wolfe10

Cut it out and install a new ball valve. Check out shark bite and other easy to install fittings.

Thanks, Dennis. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the warning.

Bill, Understood. But some of the posts were suggesting that it was unfair to "penalize" visa via different tax rates based on weight on diesels but not gas. Since this only applies to coaches that weigh over 26,000 pounds, I believe it is a moot point. I am not aware of any gas coaches over 26,000 pounds! No, I have no comment on the thread other than that. Brett

The transmission serial number is on the driver's side of the transmission-- yes under the coach. But, your chassis maker will also have a record of all the main components used on your chassis. A VERY good document to get a copy of.

Sorry, I am lost here-- gas coaches weighing in excess of 26,000 pounds???

Carl, Allison would be the best source for that information: 800 252 5283 Having your transmission serial number handy would be a good idea.

Often referred to as "cloud point" as #2 diesel is cooled, the longer hydrocarbon chains begin to link together/gel. This can clog fuel systems. That is why in cold areas in winter the fuel is not straight #2 diesel, but a combination of #2 and #1 which does not gel until a much lower temperature. So, if you fill in the winter, you are already good to go. But, if you fill in the summer or fall before cold temperatures set in, it is a good idea to add it. Here is a common anti-gel at most Walmarts: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Diesel-Fuel-Supplement-Plus-Cetane-Boost-32-oz/16644698

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=14E051000 RECALL Subject : Fuel Filter Shell may Separate and Cause Stall Report Receipt Date: JUL 29, 2014 NHTSA Campaign Number: 14E051000 Component(s): Potential Number of Units Affected: 63,600 All Products Associated with this Recall Details 6 Associated Documents Manufacturer: Cummins Inc. SUMMARY:Cummins Inc. (Cummins) is recalling certain Fleetguard UFF-XT fuel filters, part number FF63009, manufactured April 25, 2014, to June 29, 2014 with a date code of 14115 through 14180. These fuel filters were installed on Cummins ISB engines built April 28, 2014, to July 9, 2014 and ISL engines built April 30, 2014, to July 8, 2014. Additionally, these fuel filters were distributed as replacement service parts. The fuel filter shell may separate from the fuel filter nut plate causing the engine to stall without warning. CONSEQUENCE:If the engine stalls unexpectedly there is an increased risk of a crash. REMEDY:Cummins will notify owners and dealers will replace the fuel filter with a non-defective one, free of charge. The recall began on August 20, 2014. Owners may contact Cummins customer service at 1-800-223-4583. Cummins' number for this recall is C1545. NOTES:Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.

Absolutely the tank should be full to minimize condensation. Two months in cool temperatures, not sure I would add a Biocide. If longer, yes. And, if you fill know, you will have #2 diesel or #2 with some biodiesel content. If temperatures might go below freezing, add an anti-gel. PS anti-gel is stocked in most Walmarts.

You will want to locate the wire/terminal on the relay (the one on the engine) that is used to close/turn on the intake manifold heater. Likely it will be a 12 VDC positive, but could be the relay ground. If it is not getting the proper "signal" you have an ignition switch or wiring issue. If it is getting the correct signal, it is likely that the relay is bad.

What brand and model A/C-- quite a few different style filters out there.

Bill is correct. If is is 80 degrees F out, the heater may not come on and that may be OK. Caterpillar Corp (yes in Peoria, IL, not India) can look up at what temperature your intake heater should come on. Call them with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126.

Bill, Yes, if purchased in winter, it will have anti-gel added/a mix of #2 and #1 diesel. But, were you to fill up in the summer or fall (before cold temperatures) you would need to add an anti-gel.

Having had two 10+ year old coaches (1993 Foretravel and 1997 Safari Sahara) I guess I have a slightly different perspective. Were I the owner of a CG, I would probably have the policy of a 10 year rule with older rigs OK if in good condition. We have been at several parks with exactly this policy and have never had an issue. They look out the window, it is on good shape, no problem. Are there some older very rough coaches that this would exclude-- yes. Look on Craig's list anywhere in the country for a number of under $5000 Class A's. Here is one this morning on our local Craig's list: http://houston.craigslist.org/rvs/4656557974.html

Vicki, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If 30 amp, you will need one hot, one neutral and one ground. If 50 amp, you will need two hots (out of phase), one neutral and ground. Wire gauge depends on which amperage and length of run. Obviously, it must be wired correctly!

Bill, Is your engine stock? Unusual to run dangerously high EGT's with a stock engine. Chipped or tweaked-- that is a different matter. BTW, what EGT's were you seeing? Pre turbo?

