wolfe10

Yup, a need for a whole new concept on driving. Putting it in "D" , hit cruise control and going is not a good one. One has to (or at least really should) monitor conditions, coolant temperatures, speed on descents, etc. In other words as the driver of any heavy vehicle, you must be alert!

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Quite likely the fan clutch assembly will have been speced by your chassis maker.

Top side of the gear housing. Look just above where you add oil.

Ya, proper float voltage is temperature dependent. Must be REALLY cold for 14.XX to be correct. Colder than I would want to be out camping in. But, go to page 114 of your manual. Sadly, the table did not paste in a legible form, but shows float voltage of 13.5 which is OK with me at below 50 degrees F. Charge Algorithm Definitions Table B-1Battery Defaults Figure B-1 Three-stage Charging ProfileVoltageFlooded (or wet)GelAGMVAAbsorption Voltage (VDC)14.414.414.3VGGassing Voltage (VDC)13.513.813.45VF1 Float Voltage (VDC)13.513.813.45VF2Float Exit Voltage (VDC)12.512.512.5VEEqualize Voltage (VDC)15.8NANA

Understood. That is why the regulator on the liquid LP Onan generators is inside the generator very near the engine exhaust manifold. The regulator (a very common one) requires a high-temp silicone gasket vs "regular gasket". Have overhauled several and removed tablespoons of a light viscosity grease-like substance that was clogging them up. Would be interested in a link to a "A water heated vaporizer" on an RV". Just never heard of one.

14.1 float is too high. What does your Xantrex manual suggest is proper float voltage??? Yes, short term defense to long-term over charging is exactly what you did.

"A water heated vaporizer" on an RV???

Chuck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Had a coach with exactly the same setup (Liquid LP Onan generator). Had a good working relationship with an engineer at Marshall Gas who made the majority of the regulators for RV's. At his recommendation I converted to high pressure vapor. Turn off/close liquid port and run generator until it quits to deplete the propane in the line. Turn off/close the vapor port. "T" in between tank and house regulator (i.e. high pressure vapor). I added a propane speced ball valve off the "T" so I could turn off propane to the generator without interrupting flow to house regulator. Then moved the line from liquid port to the new port on the "T". Install cap on the liquid port. Been over a decade running like that and no problems. The longer hydrocarbon chain oil or mercaptan in the bottom of the tank will NOT vaporize at ambient temperatures so is not going to get into the line to the generator.

I want to stress again, that there is NO SINGLE CORRECT ORDER for stowing slides and jacks. PLEASE, PLEASE, follow the order recommended by your coach maker-- NOT SOMEONE ELSE'S.

Correct. When engaging the parking brake, there should be a loud release of air as the spring applied, air released brake applies, followed by zero air coming out of it.

Have you sent those photos to Winnebago? What was their response???

What does your coach maker suggest????? There is no "here is how it works on all coaches/chassis".

Yup, been through that area in our motorhome and many times by sailboat. Been below freezing (sadly on sailboat-- another story) and mid 70's. Really enjoy Mississippi sound!

For the majority of motorhomes: "If an 18 wheeler can go there, you can go there". Several times, I have gone to Google Earth to look at a bridge or underpass that I was concerned about. Then from that map, make a note of nearby businesses. Call the business-- unlikely that they will KNOW the clearance, whether the road has been resurfaced recently, etc. But if asked if 18 wheelers take that route-- most will know.

In teaching RV preventive maintenance, my mantra is: YOU are responsible for knowing what needs to be done and when-- whether you choose to do it yourself or hire it out." Have seen way too many examples of folks taking an RV into a dealership and saying-- do what needs to be done. That is virtually guaranteed to result in things being done that don't need to be done AND skipping things that are due. How is a tech supposed to know when the last time your coolant was changed (or even what chemistry coolant you have). Air dryer changed last year or a decade ago? Etc, Etc.

Ray, What inverter do you have? MSW or PSW?

The diesel engines when from pretty simple to extremely complex as EPA emission specs tightened. 2004 and 2007 were times (engines produced 1/1/2004 and 1/1/2007) when emission specs tightened, leading to more complex systems to control emissions. Note, you could have a 2004 or even early 2005 coach with 2003 engine, as many chassis makers bought ahead knowing that the newer engines would be more complex and more expensive. And, after the chassis is built, it may sit for awhile before a coach is built on it. Engine serial number is the best way to get relevant information on the engine.

It really depends on the sensitivity to Modified sine wave vs Pure sine wave of the devices you will be running on the inverter. As said, it IS worth a premium to go with a PSW inverter for many appliances/electronics.

Carl, Detail please. Why and what are you checking for? Thanks.

Is the fuse in the refrigerator PC board, or in the coach wiring going to the refrigerator? If the latter, what else does it power?

Exactly how it was designed. Many coaches turn on the brakes lights with engine brake activation, many, many DON'T. But, yes, the Invisibrake will apply when the brake lights on the coach are activated.

Actually, as a teacher of the "care and feeding" of diesel powered motorhomes, you (Factor and Herman) are both correct. Absolutely, the learning process is a combination of "book learning" and hands on experience. The process is no different than learning how to maintain any other complex machine. I can teach someone the importance of changing the fuel filter(s) and what micron rating filters to buy for their application, but until they do the hands on of locating the filter(s), changing them and priming the system, it is of limited value. Joe Leamont: https://community.fmca.com/profile/39881-jleamont/

CB= Circuit Breaker

Correct. First time I drove it (1975) stopped and took a picture of a sign: Next pavement 1,588 miles!