wolfe10

Ray may be talking about FUSION paint from Krylon. http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/

Carl, Good diagnostics. And, with a bad connection at one end or the other, look closely for signs of overheating-- burned contacts, melted plug, etc. Brett

Fasteddie123, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your coach was built by Monaco Corp: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT If there is a specific part of the wiring that you are interested in, let us know-- we may be able to help.

Another option for an accumulator: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Water-Worker-2-gal-Pressurized-Well-Tank-HT2B/202846475?MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2-1-_-NA-_-202846475-_-N

What size tire?

As Wayne said, the answer is NO IDEA. It can be 75 degrees and the next day a cold front moves through and it is below freezing. Three days later, it is in the mid 70's. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=houston+tx and other sites a week out are pretty accurate.

Yes, could be the relay, could be a resettable breaker making/breaking/making, could be a loose connection. I would start by "borrowing" a relay from another circuit to see if that solves it.

Carl, To change your signature: Scroll over your user name in the upper right of this screen. Click on "My Settings". On the left side, click on "Signature". Edit, then click "Save Changes" at the bottom.

Lewkittle, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no "one best" supplemental braking system out there. In fact some larger toad brake manufacturers offer several different systems because of this. Some of the questions that will lead you to a good choice for your application. I'll start them out: 1. How long are you going to keep the Honda. If long-term, then it makes more sense to install a permanent system. If you change vehicles often, it may make more sense to buy a "brake in a box" that can be transferred from one vehicle to another (but, is a hassle to store and move in and out). 2. How much real mountain driving do you do. If not much, then proportional brakes would not be as important. Proportional braking usually adds to the cost of the brakes. And, if mountain driving, look carefully to see if the toad brakes would be applies for a long time if you are using your coach engine/transmission (as you should) to keep speed in check. I really don't like the systems that have the brakes in the toad on when the coach engine brakes is doing its job. Prefer it to be triggered by the coach brake pedal (my personal preference). Basically, you want a braking system that meets YOUR needs, not a list of what fit OUR needs. The more you can tell us about your needs, the better we can advise.

Here is the other thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/7484-motor-cover-removal/?hl=%2Bnational+%2Bengine

I will second Bill's suggestion-- any Allison dealer and many other truck service centers. And Transynd IS Allison's recommended fluid. You might also look again at the model number, I have seen MD3060 and 3000's but not a 3006.

Actually, if the paperwork had gone through to the state (meaning the vehicle was/would be registered in their name) it very likely would have lost that kind of money. It could no longer be sold a new.

Carl, I suspect you heard the turbo spool up (increased noise level). Newer diesel engines meeting the stricter EPA specs do generate a lot more boost at lower RPM/throttle settings than earlier engines.

Carl, I am trying to make sense of it, but can't. The same transmission and quite likely the same rear axle ratio and tire size is used with other engines of similar displacement. These factors determine engine RPM-- the engine really is "just along for the ride". Would be interesting if you find one of these factors different with a particular engine: Transmission gear ratio in first gear, rear axle ratio, tire size-- actually tire revolutions per mile.

While I am sure there are some "under-build" coaches out there, most are designed to carry a full load of water with no issues. That doesn't mean that carrying an extra 600 pounds of "ballast" is a good idea. We usually hit the road with 1/2 tank, so an emergency would not cause a supply issue were we stuck for a day or two. Obviously, if heading to a convention or dry camping, we fill up.

I have used Rotella T 15-40 in Onan 6.3 propane generators for the last 15 years-- no problems at all.

Here is the thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/7481-2015-honda-cr-v-not-towable-4-down/ The 2015 Fit with manual transmission IS towable 4 wheels down. No other Hondas for 2015 are.

Agree on the advantages of side radiator: FAR better engine access. Much less susceptible to clogging of the CAC and radiator (cleaner air from the side is pulled in VS "vacuuming the pavement with air under the center of the coach that has dirt stirred up and has gone over hot rear axle, hot transmission and hot engine before being sucked up and forced into the cooling system. And much easier to clean (from the side of the coach instead of accessing it through the bedroom). Better MPG, as the fan is either two speed or variable. Yes, there are a VERY few rear radiator coaches with thermostatically controlled fans-- very few.

Yes, Foretravel is in Nacogdoches Texas and has been for many, many decades. http://www.foretravel.com/

And at both Buc-ees and the large Kroger in League City, TX diesel is $3.06. Got to love price wars!

Correct. Only manual transmission Subarus are towable.

JM, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is a wealth of knowledge here. The more specific your questions, the better we can help. Example-- if mechanical issues with the chassis/engine, transmission, what chassis does it have? If a question on an appliance, what brand and model. Even on much newer motorhomes, there is rarely a single manual. Instead, there are a number of them covering the individual components. And the good news (other than the knowledge base here) is that many component manufacturers have on-line manuals.

Ron, Sorry, not first hand information. But with the good diagnostic information (though for a different system) you received from Sauer-Danfoss, I would re-contact them with your Sauer-Danfoss model number.

Janicegw, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. How hot is it getting? Have you had the front of the Charge Air Cooler cleaned? While overheating can certainly ruin a head gasket, this is really rare on the Cat and Cummins diesels. I would definitely take it to an authorized Caterpillar dealer. Kind of like going in for surgery-- you want a specialist who does this every day, not a GP.

Good work. You have isolated the issue to shore power cord male end on to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and everything between.