wolfe10

Reality-- many many who work in state DMV's do NOT, repeat NOT know of their own state's requirements concerning motorhome licensing. Best to look at the requirements for yourself on your state's website vs banking an a clerk's assurance.

It truly depends on what finish you want. Some like a matte finish (I use a fine scotchbrite pad), some like a gloss finish. For gloss, start as course as needed to remove scratches and finish with 2000 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) and then rubbing and polishing compound.

**Assume you are safe working around 120 VAC** Yup, should be easy to determine. Unplug from shore power, generator off. Turn inverter on. With a voltmeter, check for 120 VAC between breakers in that sub-panel and the neutral and/or ground lugs in the sub panel.

It is highly likely that water in the brakes allowed the brake shoes to rust to the drum. About all you can do after driving in the rain is to apply the brakes fairly hard a couple of times before putting it in storage to help dry them out. Yes, it does happen.

Only issue is how close to the refrigerator you already have an inverter-powered outlet. And, is there enough "reserve" (i.e. you don't run a lot of other high amp items on that circuit) to be able to install an additional outlet from the existing inverter-powered outlet. Your inverter/charger already has a "pass through" feature so that when it sees shore power or generator, it automatically passes that source through to all outlets the inverter/charger supplies. If no inverter/charger powered outlets in the area, worse case is run a new feed from the inverter output/subpanel.

Again, in Texas, having just gone through this a week ago, as this is our first coach over 26,000 GVWR: For your non-commercial (i.e. personal use only) use, you need a: CDL class B, exempt. It requires a written and driving test. Only unusual part is parallel parking, but the spaces are generally long enough for an 18 wheeler, so shouldn't be a big issue. I practices using cardboard boxes in a parking lot for 15 minutes, and no problem with the test. Kind of funny, having the "learners permit" between written and driving test, even though I have over a quarter million diesel pusher miles, but them are the rules!

Bill, I agree- up to a point. No question, in the event of a catastrophic blowout TPMS will not help. But (actually big BUT) most tire failures are not catastrophic-- they are the result of slow/medium speed leaks caused by nails, screws, etc. As pressure gets lower (low enough to trigger a TPMS) temperature goes up, causing further tire degradation. Fast forward to total tire failure. Like most insurance, it will not cover all conditions, but WILL cover the majority.

http://www.jeep.com/model-compare/detailed-chart/?modelYearCode=CUJ201503 Summit 4X2 Base curb weight: 4750 pounds GVWR: 6500

Again, first step with the vibration is to check tire run-out. Egg-shaped tires WILL give vibrations. There are places that can balance the front tires on the coach. Since this is an "art"-- one that Bubba can not learn in 10 minutes, it is getting more rare to find a place to do it. But, they do exist. Favorite tire story. I checked run-out on tires on our coach because of a vibration-- guess it was 5 or 6 years ago. No sophisticated run-out gauge, just jacked it up and used a 4X4" and feeler gauges. Run-out was over .050" on one front tire and .060" on the other one. Yup, eggs. Rotating the tires on the rim did not solve it. So, I started calling around to tire stores. None would true the tires and few would balance them on the coach. Finally, a dealer recommended a trucking company shop-- they maintain a fleet of tanker trucks. He worked me in during a slack time. Started by truing the tire, then stops what he is doing and goes and gets a glass of water. Sets it on the front bumper (Our old Foretravel had a SS front bumper). He said hold the glass "until it quits jumping around". Sure enough, with a big smile on his face, he said after spin balancing it twice-- Let Go. Not a ripple in the glass of water. Smooooth drive from then on. That shop trues and spin balances on the rig 100% of the front tires on their fleet of trucks. Say they get a lot more miles from those truly round tires that are in balance AND the drivers really appreciate it.

ehoger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like you may have a combination of issues: Any HD suspension shop should be able to identify the source of the "clunking". Two alignment issues address wander: Caster and Toe-in. Please post the caster and toe readings from your last alignment. Vibration is most likely a tire issue. Start by having RUN-OUT checked. You can balance an "egg-shaped" tire until the cows come home, but it WILL vibrate. If run-out is over about .035", find an old fashion truck tire store to fix it-- rotate tire on wheel, true tire, etc. THEN, spin balance the front tires ON THE COACH. That way all rotating masses are in balance, not just tire and wheel. Remember, that brake drum and hub weigh over 100 pounds. Being out a couple of ounces is not uncommon.

