wolfe10

Before we start recommending add ons (even good ones), let's make sure the BASICS are covered. As an example, if tires are 30 PSI over-inflated for the actual load, it WILL be squirrelly. Same for inadequate front axle caster.

Is the 110 PSI based on: Actual weight on the axles/heaver wheel position on the axles? GVWR sticker? Sidewall of the tire? Please fill in weights if you have them, exact tire series and size and PSI on the GVWR sticker. Also, when they did the alignments, did they set RIDE HEIGHT first?

As a courtesy, yes.

Yes, all around. Previous coaches always on Michelins. The Continentals meet my expectations for ride, handling, noise, etc. Impressed.

Roy, If you are asking how much weight it can tow (trailer or toad), that is a more complicated issue. Weight of toad and coach need to be less than GCWR. But, if any tongue weight, one has to be very careful, as the RV manufacturer CAN lower the ability to carry tongue weight-- generally by extending the frame rails. With tongue weight, you also have to look carefully at the rear axle GAWR, as tongue weight adds more than actual weight to the rear and subtracts weight from the front axle. If that is not the question, let us know exactly what you will be doing with the coach and hopefully we can help.

The GVWR sticker, which is very likely on the door jam does give front and rear axle GAWR's as well as tire size and recommended PSI if loaded to GAWR's. The RV manufacturer does not change the axle ratings-- that is strictly a chassis maker's issue. If your GAWR sticker has been removed, call Ford with your VIN.

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the "new to us" coach we got last fall has Continental HSL2 tires. No problems with them-- good ride and handling. As with any tire selection, make sure it meets or exceeds your coach's axle GAWR's. Said another way, you do NOT want the tires to be the weak link!

Very frightening AND INTERESTING. The parking/emergency brake is SPRING applied, hydraulic pressure released. Would be quite interested in how the parking/emergency brake was "disengaged"?

On duals it is a non-issue, as the two sensors are 180 degrees from each other. Suspect weight of extension is minimal, particularly when compared with weight of duals. rear brake drum, etc. Front-- if you already have your fronts spin balanced on the coach and you are really picky, add a comparable weight 180 degrees from the valve stem/sensor.

Jerry, Lot of variables. 6 VDC in series or 12 VDC How many/ how many amp hours? How often do you dry camp? What converter/charger do you have (if not a smart charger, don't spend a lot of money on top of the line batteries). What part of the country-- Stores like Walmart and Sams sell different makes of batteries in different parts of the country.

Yup, doing some in-depth seminars next week for the Diesel RV Club http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-1735866 Also at the Pomona FMCA Convention. Brett

Neither-- until you have talked with the tech to determine what caused the shut down. Silly to walk away if merely a clogged fuel filter. Silly to buy if a major engine problem-- unless the price is adjusted accordingly. Also consider taking the coach to the engine manufacturer's dealer (probably Cummins) to have them download and tell you the history of issues with the engine that are stored in the engine's computer.

The question really boils down to how comfortable you are managing your electrical loads and how much you want "someone else" to do with it. The only other issue, that particularly affects those who leave pets in coaches when boondocking in hot temperatures is that some have an autostart based on temperature.

Yup, but it only takes one to send the trailer to the impound lot! I can tell you that my brother was towing his Nimble 32' sailboat (triple axle trailer) with his Dodge/Cummins PU to Lake Mead. Utah Highway Patrol pulled him over and spend almost an hour measuring length and more critically width. Had he been a mm over, they would have impounded the boat (and told him so-- along with a hefty fine). Then he would have had to drive to an office where he would have had to get an oversized permit, then bail the boat out of the impound lot. Luckily (actually well-planned) though 32' long is just met the maximum width requirement without a permit. Before some sailboat races where oversized boats are trailered in FL, it is well known that FL officials would stake out the roads leading to the event to add to the state coffers.

Sadly, not on many coaches.

Sure, just sign up for generator area. Click on "register online now" after you log into the main FMCA Website:http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/pomona-2015/register.html Or on the PDF registration form on the same page Please indicate your parking Preference :  General  Full Generator  Handicap ✧  Governing Board  Families with Children  No Generator  Handicap Full Generator ✧  PNO/Committee

Cost of renting portable generators and setting up electrical grids is HIGH. Expensive rent and lots of labor. But, weather next month should not make power a requirement unless you are all electric, etc.

Marshall, For your C7: 860 lf-ft torque at 1,440 RPM. Governed RPM: 2400 For complete information on your engine, call the Caterpillar RV hotline with your engine serial number. If coming to the Pomona FMCA Convention, come to the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminar.

I agree with Ray. Make some provision for charging the chassis as well as house battery bank. Either a separate charger or an Echo Charger which charges the chassis battery when the house battery is being charged by the on-board charger.

Yes, if the chassis batteries are dead, you will need to use the BOOST SWITCH/BATTERY COMBINE SWITCH. That puts the house bank in parallel with chassis bank. If you have a constant duty solenoid for a combiner, you can turn the boost switch on occasionally to allow the charger, through house bank to charge the chassis battery bank. Do not do this is all you have is an intermittent duty solenoid.

motorcyclemania, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If this is the Workhorse W chassis, it is a well regarded chassis. Mileage is likely be very slightly better than the same coach with the Ford chassis/V10.

Don't know where you guys are located, but if coming to the FMCA Convention in Pomona, CA the end of next month, come to the Suspension Seminar for a little more insight into how your chassis and that supplemental system work.

melodyeann, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If a gasoline powered coach, looks like the previous owner may have added air bags to the suspension. Look for air bags/air lines over the chassis maker supplied springs. If you can get any brand names from the controller and/or air bags, we may be of more specific help.

There are a number of RV parks with a "10 year age limit". But, the vast majority do not automatically disqualify older coaches. They reserve the right to make a decision when they see one. We are in such a park right now. Were here two years ago in a 1993 Foretravel-- no problem with getting in. By definition, the over 10 years old decision is a subjective one. A well maintained 10+ year old high end coach in most cases is better looking than many newer ones. Age would only very indirectly relate to safety. Said another way, a well maintained 10+ year old coach will likely be in better shape than many 5 year old coaches that have had zero maintenance.

Yes if nothing that normally works with ignition on (i.e. Allison shift pad, dash HVAC fan, etc) the IGNITION SOLENOID is the first suspect.