wolfe10

Greg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, been using that site for years.

Yup, if you have a Caterpillar secondary fuel filter base, you will have either a manual primer pump, or if the chassis maker's bean counters made the decision, a block-off plate. A Caterpillar manual primer pump can easily (two bolts) replace the block-off plate if that is what you have. A VERY good idea.

Yup, trailer. And you will be VERY welcome anywhere you go.

Yes, an diesel-compatible ball valve on the inlet to the primary fuel filter is a VERY good idea. If fuel level in tank is higher than the primary fuel filter base, fuel will run out. If level in the tank is lower, VERY BAD things happen-- fuel siphons back to the tank leaving you with 25'+ of air in the fuel line! So, better for a little fuel to run out. If you have a manual primer pump on the secondary fuel filter housing, you install both filters dry (just put oil or diesel on the seals before installing them). Then unscrew (counter-clockwise) the kurl nut which is the handle for the pump and pump in and out. It will go from easy (air) to hard in just a couple of strokes-- may take over 50 strokes of easy before it starts to get hard to pump. When hard (fuel is not compressible) push in the kurl nut to its "full in" position and tighten in place (clockwise). If no primer pump, both filters need to be installed FULL of diesel. A lot messier and still can have some air in the system.

bruceschindler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Both can be worthwhile additions to your chassis, but for you issues, I would start with a rear track bar. If you will be in Perry next week for the FMCA Convention, come to the Suspension Seminar: Saturday, March 19 11:30 a.m. to 12:45 p.m., Seminar 5

Good. Your primary fuel filter is 12 micron, a good choice. And the secondary is the proper 2 micron Cat one. When you look at the secondary filter, is there a manual primer pump on the housing? That will dictate the procedure for changing the filters.

Yup, go back to my last post and let us know exactly what you have-- Will send you a PM.

OK, let's go step by step: You need to find the secondary fuel filter (if you have one!). If you do, the primary filter will have between a 10 and 30 micron element. Then, the secondary filter will be a 2 micron element (per Caterpillar specs). If no secondary fuel filter, then the primary fuel filter will need to have a 2 micron element-- BIG difference. The reason you need to locate it, or verify that you do not have one is that the filter change procedure is different if you do/do not have the manual primer pump that would be on the filter housing for the secondary fuel filter. Also, post the part number for the filter you are using-- that will tell us what micron rating it is. Telling us what coach/chassis you have may also help identify what fuel system you have (fit by chassis maker, NOT engine maker).

Carl, Being discreet, I think you can bring what you like. Contents of a Yeti cup, for example, are your business. No, this is not an "official position", but my opinion. See you there.

Roy, Do you have a clear bowl primary fuel filter or metal bottom filter? The purpose of opening the drain is ONLY to see if there is any contamination in the fuel-- both dirt and water are heavier than diesel and would settle to the bottom of the filter. So, you only need to drain enough to verify that no dirt or water are in the fuel. So, on most cases, only drain 1-2 ounces. Fuel SHOULD continue to run out the filter if the level of the filter drain is below the level of fuel in the tank-- just straight physics. Now, if you are changing the fuel filter, let us know and we can give directions. If this is the issue, do let us know if you have a Caterpillar secondary fuel filter with MANUAL PRIMER PUMP. That makes a difference in how it is done.

Kent, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. My concern is that there will not be enough ISX 600 HP's in RV's on the road for you to get relevant feedback. Have you visited with a Service Manager at a large Cummins dealership-- probably a good source of info if you can get him to open up about the issues?

It is just a week from today: Thursday, March 17, 5:00 p.m., in seminar 5 (Georgia Building). Feel free to bring a beverage of your choice and a snack to share.

If you are one of 50,000+ registered members of the FMCA Forum come put a "face with that screen name". Mark your Convention Calendar. Look forward to seeing you there. Thursday, March 17, 5:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. in Seminar 5 (Georgia Building). Feel free to bring a beverage of your choice and a snack to share. Brett Moderator FMCA Forum

JamieL, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked for 12.0+ VDC at the water heater PC board?

Bigben, Are you talking about the sway bar end link bushings (two missing). There should be a total of 8: 2 below sway bar, 2 above sway bar. 2 below chassis frame rail, two above. If any are missing or even badly worn, it would sure make a racket. Replace with polyurethane bushings. A very easy job.

Roger, It is common to route some things directly from the house battery, not through the "salesman switch". Things like refrigerator, propane detector, etc. A schematic of your wiring will tell you what devices and perhaps lights SHOULD be hot with the disconnect switch in the off position. And then you have the "what did they wire incorrectly" factor. I agree a 2.2 amp draw is quite a parasitic load. See you in Perry.

Also boils down to what vehicle you want to drive around when you are in a location for a long time. Rarely is a HD one ton dually the "ideal" around town vehicle.

Ya, there will be a bunch of us there.

Actually, not sure he should go ANYWHERE until verifying that what he is experiencing is abnormal. Again if the downshift brings RPM up to around peak HP RPM, all is well!

Ray, THREE choices in our coach: 2 ceramic heaters (first choice when on CG power) 2 15k BTU heat pumps (second choice if temperature above 40 degrees F) Propane furnace

Not sure brakes are something I would buy off the used market, except from the manufacturer.

Don't have specs at my finger tips, but important numbers are what is: Peak torque RPM Peak HP RPM When your foot is to the floor, the transmission should keep you toward peak HP RPM.

Like others, we mounted a 12 VDC pump-- in our case on a piece of scrap plastic (would not absorb water). Then 5' of clear plastic hose on inlet with female hose fitting and 5' of clear plastic hose on outlet from pump with male hose fitting (to hook up to coach water inlet). Can hook female/inlet end to hose or put in bucket, etc.

Actually, his RPM/speed is in the correct range. Peak torque RPM is the LOWEST RPM at which you can safely operate the engine under load. Except on dead level ground you would not want to be cruising at peak torque RPM, as the slightest grade would cause either a downshift or cause the engine to be operated at below peak torque RPM. Also, were you to be geared such that 1300 RPM was 65 MPH in 6th gear, you would need to be going that speed before it would shift to 6th gear! Bad idea. We also have the ISL 400 and our RPM at speed is within 50 of what Jim reported.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would sure not start with a "tuner" or other engine modification. VERIFY that you have little air restriction on the intake-- what is your AIR FILTER MINDER reading? Many have reported good results with Magnaflow mufflers and quieter than the Aero mufflers. If you have the two stage engine compression brake (vs just exhaust brake) exhaust noise can be an issue. As with the intake side, how much you gain by going to a free-flow exhaust depends on how restrictive your current set up is. Said another way, if the intake and exhaust are properly sized for your ISL, you will not gain that much. If they are restrictive, you will gain more.