hermanmullins

There are many cities in West Texas and in the Texas Panhandle that offer free overnight parking. Many have 30 amp service for free. Most are first come first served. As for inexpensive travel, let me tell you a story of our very low cost trip. We left McKinney, Texas, our home, late one afternoon on our way to Cheyenne, WY. We got to Blackwell, OK late and found several Travel Trailer parked in the Braums paking lot. We spent the night and the next morning went in for Bisects & Gravy and to thank the Mgr. The manager said that was why they had their lot striped so weary travelers might rest and be safe on the road. We got to Cheyenne that afternoon and spent three days tethered to our sons elec. We then went up to Custer, SD where all the RV Parks were closed for the winter but one. He said that he had already drained the water lines but had elec, sewer and we could fill our water tank from their facet. Sounds good to me, how much. He asked if $10.00 per night would be too much. No way thanks. We spent two nights in Custer then went East across South Dakota the next day. Had a hard time finding a place to stop and ended up in a rest area south of Sioux City Iowa. The next day we parked in the Walmart in Overland Park, KA and spent the night with my wife's sister. Then we went down to Miami, OK and parked for three night at my mother in laws where I had already wired their garage for 30 amp power. Then we went home. 4,400 miles, wonderful trip, visited lot of interesting places and spent a total of $20.00 for parking. So if you are able, always ask permission, keep your spot clean, go in and thank the manager and spend some money with the owners. Lots of luck and have a wonderful 2 months on the Highways and Byways.

Let me be the first to "Welcome you to the Forum." We have found that when we are moving down the highway in hot weather, we put up a curtain we made. It goes across the coach just behind the driver and passenger's seat. It will keep us very comfortable with the dash air. If, however, you have guest along for the ride, you will need the roof air. If you can run the roof air to cool down the coach before you begin to travel, then it should maintain the cooler temp. We, when just the two of us, will also turn on the gen set about 30 minutes before we are going to stop for the night to help begin the cool down. Good Luck and Keep your Cool.

Question: Does anyone know if any of the Military Campgrounds are open To Vets as well as retires?

The Brake Buddy is an air cylinder that has its own air pump. Each time you apply your brakes it uses air and the pump must recharge the system. That is one of the reason your battery is being discharged. When your Battery is discharged your Brake Buddy is useless. I believe the reason you must turn the key to the ***. position is to release the steering wheel lock. My Yukon doesn't have a steering wheel lock. So after I put it into 4X4 neutral I turn off the key, remove it and lock the doors. My braking unit is a M & G Engineering air brake. No lifting a unit and putting it in front of the seat, clamping the rod to the brake and hopping I have it set right and that it will not move and put pressure on the brake. All I do is hook up the air line between the coach and car. There is a safety cable for emergencies. Yes it will make the brake lights come on when applying your brake, but with the proper wiring diodes you will use the coach power for turn signals and emg. flashers. Anyone that reads the Forum knows I toute the M & G unit. Take a look at it.

The air connection in the front of your coach is to connect the tow trucks air brakes to your air brakes. As Brett said DO NOT connect or cut into your air system. Look into all of your compartments for a air chuck. On our Dynasty the air chuck is in the front left (drivers side) compartment. It is also a access door for my fuel tanks. I am willing to bet you have one some place. You didn't say what coach you have. You should contact your coach manufactuer and ask if there is one. Until then go to your local or on the road truck stops to air up your tires. Good Luck and Happy RVing

I find it hard to believe that you can not access your valves from the compartment. If this is a fact might I suggest you find a way to remove the panel covering the valves. I had a water valve problem and had to replace it. It also looked as if it was inaccessible. It is accessible now-- I made a cut out in the plastic panel. I found some paneling trim to join two wall panels together. If I every have to go into the valve again all I have to do is slide out the trim remove the cut out and wala! I have access. Again look real hard to see if you can find an access. They do have a cap that goes on the hose connection the will stop the waste from dripping into the compartment. Good Luck.

Flipper, welcome to the Forum. We have had three Motor Homes, 28 foot no slide, 32 foot no slide and a 40 footer with two slides and a tag axle. The 28' was cute, the 32' was nice and the 40'er is out of this world. It drives and handles better the either of the other two. We have good storage for all of our extras and good room on the inside because of the slides. Slides began to appear in RVs in the early part of 1994. Some sooner. They did, as most new things, have their bugs, but coach builder have few or no problems now. And now a coach with no slides are hard to sell. Most people want the slides for comfort and are not afraid that they have an extra hole in the side of thier coach. If one really thinks about the structure thay have extra support due to having to have a frame around the opening in the coach and the extra frameing for the slide. All that being said, have you had or do you now have a motor home? If not, let me suggest that you go and rent one for a week. Take it out and see what you do and don't like. This will help you decide what you need. If you don't like Rv'ing it will be a lot less expensive then buying one and then finding out you don't care for it. Also I garentee that what ever you buy, in a short time you will be at an RV Show and see something else you like better. So I advise that after you purchase a coach do not go to RV Shows for at least one year. Good Luck. Happy RVing.

I had the same problem with my 98 Windsor. I found that Dirt Dobbers had built their mud huts in the solenoid exhaust port. I found the nest as I was removing the solenoids for replacement. After cleaning the port my dump worked fine. You can and I did purchase filter screens for the ports. Hope this helps.

