wolfe10

bobts, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two primary ways to add a charge line from RV to toad: Manual: Buy two in-line fuses, enough 8 gauge or larger wire to go from coach battery to trailer plug and from toad plug to toad battery. Fuse at coach battery, fuse at toad battery. Heavy gauge (at least 8 gauge) wire between with either separate plug or incorporated into the existing coach to toad plug. Upgrade ground wire to same gauge between coach chassis and toad battery negative. The toad battery will charge from coach battery anytime it is connected. Automatic: Add to parts list above: 40-50 amp relay and some 14 gauge wire to wire the ignition hot and relay ground. Same, but from fuse on coach battery go to RELAY. Relay closed by "ignition hot" source. The toad battery will charge from the coach battery ONLY when the ignition is on.

Excellent. A cheap fix!

Yup, Carrabelle is a LOT quieter! Cute little town-- spent some time there on our way to Perry this winter.

Quite likely we are dealing with two virtually unrelated issues: Can a vehicle be towed 4 wheels down-- FROM A MECHANICAL STANDPOINT. Does the manufacturer deem the extra business gained by endorsing the towing of their vehicle exceed the liability and warranty issues? Said another way, a corporate marketing/legal department issue. We have seen cases where identical vehicles badged by different manufacturers (Ford Ranger/Mazda PU comes to mind) had different answers to the towability question.

I agree not to leave a wire live, but if you disconnect at the breaker and at the GFI, it will not be live.

Before wasting too much time tracing that wire, you might consider just running a new wire from breaker to GFI (depends on how accessible it is) and disconnect/tape off the old one).

Actually, a much better chance of getting a rust-free coach in CA than in CO. Same with Texas, NM, AZ, etc. vs up north.

No, the ignition solenoid is likely up front. The ignition switch is used to close the ignition solenoid which then powers all things that only work with ignition on. You would burn up an ignition switch if you tried to run all those high amp things through the switch itself-- dash HVAC fan for example.

"Not even dash lights when I turn on the ignition (with 12.7 VDC) suggests either a bad connection between batteries and dash OR a bad IGNITION SOLENOID. Start by verifying voltage at the chassis battery side of the ignition solenoid. Then with key on, that you also have voltage at the "far side" of the ignition solenoid. If the ignition solenoid is not completely bad, a light, sharp rap with the handle of a screwdriver can sometimes free it up (temporary fix).

No this is not normal. Virtually any shop can pressure test the cooling system-- not different than on a car or truck. We can NOT tell you if it is safe to drive. It could continue to be a small leak, or a weak hose or bad hose clamp could come off completely.

That low mileage is certainly a yellow flag (not sure it is a red flag). Part of the answer depends on how the coach was used. If it has been sitting for the last couple of years, that is likely a red flag. I would also want to see service records showing that fluids had been changed based on time, since mileage did not appear to be the service trigger.

I have always used a 3/4" breaker bar and 6' thick wall iron pipe that fits over the breaker bar. 180 pounds dead weight (no muscle) on the end of the 6' bar generates over 1,000 lb-ft of torque. You do need boards or bricks as fulcrum for the rear wheels.

As already said, the refrigerator PC board operates on `12 VDC. Low voltage CAN cause issues!

Kevin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked that the thermocouple is properly located in the flame. If the PC board does not receive "the flame is going" it will turn off the propane.

DJ, Can you post a picture of it?

Yes, 12 VDC refrigeration has been around for a long time-- every one of our sailboats had 12 VDC refrigeration. Not sure why it is styled "solar powered"-- sounds like a "buzz word". The source of 12 VDC, whether shore power/charger, generator or engine-driven alternator really or solar makes no difference.

tlbray, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have received some bad information. Yes, many late model diesels require DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid). Current prices of DEF are under $3/gallon: http://www.pilotflyingj.com/fuel-prices As far as DEF consumption vs fuel consumption: https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/.../MB10033.pdf On page 6: Q. How can an operator determine how much DEF they will need/use? A. DEF consumption will be approximately 2% of the diesel fuel consumed. Another way to consider it is that DEF will be consumed on a 50 to 1 ratio with diesel. (For every 50 gallons of diesel fuel burned, you will use 1 gallon of DEF). If you know the average fuel consumption of a vehicle, you can easily calculate the amount of DEF that will be used. Not suggesting you want a coach with this system, but DO want you to have the FACTS!

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what you will be towing. And what motorhome?

Some residential refrigerators will run on MSW, many will not. With the huge price difference years ago, there was a reason for MSW. Today, I personally would strongly recommend a PSW inverter.

Willson, A couple of points: 1. If you called an auto manufacturers customer service line, it would be EXTREMELY RARE for the person on the phone to know anything about machinery, particularly on a model (and even Division) that is no longer in business. This is basically an entry level position. I am retired from the automobile business, I knew many of these people first hand. No way for a company to pay qualified mechanical to answer the phone! 2. Through the years, auto manufacturers have changed their towing policies. And in very large part as a liability issue, not a mechanical one. 3. FMCA Staff does an excellent job of verifying towability 4 wheels down. And, as of the time of publication, your model WAS listed as towable 4 wheels down. I would check with Remco to get their read on this.

Yes, according to the FMCA Towing Guides for 2009 (yes, you must be an FMCA Member and signed in to view the towing guides), it IS towable 4 wheels down.

Thanks for the update. I am surprised that performance had not also suffered with loss of boost due to bad hose clamp (air leak on intake side) at the CAC. Also, you mentioned cleaning the radiator. Did you also clean the "cooling package" from the FRONT? The CAC is the "first thing in line" in the cooling package so, that is where the vast majority of the dirt will be deposited. It can only be cleaned from the FRONT-- access under bed or closed.

SLSettles, et al; Actually both your perspective and that of several other is looking at the same problem, rationally, BUT from different perspectives. BOTH/ALL perspectives are important: Peak amps on start up, running amps, MSW vs PSW, one large inverter vs separate small one for residential refrigerator, inverter with build in ATS vs separate ATS vs having to move plug manually from shore power outlet to inverter powered outlet, on and on. Said another way you have brought good perspective to the discussion, and so have others. I hope the dialogue has been of benefit in making our decisions. NOTE: One thing we all need to keep in mind (PLEASE): It is fine to challenge someones ideas. It is NEVER OK to challenge/attack another person. Let's keep the FMCA forum a friendly, as well as helpful site.

The price gap between a good MSW and Pure Sine Wave inverter has diminished quite a bit. Particularly with the move to more sophisticated electronics, were I replacing one today, I would go with Pure Sine Wave.

Actually, the Federal GVWR sticker indicates the correct tire pressure FOR THE OE SIZE/LOAD RANGE TIRE WHEN EACH AXLE IS LOADED TO IT'S GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). That is the recommended PSI ONLY, repeat ONLY if the axle IS loaded to it's GAWR!!!