wolfe10

rbarkieyii, My main concern would be the transmission. Check with Allison on max GCVW. After that, you get into TWO issues: 1. The legal issue of what happens if you are in an accident. That is the one you suggested not to mention. 2. Physical issues involved with heavier toads. A good welder/home engineer may be your best bet.

Jim, Thanks for the update-- RF can mess up a lot of electronics.

OK, guys. Lets get back to "playing nice". Thanks.

Give Freightliner a call with your VIN.

Jazzi10, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume you are looking at the manual transmission models.

Sent you a Private Message.

You may be back to basic electrical diagnostics-- easiest with a wiring schematic. But, with or without a wiring schematic start at the battery and see where 12+ VDC goes to zero. The good news is that LOTS of circuits are involved, so it is likely that the issue is near the batteries.

Yes, fuel hose breakdown is not that unusual. And, since it is on the suction side of the lift pump, you will see little fuel leakage out-- just air IN. The primary fuel filter filled 3/4 with air is a really good indicator of a suction side leak. But, this sentence would make me want to verify the cause of the problem before undertaking line replacement: "I unhooked the supply line from the tank and put it into a 5 gallon diesel fuel container, still stalls."

At least last week, all in-park CG's were 100% full. So, be sure to call ahead before driving your RV all the way up there.

Benzz99, You might contact HWH. They did have an issue with weak retract springs. Solution was spring replacement.

Ann and Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We did this just last week. No problems on your route, basically drop down to I 40 and head west. We stayed in Williams at the http://www.thetrain.com/lodging/rv-park/?gclid=CIzJgeHlob8CFYhefgod4pMAvg Depending on time of year, you will likely need reservations. Williams or Flagstaff both make good locations for exploring the park with your tow vehicle.

John, Tell us what make, model and year you have-- might get more specific advice.

Here is what he posted as the fix, and we are just ASSUMING that the hose he replaced/had a leak in was between lift pump and HEUI pump. You are absolutely correct-- a leak before the lift pump would suck air in, a leak after the lift pump would be pressurized and leak fuel out: "It has been Fixed. Problem was with the high pressure fuel pump, and a pin hole in the incoming fuel line. Replaced pump, high and low speed sensors, some o Rings and a fuel line... ALL IS GOOD NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Actually, the Koni FSD's are NOT adjustable. They "self adjust" based on the frequency of motion. Said another way, they are both softer and firmer than the shocks they replace. Call them "smart".

Actually, Koni has TWO types of shocks. The FSD's are not adjustable-- they adjust dampening based on frequency of motion. They do still have adjustable shocks (the red-brown ones) and they have a reasonably wide range of dampening adjustment on extension.

If the main engine starts, you KNOW that at least one battery bank is OK. Use the BATTERY BOOST/BATTERY COMBINE switch and your generator should start if low battery is the issue.

Gerald, What inverter/charger do you have? Do you have the owners manual for it-- if not, likely available online. That will tell you how to program it (called setting the dip switches on some older models). If chassis batteries are not charged, you can either disconnect them (should be OK disconnected for just a month). Be sure to check battery water level before you leave.

Jeff, In the towing section, in the search box (upper right of page) type "Ford Edge". Many discussions: http://community.fmca.com/forum/13-towing/

Gerald, Sadly, there is no "here is how all of them are wired". First question: do you have an inverter or inverter/charger? Does your inverter/charger or converter charge both house and chassis batteries? If a converter instead of inverter/charger, is it "smart" (i.e. multi stage charging) or "dumb" (constant voltage)? Let us know and we can give you better advice for your rig.

We tow 4 wheels down, but there are others on the Forum who can address your tow dolly question.

irishsetter, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, a question-- does your tow dolly have brakes?

DanaRuns, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is not simple answer. There is a common issue that can cause lots of rattles-- if the tires are way over-inflated for the actual load. Worth comparing the actual tire pressure with that called for on the plaque near the drivers area (that will tell you the correct pressure if each axle is loaded to GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). If pressures are at or slightly below that listed, that is not your root cause. Other than that it is a matter of identifying each rattle source and determining if it is serious and/or can be cured. It is on a fairly standard Freightliner chassis. You could have a Freightliner dealer or someone familiar with the chassis look it over for you-- money very well spent.

Tom, Did you PM (Private Message) him? Just click on his name (left side of his post). That will bring up a page. On the upper right click on "Send me a message." Brett

Actually, the Chevy Astro IS a mini-van. Quite a lot smaller than a full size Chevy van.

JulieAndy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your English is just fine. Don't know if you can reach the Caterpillar hotline from PR, but if you can, call them with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. The intake manifold heater should come on below a certain temperature and continue to stay on/cycle until a warmer temperature is reached. Caterpillar should be able to tell you the maximum temperature at which it should come on on cold start and also the temperature at which it should not cycle on once started.