wolfe10

Do you have the manual primer pump? If so, when you pump it, is it easy to pump or difficult. Is the ground wire right below the computer (passenger's side of the engine) clean and tight? 12+ VDC to the engine? Have you tried downloading codes? Rather than start throwing parts at it, may pay to have a Cat dealer personnel swing by to check for codes-- takes under 15 minutes.

RJ, Todd gave you sage advice. There is a high likelihood that the most current software will NOT address MPG or performance, but will address emissions. There are those three variables. The software is a juggling act between MPG, HP and emissions. There are other things to do if you want to improve MPG: How many miles on it-- initial valve adjustment around 30k miles. What speed do you drive? Drive in regular or economy mode on the Allison? Brett

John, Yes, we have a Safe T Plus on our DP. Actually provides three functions: Helps return wheel to center after a corner-- let go of the steering wheel and the front wheels return to straight ahead, just like a car. Dampens side to side inputs Good insurance against violent steering change in event of a blow out. They are NOT a substitute for a good alignment, correct tire pressure and verifying that suspension components are not worn.

http://www.fmcmagazine.com/back-issues/2012/july/7074-installing-a-residential-refrigerator-in-a-motorhome The July 2012 issue of Family Motor Coaching included an article titled “Installing A Residential Refrigerator In A Motorhome” (page 50), which provides step-by-step instructions for replacing an existing RV refrigerator with a residential model. An inverter would make it possible to operate the refrigerator while traveling. The article appears in the Back Issues section at FMCmagazine.com. You will need to establish an FMCA member sign-in account to access the article.

pgleason, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you verified with an IR gun that indeed you are overheating vs just a gauge or sending unit issue? I would call Monaco and describe the problem and ask them how to diagnose overheating vs gauge/sender unit problem. Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226

A real caution on this-- adjusting the RIDE HEIGHT CONTROL VALVES-- actually the rods that determine ride height REQUIRES that you have safety stands in place. Even a slightly wrong move and suddenly drop the coach onto its stops. And your chassis maker (Monaco in your case) can give you the ride height specs. Getting this right is critical. Said another way, getting it wrong or "estimating" ride height can cause severe damage to suspension and in the rear the drive shaft, U joints and transmission.

Clossy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The Keys is a popular destination and has been the subject of discussion here on the Forum. Here is an earlier thread on the Keys: http://community.fmca.com/topic/346-the-florida-keys/?hl=keys Going to either the destinations or CG Forums and typing Keys into the search box at the upper right will get you several more. Please feel free to ask additional questions.

Houston667 Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Give them a call tomorrow with the VIN-- they can look it up for you: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT

15 or 20 amps outlet should work just fine. Have you verified that the outlet has power? Do other reasonably small 120 VAC loads (microwave light up, outlets work)? Do circuits powered by the inverter when not on shore power or generator work as they should? What is voltage (digital voltmeter into any house-type outlet in the coach. If batteries are deeply discharge, the inverter/charger may be drawing (actually trying to draw) too many amps to charge the batteries. It can easily be reprogrammed (usually from the remote) to "power share". Factory setting is 30 amps. Setting it to 5 means it will not tax a 15 amp outlet. Another test is to disconnect from shore power and turn on the generator. If the inverter/charger works as it should, you know from your ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch onward everything is OK. Brett

If you are talking about the house batteries, check the breaker on the 120 VAC panel for the inverter/charger (assuming that is what you have). Please do tell us what charger or inverter/charger you have. And, if it has a remote control panel, what does it show for voltage and amps?

Afgandon, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. At least on our 1997 Safari, the chassis batteries are NOT charged except by the alternator when the engine is running. Many have added a separate small charger-- here is what I use, as it also has a desulfate function: http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-1500-12volt-1-5-amp-maintenance-charger-desulfator/ Another option is one of the "smart relays" like the Xantrex Echo charger that charges the chassis battery from the house battery when shore power powers your inverter charger.

It is a Yahoo Group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/conversations/messages If that still does not pull it up, Google: "Yahoo Safari Friends". Suspect you will need to join just like any of the other Yahoo groups-- it is free and a good resource for Safari owners.

Ed, No, neither wax nor petroleum-based products should be used on vinyl stripes. 303 Aerospace is safe to use on them-- did that for more than a decade on our coach with vinyl stripes.

While I agree that adding R134A is not rocket science, one should have a gauge set (low side and high side) and the knowhow to use them. Systems can suffer from overcharging as much as undercharging. Said another way, adding freon is not always the answer to poor dash A/C performance. Things like condenser fans, their relays and fuses are at least as common a cause of poor performance. If you are not familiar with working with automotive A/C systems and their pressures (over 250 PSI at higher ambient temperatures), leave it to a professional.

F.N. Here are details (and a clickable to pricing) of the FMCA Michelin Fleet Program: http://www.fmca.com/join-family-motor-coach-association/member-benefits/fmca-connections/3455

Suspect you are talking about bypassing the battery disconnect SOLENOID (the solenoid is controlled by the switch). No problem (as long as you know about amp draws on your battery) and easily done: Locate the disconnect solenoid. It will have two large lugs and either one or two small terminals. Mark all the wires on one of the large lugs and then move them to (add them to) the wires already on the other large lug. This is now the same electrically as the solenoid being ON all the time.

Walt, Your post puzzled me, so I just called Monaco Technical (877-466-6226). Spoke with Jason. I confirmed that the primary filter/water separator with 10-30 micron element IS first-- and he said was generally a Racor brand. With the secondary/fine filter being after the lift pump. He did say that some of these engine manufacturer supplied secondary filters could also have drains.

F.N.DeWester, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With a 2005 coach, with a chassis likely built in 2004, there is no question, your tires are past their safe, useful life. To verify the tire age, on one sidewall of each tire (may be facing outward and easy to read, or facing inward) is the complete DOT number. The last 4 digits-- usually in a slightly different molded area, as that part of the number is changed every week indicate the WEEK and YEAR the tire was made.

No, here is the filter order: Fuel tank Primary filter/water separator (10-30 micron filter element) Lift pump/fuel pump Secondary filter (2-5 micron filter element) Injector pump/engine And, when changing filters, both should be changed. Which one will be clogged depends on the particle size of the contaminants. With algae, it can be both as the can clump into slimy black mess that clogs the primary as well as individual bodies that clog the secondary. You have said that the fuel was "treated properly". What algaecide did you use-- and in maintenance or kill dose?

You are describing "Fuel Polishing". It is common procedure on pleasure boats-- they also have algae from their diesel fuel being stored. Check with a local marina. Do you have one or two fuel filters? Are both being replaced if you have two? What are you finding in the filters when you change them? Are you using a Biocide such as BioborJF-- available at any marine store?

Yes, track bars (aka panhard rods) front and rear are a very worthwhile suspension upgrade on the W chassis.

2677way, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have the Workhorse P or W chassis-- very different suspensions?

This video gives a lot of information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LB5ZhvhXas

Kelly, You need to fully charge them and then load test them. What is your voltage at the battery (digital voltmeter) when on shore power or generator?

Kelly, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by verifying that your battery voltage is 12.0+ VDC. Below that, it is unlikely that the solenoid that the switch controls will work. If battery voltage is good, locate the solenoid that the switch controls and verify that it is working-- if you need "how too's" let us know.