Yes, your Caterpillar C9 will have an intake manifold heater (as do all their engines as well as Cummins engines). There are two things that would be at the top of my list for your symptoms: 1. The intake manifold heater is not working. Locate it (heavy wire going to the intake manifold from a relay that is likely right there on the top of the engine (I have not worked on the C9, so don't know the exact location). Put a volt meter on it, and with the engine cold, turn the key to the first or second position (depends on chassis). In other words the position before the starter engages. In this position, the intake manifold heater should be on-- how long it is on depends on temperature. In very cold temperatures, it can even stay on after the engine has started. Have someone monitor the voltmeter. You could have a problem with the relay, a fuse or wiring from ignition switch. And, yes, you should have a dash light for the heater. Check with your chassis manual or coach manual for its location. 2. Low fuel pressure will cause the same symptoms, and in cold weather, metal shrinks, making fuel systems more leaks prone. If you have the Caterpillar manual primer pump on the secondary fuel filter, unscrew it (turn the knob counter-clockwise) then pump it in/out. It should be very hard to pump, indicating that you are trying to compress fuel. When finished, be sure to push the plunger all the way in and screw it in to lock (clockwise) If it pumps easily, there is air in the system or the fuel pressure has bled off (injector or more likely the check valve in the fuel return port). If this is the problem, pumping the manual pump will give you fuel pressure and a "normal" start.

Holly, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Locate the nearest scales-- may be a moving company, trash hauler, truck scales, etc. Your local yellow pages or Google should point you in the right direction. If you have anything heavy in the coach, or full water, gray or black, empty them before weighing. BTW it is common to require a weight sticker when registering a motorhome in many states.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Check with Thor and/or your chassis maker for the location of your air chuck. It is likely just a chuck and you will have to buy a hose and fitting.

Yup, both maintenance and operation are important to any mechanical device!

I agree, the majority of diesel owners idle TOO LONG, both on start up and on shut down. A little common sense goes a long ways. If the engine is cold, and you are parked at a freeway entrance, you DO need to idle (high idle) it longer than if you have 2 miles of slow driving from the CG to reach the highway. Same on shut down-- if you just pulled into a "scenic vista" at the top of a long grade, you do need to allow for more cool down time than if you have driven 2 miles at low speed to get to the CG.

Jim, No problem-- improper shut down is a prime cause of turbo failure. While turbo temperature is somewhat related to coolant temperature, they are not directly related. Case in point: Pulling a long, steep grade in the winter may not raise coolant temperature, but will still raise turbo/exhaust temperature. So, if pulling a long grade, even if coolant is at thermostatic temperature, you should let the engine idle for 3 minutes or so to cool the turbo. If you have a boost gauge, you will KNOW when you are out of turbo/little or no boost. A couple of minutes at low/no boost, even if still being driven (i.e. slow city streets, CG's etc) will allow sufficient turbo cool down. Clearly, if you pull into a CG, check in and then pull to your site, you are good for an immediate shut down.

Charles, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Turbo failure is rare. But were we to start pointing fingers, it sounds like this coach has SAT for most of its life-- 6+ years and only 19,000 miles may mean it has sat for long periods of time. Particularly, if the previous owner did not know how to treat the mechanicals, turbo failure can happen. Things that will lead to premature turbo failure: Inadequate warm up time before really getting into the throttle/turbo. Said another way, before the turbo has adequate oil flow. Inadequate cool down time before shutting down after a hard pull. This will lead to "cooking/coking" of the oil in the turbo and therefore poor lubrication. Sitting for long periods of time allows oil to drain from bearings. Worse, if previous owner started it and just let it idle while stored. Idling a diesel leads to a lot of moisture in the exhaust and crankcase-- unless driven a minimum of 25 highway miles, DO NOT START A DIESEL. All you will do is add moisture to the engine.

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Don't have a Beaver, but do have a Magnum chassis with Caterpillar 3126 and Allison 6 speed. Very good chassis/drivetrain. Of course at that age, as with any complex machine, how it was maintained will have a lot to do with how it will perform for you.

Yes, it would be safe to plug your 30 amp RV cord into an RV 30 amp outlet. But, it would also be OK to plug it into a 15 amp (regular house-type) outlet using an adapter. Of course that would limit what you could run, but would not harm the RV wiring. Only plugging into a dryer outlet at a house would harm the RV. And, if other 120 VAC items in the RV operate, but the outlets do not, look for a GFI that has been tripped. They are the same as in a house.