wolfe10

Just a suggestion, but for technical problems, you are LOT more likely to get good answers if you post a thread in the appropriate technical section where more "techies" hang out rather than in "Who, What, When, Where or Just Lets Talk". Brett/moderator

Ya, that is the site we use for planning off-shore sailing legs. Thankfully takes some of the DRAMA out of those ocean/Gulf legs.

jbarringer, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First thing I would do is check voltage at the headlights and compare that with voltage at the chassis battery. Do this with the engine running so you get a true picture of voltage while driving. If over 1/2 a volt lower at the lights, we can suggest a solution that will cost less than $20.

Looks like just under 30 mph wind with higher gusts: https://www.ventusky.com/?p=25.00;-80.43;8&l=gust&t=20200309/1600

We just got back from a 10 day trip to Del Rio, Marathon, Big Bend, Terlingua and Ft Davis. Must be a slow learner-- we never tire of that area.

Su Sure, A safety measure to insure that your engine doesn't run out of gas/fail to start because the generator left the tank bone dry.

Rich, Assume you are thinking about the IGNITION SOLENOID for the signal from the ignition switch to it.

OK, I think this thread has run its course. Closed. Moderator

But, a reasonable idea to have a "sediment only" filter for incoming water. Not unusual for there to be sand and minerals, particularly in well water. Agree, charcoal or other filters that remove chlorine should not be used for water that will be stored.

Yes residential 30 amp outlets are 240 VAC, not 120. Those two hots instead of one will LET ALL THE SMOKE OUT of your RV appliances.

Couple of questions: How far from outlet to your 30 amp shore power cord? How much load do you want to be able to run-- as an example, if only battery charger and refrigerator, size is much less important than if you plan to run a roof A/C? Do they really have a 30 amp RV-style outlet where you can plug in or is it a "regular outlet" that is either 15 or (less likely 20)? A 30 amp RV outlet is VERY different from a house 30 amp. The RV 30 has ONE hot, a neutral and a ground. A house 30 has TWO hots!

If you only want it to operate on propane, just unplug the 120 VAC cord at the back of the refrigerator.

Assuming the generator is putting out 120 VAC, either an ATS or manual box where you plug in either shore power or generator are the two ways it could be wired.

Yes, if you have a solenoid valve, it could be controlled by a gas detector or by a switch.

Do you have a solenoid valve at the tank or just the manual valve? Telling us what RV you have may help in identifying the issue.

Consider rotating those two front tires with wear patterns to ONE side in back (the side with better tires which is usually the left rear as they are not curbed, don't run over as much road debris, etc) and move those good rear tires to the front.

Herman, THAT JUST AIN'T RITE!

You might contact a company that works on P chassis motorhomes. Here is one: https://www.hendersonslineup.com/supersteer-products

JStumpf68, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Ya, the post above is over a decade old. What kind of parts are you looking for: Body parts (coach specific) P30 chassis parts P30 chassis upgrade parts P30 engine or maintenance parts Other

OK, ASSUME this is a Ford F53 chassis. Two thing that need to be checked-- by an "old fashion" tire shop capable of working on you size tires/wheels: First thing is to check RUN-OUT on the front tires. You can balance an "oval shaped tire" until the cows come home, but it will still cause shake. If over .035" run-out, fix it. If they don't have a dial indicator/run--out gauge, you definitely have the wrong shop. Next is to check tire balance-- best to spin balance them on the rig-- that insures that not only tire and wheel, but also hub, brake disk, etc are in balance. After doing this, let us know how it drives. Thanks.

https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/stripped-chassis/models/f53-motorhome/

Yes, it has been well publicized that a brand new 7.3 liter V8 will replace the 6.8 liter V10 in HD applications including E350, E450 and F53 chassis.

Quite likely this is NOT an alignment issue. Tires and brakes are at least as likely, but we need more information to be able to assist.

wakury, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have and where you are located. Also, under what conditions the wheel shakes: All the time Only at certain speeds-- if so what speeds Only when braking Other What is age and condition of the front tires-- any unusual wear patterns?

YES, too high! 120 plus/minus 10% Assume you are checking with at least some load on it.