I believe you must have a single unit receiver. See if you can get a DVR and I think you may be able to record and watch a different channel at the same time. I don't beleive it the satellite thats the problem. If you have Direct TV in your home and have a DVR move it to the coach and see if you can record then. If so then just get another DVR. Good Luck

I agree, the 4000 is air cooled. I also beleive it is a splash lube engine. I don't think it has a low oil sensor. I had a 4000 some time ago and it did get hot due to poor air circulation, it did not shut down and melted most all of the plastic parts in the gen. side. Burned up the stator, cost high, replaced the gen. GOOD Luck.

Check with Coachman, I understand they own Georgie Boy.

There are so many thing a person can do to increase Horse Power. But there is a cost invloved. A person has to look at the overall picture before making such an investment. How often do you use your RV? How many miles do you travel a year? How much increase milage will you get from the dollors spent? As an examlpe, if you improve your milage by 10% and you are now getting 8.0 MPG,That will be an increase of .8 MPG. At that rate, how many years will it take you to recoup your investment? Just my take on the subject. You'all Have a Great Day!

Have you ever tryed to stop your car(with power brakes) with the engine not running. It tklaes alot of pressure to over ride the Power Brake Booster. Th AF-1 unit seems to be a pull unit on the brake pedal. Therefore you are putting alot of pull on the pedal. Take a look at the M&G Engineerimg Car Braking unit. It is an Air Cylinder between the Booster and the Master Cylinder. It pushes the master cylinder and not through the Booster. It hooks up just like the AF-1 with one air hose. The safety is an air cylinder that incase of disconnect it will lock down your brakes. I have had the unit for 4 years and no problems. Take a look http://www.m-gengineering.com/.

Pattie, My wife uses a 3 ring binder and blank copy paper. She records her thought and daily activities we did. Every so often she types it up. She then has time to elaborate on what she has written. She has a file in the computer for the journal and we keep a copy to read from time to time. So just jots down notes for the daily travels and elaborates later. You know a story gets better the more times you tell it. Good luck and Happy RVing.

Glad you found the panel. I reread my post. My bad, if you turned off your pump and drained the water like I said your carpet would dry out anyway. Because even if it was a drain problem without water running you would not have been able to detect a leak. That being said, look around the base of your shower. Mine has a small panel that you can see under the pan. You might find signs of a leak there. If you don't find any sign of a drain leak it may just be a need to caulk as you said. Glad you found that it was not a pressure leak in the line. Good Luck

Brett, you just gave out some very good information. I didn't know that just running your engine to operating temp (water) and not driving to get the oil temp up would cause moisture in the crank case. Good to know. While on the subject, how about the gen. set. Do you need to run the a/c to give a load to get both the water and oil up to operating temp? What would be a good guide time wise since most gen. sets don't have temp gauges. I did know that you need to have a load on the gen. when running. Again, good info.

You might ask RAMCO what glue they use and if they have changed it since your coach was made. They may have had a problem with one glue over another. (Or it was assembled on a Monday and the glue guy might have had too many adult beverages over the weekend.)

Gary, There is a service your land line provider has that is very helpful when you are away from home. If you have an answering machine, they can automatically forward you incoming call to your cell phone after X number of rings. You can set the number of rings. Just give them a call and they can set it up for you. Many phone companies have call forwarding, however you only have to turn off your machine when you leave for an extended time. Gary (garykd), you make a very good list. People going on a trip could make a copy for a check list.

Ditto to what Brett said, welcome to the Forum. On the wall in your bedroom look to see if there is a panel that can be removed. Most (but not always) mfgr. will put an access panel where there is plumbing in a wall. If there is remove the panel and see if you may have a seeping water leak. Also you might turn off your pump, drain off the pressure and wait several days and check if the damp spot drys. If so it is a water pressure leak. If not then it may be a drainage problem. But as Brett said check with your mfgr. they can direct you to access to water and drain areas.

One realy good place to start is at Winnebago Service Administration 800-537-1885. I have always found that the Manufactuer is the best place to begin a search with a motor home. Dealers can also help.

Michael, There could be different causes depending on your Auxiliary Brake System. Is it an Exhaust Brake or a Jake Brake? One affects the exhaust and the other affects the valves. If it is an exhaust brake it may be sticking. However if it is a Jake Brake it could be in the electrical system. You need a service tech to look at it. I may have my terms wrong but you get my meaning.

If you have Hydro Jacks it is always good to dump before you level. This way your jacks don't have to extend so far to level the coach. Brett is correct when you level different coaches. However Brett you left out one very important step, "dump/level/extend slides and @*%()!". Again in the order set out by the manufacturer. Good question and good answers.

The slide locks on my front slide dosen't seem to want to release. Therefore we can't open the slide. Anyone out there know if there is a release? 2002 Monaco Dynasty. 40 foot, 2 slides, Front giving problem.

JR, you bring up a very valid point. We have the M&G Braking system with the Yukon wired with diodes for the lights. I have never thought that when I put the brakes on in the coach my brake lights would work both through to brake light switch on the Yukon as well as through the wireing by pass. I have never had any problems with my batteries because everything is turned off and only (now I know) the brake lights use any power from the Yukon Battery. It just goes to show "That you are never too old to learn".