wolfe10

Was talking with Mike Bronzini with Redlands Truck & RV on Friday (he is on the panel with me on the Suspension Seminar at Pomona). They are a FMCA/Michelin Advantage dealer and along with other service work, will be installing tires at the Pomona Convention. Said he had a whole truck full of fresh (December build date) tires loaded for the Convention. I have no information either way as to whether there will be other dealers offering tires through the FMCA/Michelin program. If you will be at the Convention and want further information, contact Redlands: (888) 249-0124

My only question is about the WEIGHT of the new truck and your coach's towing capacity AND GCWR. Agree on the two manufacturers-- both with quality products. We have towed with Roadmaster gear (tow bar, brackets and brake) for the last three toads and 200,000+ miles. No problems.

Yes, it is fine to drive (i.e. up and down hills) with the refrigerator on. It is only operating out of level and not moving that allows the coolant to cease flowing and therefore the boiler temperature to rise. Said another way, the motion of the vehicle keeps it working fine.

Torsion bar? Not familiar with that one for the F53 chassis. Are you talking about a TRACK BAR or ANTI-SWAY BAR?

Equalization should/does only start with the batteries fully charged. The voltage is driven up, but amperage (charge rate) is very low within a few minutes. The process desulfates the plates-- sulfates are deposited on the plates during discharge. In fact for years, I used an old 6 amp Sears charger to do this-- charge rate drops to 2-3 amps. Like Rich, I monitor the equalization process with a hydrometer. When no rise in SG for 30 minutes, I quit the process. There is NO "here is how long it takes". Depends on the batteries-- as they age, it takes longer. It has taken from 30 minutes to 4 hours. BIG CAUTION: A good idea to disconnect the batteries from the coach appliances with PC boards during this process. Many PC boards are not "happy campers" at 15+ VDC. Depending on your coach, may be easiest to turn off the salesman switch and then pull fuse to refrigerator or other circuits that the salesman switch does not disconnect.

Sorry, not heard of them either. Might give Michelin a call on Monday: Michelin 800 847-3435.

Unless the person at Spartan knew your coach weights, he could not give you accurate inflation information. If you are a weekend camper and the last guy who called was a full-timer, the "here is THE answer" would be wrong for at least one of you.

The advice on PSI from Spartan was very likely based on each axle being loaded to its GAWR. Hopefully, you are NOT loaded that heavily. Said another way, you could be way over-inflated. Only way to know is to weight: 1. Each wheel position (best) or 2. Each axle (easy in virtually any town in N America.) Only then can you reasonably determine the correct PSI. The correct PSI for the tires on our coach is 70 or 120 BASED ON ACTUAL WEIGHT. BIG, BIG DIFFERENCE.

Before we start recommending add ons (even good ones), let's make sure the BASICS are covered. As an example, if tires are 30 PSI over-inflated for the actual load, it WILL be squirrelly. Same for inadequate front axle caster.

Is the 110 PSI based on: Actual weight on the axles/heaver wheel position on the axles? GVWR sticker? Sidewall of the tire? Please fill in weights if you have them, exact tire series and size and PSI on the GVWR sticker. Also, when they did the alignments, did they set RIDE HEIGHT first?

As a courtesy, yes.

Yes, all around. Previous coaches always on Michelins. The Continentals meet my expectations for ride, handling, noise, etc. Impressed.

Roy, If you are asking how much weight it can tow (trailer or toad), that is a more complicated issue. Weight of toad and coach need to be less than GCWR. But, if any tongue weight, one has to be very careful, as the RV manufacturer CAN lower the ability to carry tongue weight-- generally by extending the frame rails. With tongue weight, you also have to look carefully at the rear axle GAWR, as tongue weight adds more than actual weight to the rear and subtracts weight from the front axle. If that is not the question, let us know exactly what you will be doing with the coach and hopefully we can help.

The GVWR sticker, which is very likely on the door jam does give front and rear axle GAWR's as well as tire size and recommended PSI if loaded to GAWR's. The RV manufacturer does not change the axle ratings-- that is strictly a chassis maker's issue. If your GAWR sticker has been removed, call Ford with your VIN.

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the "new to us" coach we got last fall has Continental HSL2 tires. No problems with them-- good ride and handling. As with any tire selection, make sure it meets or exceeds your coach's axle GAWR's. Said another way, you do NOT want the tires to be the weak link!

Very frightening AND INTERESTING. The parking/emergency brake is SPRING applied, hydraulic pressure released. Would be quite interested in how the parking/emergency brake was "disengaged"?

On duals it is a non-issue, as the two sensors are 180 degrees from each other. Suspect weight of extension is minimal, particularly when compared with weight of duals. rear brake drum, etc. Front-- if you already have your fronts spin balanced on the coach and you are really picky, add a comparable weight 180 degrees from the valve stem/sensor.

Jerry, Lot of variables. 6 VDC in series or 12 VDC How many/ how many amp hours? How often do you dry camp? What converter/charger do you have (if not a smart charger, don't spend a lot of money on top of the line batteries). What part of the country-- Stores like Walmart and Sams sell different makes of batteries in different parts of the country.

Yup, doing some in-depth seminars next week for the Diesel RV Club http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-1735866 Also at the Pomona FMCA Convention. Brett

Neither-- until you have talked with the tech to determine what caused the shut down. Silly to walk away if merely a clogged fuel filter. Silly to buy if a major engine problem-- unless the price is adjusted accordingly. Also consider taking the coach to the engine manufacturer's dealer (probably Cummins) to have them download and tell you the history of issues with the engine that are stored in the engine's computer.

The question really boils down to how comfortable you are managing your electrical loads and how much you want "someone else" to do with it. The only other issue, that particularly affects those who leave pets in coaches when boondocking in hot temperatures is that some have an autostart based on temperature.

Yup, but it only takes one to send the trailer to the impound lot! I can tell you that my brother was towing his Nimble 32' sailboat (triple axle trailer) with his Dodge/Cummins PU to Lake Mead. Utah Highway Patrol pulled him over and spend almost an hour measuring length and more critically width. Had he been a mm over, they would have impounded the boat (and told him so-- along with a hefty fine). Then he would have had to drive to an office where he would have had to get an oversized permit, then bail the boat out of the impound lot. Luckily (actually well-planned) though 32' long is just met the maximum width requirement without a permit. Before some sailboat races where oversized boats are trailered in FL, it is well known that FL officials would stake out the roads leading to the event to add to the state coffers.

Sadly, not on many coaches.

Sure, just sign up for generator area. Click on "register online now" after you log into the main FMCA Website:http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/pomona-2015/register.html Or on the PDF registration form on the same page Please indicate your parking Preference :  General  Full Generator  Handicap ✧  Governing Board  Families with Children  No Generator  Handicap Full Generator ✧  PNO/Committee

Cost of renting portable generators and setting up electrical grids is HIGH. Expensive rent and lots of labor. But, weather next month should not make power a requirement unless you are all electric, etc.