glad to be of help. I have a small lower lobe in my heart for Okies, my wife is from Afton, OK. However I have had her down in TEXAS for more then 46 years +.

Williamhorn, I had a 1992 Windsor and had problems with my fan. It was not a fuse, bad switch or fan it was a loose ground connection on the fan. Under your dash panel in front of the passengers seat there is a panel. If I remember right there are several screws that hold the panel up under the right side of the dash just inside the door. After you remove the panel feel up to the fan motor. there is a ground lug where the fan connects to the housing. Check for a loose connector. After replacing the ground several times I got pliers and put a little pressure on the connector where it would stay on the lug. If you need more help send me a message with a number I can reach you and I will be glad to help you. It is a little hard to describe in writing but easy in words.

By the way Wayne, HAPPY BIRTHDAY and Semper Fi.

If you are in the Texas area you might call North Texas RV in Denton, TX. Ken has a paint booth that can accommodate any size RV and they do very good work.

There is a place in Dallas, "Drive Shaft Knig", that will make you a disconnect while you wait. If you don't have any better luck with Remco, Google "Drive Shaft King Dallas, TX". If you have a steel drive shaft they will modify your shaft, but if you have an aluminum shaft they will make you a new drive shaft. I know, an OKIE coming to TEXAS for help, But what the hay, if you don't tell, I wont tell.

I have the Blue Ox Tow Bar and base plates on my Dynasty & GMC Yukon. I Have the M & G Engineering Brake system. It works on your air brakes. Check out M & G at http://www.m-gengineering.com/ Great system. New unit has life time warranty, Remfg. has 5 yr. warranty.