wolfe10

Jerry, I remember some of those grades in VT. Were you in second gear with exhaust brake on during the descent of those 13% grades. If so, am surprised you needed much use of the service brake.

bprg8of9, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Boy, that is a tough one, as the parts you have replaced should have addressed the problem. With a violent pull to the left, first suspect would be that the front right brake is not working or working very poorly. A crushed brake line over to the right front wheel could cause that, but would certainly have turned up when they tried to bleed the new line and caliper (and no fluid would come out). That system has been used on thousands of RV's and it is a good one. Are your calipers floating calipers or are they fixed with pistons on both sides? If floating calipers, lack of lube of the slide area (probably left front) could cause it to drag, but unlikely an issue with brand new calipers.

Yes, moving the HOT and NEUTRAL is critical. Ground really makes no difference, as main panel and sub-panels are all grounded together. So, if you like, move the ground as well, or leave it where it is. Said another way, all the panel grounds are tied together.

Unless there is something very wrong with either your refrigerator or installation, this should be a non-issue.

Tom, Then, my first question would be "do you have someone familiar with the DD 6V92-- I just bought one that has not been run in a long time?"

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suspect this has a Detroit Diesel 2 stroke engine. If so, you will want to find an "old timer" who knows these engines. Please verify the engine, as that will affect recommendations.

BorJGreen 1031, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A couple of assumptions you need to verify: You have the torasilatic suspension, not air suspension. You have hydraulic over hydraulic 4 wheel disk brakes. If so, you do not have an engine-driven air compressor. With the big Caterpillar engine, you have an engine compression brake, not exhaust brake. So, no PacBrake air compressor. If all that true, you will have a 12 VDC air compressor. Likely location is in the very front or in one of the forward basement compartments. The solenoid, at least on our Safari Sahara was in the very front (access from front). Pretty easy to identify as it has both two wires and two small-diameter air hoses. If your compressor is working, it should be pretty easy to locate. Turn the ignition key to on, but do not start the engine. The compressor should run to pressurize the system-- walk around the outside listening for it. There are several points of failure: Fuse or wiring to compressor. Pressure switch-- should be either on or very near the compressor. Compressor itself. Solenoid switch. This failed on our coach-- the rubber material used in the seal area denigrated, "gluing" the plunger to the seat. So, no horn AND an air leak that kept the compressor running more than it should. Wiring from horn ring to solenoid. Air line from compressor to solenoid and then to the horns on the roof. Let us know what you find as you get into troubleshooting.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You need to tell us where you are-- a tire 1000 miles away will not be of much use. For only 20 miles, wonder if someone would "rent" you their spare? What chassis-- that will help determine if a wheel would fit.

Gary, Be sure to move BOTH hot and neutral.

Bill, You have been a real asset here on the Forum. Hope you are able to stay in touch.

Since your coach is on a Roadmaster chassis (Monaco's in-house brand) I would give Monaco a call with your VIN. They can pull up a schematic of your air brake system and tell you: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT Be sure this important SAFETY upgrade has been done-- rear trailing arm failure: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

Mark, Give Monaco a call with your VIN. They should be able to walk you through troubleshooting this: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT

Yes, the trailing arm issue is very serious. But, I do not believe the "new Monaco" Corp is involved/will pay for this. Here is a better look at the issue: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/ But, with that said, I do not believe that the trailing arm failure issue is related to a quirky emergency brake warning buzzer.

Colaws: http://colawrvsalvage.com/

TimmersRL, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a link to the new Federal requirements-- if so, please post. Was not aware that driver's licenses were anything but state requirements-- in the state in which you are licensed, with reciprocity in all other states. Thanks.

Using a relay to power the headlights (usually two, one for low and one for high beams) is relatively inexpensive and a reasonable upgrade. That way the switch only handles less than an amp-- the power needed to close the relays. Will give brighter headlights as well due to less voltage drop.

Small clarification: The propane furnace is 12 VDC, not 120 VAC.

Reality-- many many who work in state DMV's do NOT, repeat NOT know of their own state's requirements concerning motorhome licensing. Best to look at the requirements for yourself on your state's website vs banking an a clerk's assurance.

It truly depends on what finish you want. Some like a matte finish (I use a fine scotchbrite pad), some like a gloss finish. For gloss, start as course as needed to remove scratches and finish with 2000 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) and then rubbing and polishing compound.

**Assume you are safe working around 120 VAC** Yup, should be easy to determine. Unplug from shore power, generator off. Turn inverter on. With a voltmeter, check for 120 VAC between breakers in that sub-panel and the neutral and/or ground lugs in the sub panel.

It is highly likely that water in the brakes allowed the brake shoes to rust to the drum. About all you can do after driving in the rain is to apply the brakes fairly hard a couple of times before putting it in storage to help dry them out. Yes, it does happen.

Only issue is how close to the refrigerator you already have an inverter-powered outlet. And, is there enough "reserve" (i.e. you don't run a lot of other high amp items on that circuit) to be able to install an additional outlet from the existing inverter-powered outlet. Your inverter/charger already has a "pass through" feature so that when it sees shore power or generator, it automatically passes that source through to all outlets the inverter/charger supplies. If no inverter/charger powered outlets in the area, worse case is run a new feed from the inverter output/subpanel.

Again, in Texas, having just gone through this a week ago, as this is our first coach over 26,000 GVWR: For your non-commercial (i.e. personal use only) use, you need a: CDL class B, exempt. It requires a written and driving test. Only unusual part is parallel parking, but the spaces are generally long enough for an 18 wheeler, so shouldn't be a big issue. I practices using cardboard boxes in a parking lot for 15 minutes, and no problem with the test. Kind of funny, having the "learners permit" between written and driving test, even though I have over a quarter million diesel pusher miles, but them are the rules!

Bill, I agree- up to a point. No question, in the event of a catastrophic blowout TPMS will not help. But (actually big BUT) most tire failures are not catastrophic-- they are the result of slow/medium speed leaks caused by nails, screws, etc. As pressure gets lower (low enough to trigger a TPMS) temperature goes up, causing further tire degradation. Fast forward to total tire failure. Like most insurance, it will not cover all conditions, but WILL cover the majority.

http://www.jeep.com/model-compare/detailed-chart/?modelYearCode=CUJ201503 Summit 4X2 Base curb weight: 4750 pounds GVWR: 6500