Very true if we are discussing normally aspirated (non-turbo) engines. But, with the OP's Caterpillar C7, it is rated for full HP up to 10,000'. Basically the turbo "makes it own air" and compensates for the altitude.

msds99, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would give Xantrex a call to find out what is a direct replacement and/or what wiring changes would have to be made to accommodate a newer unit. Xantrex 800-670-0707

Perhaps a better option would be to wire both radio and surround sound to the house battery bank. And, if you do move them, be sure not to bypass an in-line fuse at the source of 12 VDC positive.

RJ, http://community.fmca.com/topic/2863-adding-profile-photo-on-forum/

John, Please take the opportunity to read through the document in the link in my post above. Will go a long way toward your understanding what SHOULD happen.

To get the FACTS (i.e. based on physics) on how grades affect any heavy vehicle, please go to this Caterpillar Corporation document on the Diesel RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) Website. The same physics applies irrespective of engine manufacturer. Please note that the HP requirements are HP AT THE REAR WHEELS which requires quite a lot more HP at the engine due to HP loss from things like alternator, cooling fan, loss in transmission and rear axle, etc. IMO, setting reasonable expectations is the first step in driving any heavy vehicle, whether it is an RV or an 18 wheeler. http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6594.0.html

Let us know where you are and perhaps someone will know a shop in your area. And, we really have no idea if it is needed or not. Only putting it on the alignment machine will tell. Cost can vary quite a lot. Again this is not a real common issue, but to fix it often requires breaking welds that locate the rear axle, alignment and then rewelding. For more information on what would be required, do a search on the model of your rear suspension (you chassis maker is a good source of this information).

In a word, YES. There are some very steep hills into Branson-- not long, but steep.

Suspect he means there is no EASY way to align the rear wheels/axle.

Carl, Yes, very easy. Unplug for a couple of hours (no shore power or generator-- or turn off breaker to converter, charger or inverter/charger). Turn on headlights or other chassis battery supplied load for half an hour. Then turn off load and, with a digital voltmeter, check voltage at HOUSE and also at CHASSIS battery banks. Plug in or turn on power to converter, charger or inverter/charger. Recheck voltage at each battery bank. With the headlights or other load on the chassis battery, before plugging in, voltage should be in the 12.4-12.6 VDC range. If the chassis battery is being charged, after you plug back in/turn on breaker, voltage should rise to 13.5-14 VDC IF, repeat IF the chassis battery is being charged. If it stays in that 12.4-12.6 VDC range, it is not being charged.

Just make sure your inverter/charger is properly programmed (battery type, size of battery bank (in amp-hrs) and importantly, temperature where the batteries live.

With shore power available, leave it plugged in IF you have a smart charger or smart inverter/charger that is properly programmed. Really makes no difference if 15 amp or 30 amp shore power. Once the batteries are charged (i.e. if float mode) it will take very little power. The other issue is whether the chassis battery is also charged, or if you need to add equipment (separate smart charger or smart relay that charges chassis battery when house battery is being charged).

Patbren, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Many coach makers do NOT make arrangements to charge the chassis batteries from shore power/generator. Two different solutions-- either of which is a good solution. Install a separate small smart charger hardwired to the chassis batteries. Here is an example: http://www.batteryminders.com/categories/applications/motorhome-rv.html Install a "smart relay" such as a Xantrex Echo Charger http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx that takes charge from the house bank (being charged by your converter or inverter/charger) to charge the chassis batteries.

Herman, I subscribe to the "school of shopping for fuel" of: Go to http://www.gasbuddy.com/ Go to the area (city or zip code). Click on map on one of the stations (you may have to "re-select" diesel) Scroll along your route to find a station and price right on your route. If question about the size of the station/ability to get in with your coach, highlight and copy the complete address and go to: https://www.google.com/maps That will give you a birds eye view of the station AND street view. This whole process takes about 3 minutes to cover 500 miles of your route. Note, I will not drive more than a few BLOCKS out of my way and will not fill at a tiny station. But, it is easy to save $20+ be spending 3 minutes "smart shopping".

Dean, Both 12+ VDC to the positive terminal of the furnace and a good ground are REQUIRED. If voltage is low/ground poor, often, the PC board will be "stupid". Same for corrosion and/or loose connections on the PC board. So, it is a good idea to both check with a digital voltmeter between the positive terminal on the PC board and PC board ground and then good chassis ground. If voltage when furnace turned on is 12+ VDC, you have ruled this out. Using a good electrical contact cleaner for the PC board connections would also be in order. After that, note how far into the "furnace run" cycle you get: Fan comes on Gas valve opens/igniter sparks Flame starts/heater starts Heater stays on