wolfe10

And, I would suggest that better breathing, whether gas or diesel is better for BOTH power and emissions.

On the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) Technical Website: http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,7170.0.html

RJ, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the ISC as opposed to just the C engine does have 24 valves. I have Cummins literature going back to 9/98 showing the 24 valve configuration.

We still need to know if he has an ATS. If everything works fine on generator, that PROVES that from the ATS/coach-side plug through breaker box, etc all is OK, as they use exactly the same wiring. IF, repeat IF safe working around 120 VAC, check at ATS/coach-side plug with shore power on.

I would verify that the inverter does NOT power the ice maker circuit while dry camping, as that is a power consumer.

Marv, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does he have an ATS(Automatic Transfer Switch) or must he manually plug in the generator lead or shore power lead to get power from the two sources? And, if power (hot) is applied to the main breaker, neutral to the white gang strip and ground to the green gang strip, All should work. If nothing works, that would suggest that all the breakers to the various circuits are bad-- not at all likely.

To answer your specific question, at highway speeds on flat ground most of the HP demand (read that fuel consumed) is due to Aerodynamic Resistance. Very little difference between the two coaches, as frontal area is virtually the same. On grades, weight is the factor demanding the significant increase in HP demand. So, yes the longer coach will be a little slower. But, I would not think the difference should outweigh other factors. Said another way, I would rather see you in a clean 38 than a neglected 35.

bjpeck, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You do not say what refrigerator you have, but will give answers to the two types it could be: If two way (LP or 120 VAC): Operating on LP takes VERY little 12 VDC. Just enough for the PC board, gas valve solenoid and igniter. If three way (LP or 120 VAC or 12 VDC): Absolutely, you will need to make sure it IS on LP, not 12 VDC. Your real issue may be deeper and include condition of the batteries, total amp-hour capacity of the battery bank, converter/charger or inverter-charger, amp-hours of power used and generator run time/solar.

Quite likely you are hearing the electric fuel pump-- very normal.

Wayne, If there have been no new posts since you last checked, you will/should get that message. Are you getting "no new content" message when there HAVE been new posts since you were last on-line? I have never had that happen to me, but if it is happening to you, on Tuesday, I can put you in touch with a support person at FMCA.

Gerald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When you say the batteries are new and fully charged, have you checked both CHASSIS and HOUSE batteries with a digital voltmeter? Does your coach have provisions for charging the chassis batteries from shore power-- many do NOT? The fact that it will start with the boost switch is engaged suggests that either the chassis batteries are not charged or that there is a poor connection between the chassis batteries and engine.

Suggest you also have them check for 120 VAC on both IN and OUT side of the GFI outlet. They DO fail. They are not expensive.

NOTE: THIS ALL ASSUMES YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC!!! The "right side" of what has no power to it-- 120 VAC or 12 VDC? With a digital voltmeter-- what is voltage at the batteries. That will quickly tell you if a converter, charger or inverter/charger is working. And, exactly what is not working on 120 VAC-- is it just some outlets? In your main 120 VAC breaker box, is there just one marked "outlets"? If more than one feeding various breakers, turn them off one at a time to identify which one is connected to the "not working" outlets. Then, starting at the closest outlet (usually proximity to 120 VAC breaker box is the one) check for power to it. Let us know what you find-- again, the more information you provide, the better we can help.

Begall, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The GFI they are talking about is just like one in your house-- on a 120 VDC outlet. And, as they said, if it is tripped, that outlet and all outlets downstream of it (protected by it) will be dead. To operate on 120 VAC, your refrigerator actually needs both 120 VAC (heating element) and 12 VDC (to operate the PC board). If it works on LP, then you DO have 12 VDC to it. The converter is not involved in providing 120 VAC-- it only takes 120 VAC and "converts it" to 12 VDC (actually around 13 VDC so that it charges the 12 VDC batteries). What is battery voltage on the house battery bank? That will tell you whether you have a converter problem.

Yes, the breaker could be bad, or voltage low at the slide mechanism (causing excessive amp draw), or there could be a problem with the slide or its alignment, causing excessive friction/resistance. More details would help us to help you: what coach you have, what kind of slide mechanism, and if you have checked voltage at the slide motor, what you saw.

Red, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to the dash evaporator? Is it leaking water (condensate) or leaking R134A? Do you know the brand of the dash HVAC unit. Probably printed on it. If not, Monaco can tell you-- call them with your VIN: 877-466-6226

On most hydraulic over hydraulic brake systems, the electric assist is generally only an emergency backup. It works if the engine stops. So, turn on the key, engine off and you should hear it run.

Sounds like your is wired backwards. The chassis battery may have a separate cut-off switch, and if your coach does not have some means of charging from shore power (many do not), disconnecting it while camped can slow down its discharge rate. The house battery, whose cut-off switch is generally near the entrance door must be left on for 12 VDC functions in the coach to work. Your inverter/charger WILL keep the house battery bank charged when you are on shore power or the generator is on. Many have added a separate small smart charger or "power share device" such as a Xantrex Echo Charger to keep the chassis battery charged from shore power.

Pismomike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, do NOT accept a Cashier's check, they can be forged. The exception is if you go to their bank and the banker hands you a cashier's check. There is no "here is how it will work". Some questions that will help us direct you to a way that is safe for both you and the buyer: Do you have clear title? Do you bank locally (where the transaction will take place)? Does the buyer have a bank/branch near where the transaction will take place?

Yes, the spring should STRONGLY hold the exhaust brake in the open position. In fact, unless you have gorilla strength, you will not be able to close it by hand.

Yes, if you are getting ready to go on a long trip (you mention Alaska) where servicing along the way is pretty scarce, I would sure have wheel bearings repacked. This assumes they have not been repacked in the 10 years the chassis has been on the road.

peterk, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Oshkosh sold out to Freightliner. Most of that vintage had hydraulic brakes. Many hydraulic over hydraulic. So the brakes themselves (i.e. in the master cylinder) is regular DOT III brake fluid. There were a number of different fluids used in the engine-driven hydraulic system including engine oil, ATF and hydraulic fluid. Suggest you confirm this with Freightliner. I don't have an e-mail address for Freightliner Chassis which is in Gaffney, SC, but their phone number is: 800 385-4357. Contact them with your VIN.

Paul, A couple of things: Do you have a side or rear radiator? If rear, when was the last time you cleaned the FRONT of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler)? Excessively hot intake air temperatures will certainly affect performance. You mentioned boost a couple of times. Do you have a boost gauge? If so, what boost are you seeing? You can visually check to see if the PacBrake has been lubed (signs of oily residue around shaft)? If not easy to do with PacBrake lube. You can also check that it is fully open (only tiny amount of piston sticking out of air cylinder). No question, an exhaust brake stuck partially shut will affect performance. Also, check CAREFULLY for exhaust leaks: head to exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold itself and exhaust manifold to turbo. Any leak upstream of the turbo reduces potential boost. Black soot trails indicate a leak. All of this is/should be standard checks for a diesel.

Probably 3 hour job total with regular hand tools.

On our last coach, were was not sufficient width to remove the Splendride unit. SOOOOO, I pulled it out enough to dismantle and remove it piece by piece. Then took a hack saw and cut through the frame (not as much work as I thought it might be).