wolfe10

Frank, If the RPM sounds high, voltage is high or HZ is high, be sure the two breakers on the generator are OFF so you don't harm anything else on your coach. And, absolutely make sure the linkage is totally free. Once removed a mouse nest from a guy's generator-- was holding the throttle open and over-speeding the generator.

Your inverter/charger is not an issue-- it has algorithms for properly charging either wet cell or AGM. Merely a matter of programming it. Advantages of AGM are: Faster charging (only important if you dry camp and have generator run time dedicated to recharging). This would be more important for you with a residential refrigerator if you dry camp. When on shore power, it really doesn't matter if they take an additional hour to charge. The faster charge rate is due to lower internal resistance. This allows the faster recharge without generating unwanted/harmful heat. No maintenance and no out-gassing unless severely overcharged. I suspect that as with wet cell batteries there are some differences in quality. I am quite familiar with Lifeline Batteries. Were introduced to them on our sail boat decades ago. They ARE high quality and stood up well for many years on the severe duty found on our long cruises. I have no first hand information on the AGM's Sams Club sells.

Do you have a "before and after" print-out so you can see exactly what was changed? If so, post it-- that will give us a lot better idea of what work was done.

Gordon, Did they have to bend the axle (i.e. change camber on solid front axle)? Did they have to change/add caster shims (requires separating axle from chassis mount to install/remove shim)? If not, yes that does sound expensive for a check and likely toe adjustment.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The best information on your Trek can probably be found on the Trek Track Website: http://www.nwtfc.com/forum/default.asp Monaco Corp would be another potential source of information: Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way. Coburg, OR 97408. 877-466-6226

This issue affects all Ford modular engines, including the V10.

Roger, Don't know if this link will work, but go to it and download the PDF. It shows both vertical and horizontal mountings: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.wattswater.com%2F1915323.pdf&ei=fhBXU7fyIMTc8AHGq4DIDg&usg=AFQjCNGI07XBYemEzUM49jJIVjjQMxWdqA&bvm=bv.65177938,d.b2U

Yes, most are located in the basement. Most are located between the incoming shore power and the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). That protects everything "downstream" of the surge protector (including ATS). A few locate it between ATS and coach 120 VAC breaker box. That leaves the ATS unprotected, but also protects against over/under voltage and surges from the generator. And be aware that NO surge protector protects against a lightening strike or even close lightening strike. Disconnecting from shore power is best protection against lightening.

The bladder-type accumulator tanks can be installed vertically or horizontally. Should be in their instruction sheet, both with the product and on-line.

Lloyd, No first hand experience with this company, but a couple of very knowledgeable RV suspension guys recommend this company in Seattle for blue-printing the Sheppard box to remove play. One even bought a brand new Sheppard box and had them blue-print it for stock: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

Roger, That one will work just fine-- a little large in terms of storage space it will take, but will certainly do the job.

I think Rich is talking about a very different pressure system found on some old coaches where they used an air compressor to pressurize the potable water system. With your water pump- based system there are two things you can do-- with different results: Add an accumulator with bladder. Set PSI at 2 PSI less than cut-in pressure for the pump. For many, that means setting it at 23 PSI with city water off, pump off and pressure bled off by opening a faucet. This will do little to change the noise level, but help a lot in smoothing out water pressure at the faucets. The accumulator is generally plumbed into the system with a "T" after the outlet of the pump. To quiet the pump, one needs to have the pump attached to the plumbing with a length of flexible hose, NOT hard pipe. This is both on the inlet and outlet. If plumbed with rigid pipe, the pump noise is transmitted through the pipes. This can normally be done for around $10 worth of hose, clamp and barb fittings. In fact some pump manufacturers suggest this flexible hose installation in their installation instructions. As an alternative, sometimes using foam rubber around the hard lines will help absorb some of the vibration-- it will not be as successful as isolating the pump with flexible hose, however.

And, on down grades, use the transmission (down shift) to control speed. Use brake pedal ONLY to slow down enough to allow shifting to a lower gear. Correct speed on a descent is that speed/gear that holds your speed in EQUILIBRIUM-- you are neither speeding up nor slowing down. physics dictates your equilibrium speed is faster than a loaded 18 wheeler, slower than an empty one.

coijack4646, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. #1 killer of HEUI pumps is low fuel pressure. This occurred most frequently on those chassis with a single fuel filter (2 micron element) which restricted fuel flow a LOT quicker than the two filter systems with a 10 or 30 micron element followed by a 2 micron element. An air leak on the suction side of the lift pump will have the same effect with lower PSI to the HEUI pump. But, three failures is really difficult to understand. Be sure they check fuel pressure from the lift pump -- heck even a pinched fuel hose could create a hard time for the pump.

There is an easy diagnostic for a bad fuel line. Buy 5' of fuel line and feed the generator from a gas can. If that known good supply makes it run and it will not run from the main tank (with proper fuel level in the main tank) replace the line. There are also clear plastic fuel filters that you can temporarily put in-line at the generator. If bubbles are present, replace the line. And, yes in most cases, the gas tank will need to be lowered from the chassis to access the top to replace the fuel line. But, do the diagnostics first to verify that this is the problem. Certainly worth a couple of feet of fuel line!

By law, the GVWR plaque will have that information.

If you mean do you have to be an FMCA member to get the FMCA fleet pricing-- YES. But, even if there were no other benefits (and there are quite a lot) your savings will still be substantial.

Most have reported significant savings. But the prices for the more popular tires are on-line. Compare them yourself. The price includes tire and FET. It does not include local tax, mounting and balancing. If the old tires are not worn or badly cracked, some dealers will offer trade in allowances on them. http://www.fmca.com/join-family-motor-coach-association/member-benefits/fmca-connections/3455 In the middle of the page is a click to see prices.

I just use a round punch of the correct diameter to barely fit into the hose. Any round solid piece of metal works well. I don't like to pinch off lines, particularly older lines-- too easy to crack them.

I agree with Ray. Nothing wrong with with hydraulic over hydraulic 4 wheel disk brakes. Like any other brake system, they are not maintenance free. With the hydraulic over hydraulic, brake fluid should be changed every couple of years (just like on any hydraulic system with DOT III brake fluid) and the caliper slides cleaned and greased with caliper slide grease every couple of years. BTW, we have had both air and hydraulic brakes and either one works very well.

Frank, Are you asking about the potable water tank drain, gray or black?

Winn sold a rather complex primary filter "system" that was prone to leaking from the O rings around a clear plastic housing. Parker Racor has a replacement/suppression that does away with this one.

If you are talking about the GVWR plaque that gives GVWR, GAWR, wheel and tire size and tire pressure at GAWR's, it is normally in the area of the driver's seat. Often on the wall.

Jim, If there is a leak on the suction side (fuel tank to primary filter to lift pump) it will not clear itself. Said another way, it will continue to suck air.

Frank, You will want one of the newer "smart chargers"-- that have three stages: bulk, absorption and float.