wolfe10

WHERE it was parked for three years also makes a difference. If in a humid climate, it is very different than if this was in the desert SW. That is why they store airplanes around the Tucson area, not Florida.

Perhaps the OP can clarify exactly what coach/chassis/engine they have. That will certainly allow for better feedback.

Generally in the front compartment with the fuses. Because the many things that only work with the key on would well overload what could reasonably be run through the ignition switch, the ignition switch is just used to close the IGNITION SOLENOID with all items normally powered with the ignition on supplied from it. Another indicator of a failure here would be that the Allison shift pad would be dark (it is powered by the ignition solenoid.

FLNavyVet, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Did everything that normally works with the ignition on quit at the same time-- things like the dash HVAC fan? If so, suspect the ignition solenoid or ignition switch or wiring between them. The solenoids are a fairly high failure rate item.

Wonder if you have a Navistar Maxxforce diesel in a small Class A. And, a good place to start is to read the owners manual that came with your chassis and engine. If you don't have records, assume that nothing has been done-- that is certainly the safest route. If you can contact the previous owner, you may be able to get maintenance records.

Carol, Can't imagine anyone telling you it is cheaper to drive two vehicles when you already own a tow dolly. You will loose a little MPG in the motorhome towing, but nothing like that of driving two separate vehicles. If your coach is a diesel, the effect would be even less than if it gasoline. The exception might be in mountains where driving separate would lessen the HP load on the coach climbing and the braking load descending.

Carol, Assuming your Camry is and automatic, a tow dolly would be needed. Also a light package for the car. As to whether this is the way to go depends on several factors: How far from home do you intend to drive? How many miles a year? Are you considering another vehicle that may be towable 4 wheels down?

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Surprised you are not wanting to tie the new camera in to your Audit system monitor. Though you may need an adapter at the camera end, you can likely use the existing wiring. Depending on which Audit system you have, the camera may need to have reverse image capability so that you can properly view both back up camera and tank levels. If that doesn't work, go to the front left of the coach over the driver's seat and open the cabinet. You will see a "D" shaped beam open at the end at the corner of the roof and side-wall (at least on non-slide models). You should be able to fish a wire all the way to the rear of the coach through that beam.

Correct-- should be no issues as they are very comparable sizes. To my knowledge Michelin is the only one who makes the 235/80R22.5. Everyone else sells 245/75R22.5.

While you are outside the coach, have someone deploy the jacks. You will hear the jack motor.

Certainly, it is a plus if the coach maker is still in business-- if just for technical support. As an example, I contacted Monaco (who bought Safari) technical support last week to find out how to disable the "inverter on when back up camera on" feature (I added a dash monitor for the backup camera instead of using the large overhead TV). Got an answer back and took care of it on Friday. But, like many other things when choosing a coach, I view this as a plus, not a "have to have".

Scott, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Irrespective of heat source (120 VAC or propane) the PC board works on 12 VDC. So, start by confirming that you have 12 VDC at the refrigerator (outside access door).

It will be very difficult to find a DP under 35'. The overhangs dictated by steering components in front and length of drive shaft, transmission, engine, CAC and radiator (assuming rear radiator) mean every inch shorter comes out of wheelbase. Poor WB/ OL (wheelbase/overall length) coaches do not drive as well as the exact same "mechanicals" on a coach with better ratio. BTW, we have had both a 36' and currently have a 35' DP and are happy with their size-- a good compromise for us between maneuverability and room. Below 35', I would be looking at a gas coach. There were significant improvements in gas chassis with the Workhorse W (no longer in production) and the Ford F53 beginning in 2005. No question, you can find nice coaches in your price range. You have to decide whether newer, lower end gas, slightly older higher end gas or older DP in that same price range better fit your needs. A good place to start comparing is the largest RV consignment lot in the U.S. Good photos of the coaches, floorplans, etc: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used_rvs_for_sale.htm The next step is to get out there and look at a variety of coaches to see what best fits your needs/desires and start narrowing down the search.

Tony, Welcome to the FMCA Forum (and the Diesel RV Club Chapter as well). Were it mine, I would disable the fuel supply (your DD tech can tell you how) and crank the engine for 5-6 10 second cycles with plenty of cool down time for the starter between. That will help get oil up in the engine before starting. And with a DD two stroke make sure you are using the correct single viscosity diesel oil. Delo 100 40 weight has been a popular choice for many decades. Then, I would take it for a drive-- long enough to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature (25 highway miles comes to mind) and than change the oil. Make sure to check tires, etc before moving if it has sat for that long.

Glenn, In a word, NO. The heavier wheel position on each axle determines the correct minimum pressure FOR ALL TIRES ON THAT AXLE. From the Michelin RV Tire Guide, page 6: "For control of the RV, it is critical that the tire pressures be the same across an axle."

jimbo@2006, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Contact your chassis maker with your VIN. They can walk you through it. If Freightliner: 800 385-4357 . Assume you have checked the fuel filter(s), as this is where a clogged fuel filter will first exhibit symptoms. Also, check the air filter minder reading to make sure you don't have an intake restriction.

Actually, unless you are in an extremely cold area #2 diesel is what all the pumps have. Further, that #2 diesel is low sulfur/ULSD. The only time you will not use #2 diesel is in extreme cold conditions, where #2 diesel can GEL. Then they blend #2 with #1 with a lower cloud point.

Mike, I will restate that per MY philosophy: You are responsible for knowing what Preventive Maintenance needs to be done (and hopefully why). Whether you do it or hire it out or some combination there-of is not important. If you don't keep up with it, you will likely spend a LOT more to keep it going. Example: don't change coolant until it turns acidic-- buy a new radiator, water pump, etc. Don't change belts-- stuck on the side of the road with broken belts. Basically, it comes down to PM or side of the road. Yes, RV's are complicated machines. I would much rather do the work (or pay for the work) at MY convenience, not on the side of the road. There are some parts that you should carry with you. Don't own a screwdriver-- no problem. You can find someone who can work on your rig anywhere in North America. But, you may not be able to find the part you need on a weekend, late at night, etc. Might you want to learn how to do the couple of things that account for 75% of the "I am broken down on the side of the road"? Your call. This is EXACTLY what I teach in the seminars I give for the Diesel RV Club. Brett

No idea, but replacing an oil filter with the proper one would sure be an inexpensive answer-- worth doing before spending big bucks diagnosing the problem.

I pulled out my Workhorse manual. Peak torque of 455 lb-ft is at 3200 RPM with 400 lb-ft from 1600 RPM. Peak HP of 340 is at 4,200 RPM. Can see no reason to run above peak HP RPM, though the book states: "RPM Limiting 5000 RPM" I suspect that it will be electronically controlled and fuel will be cut off/transmission will upshift to protect the engine above that figure.

Clean the CAC from the outside (shoot water with/without detergent compatible with your radiator material-- if aluminum, use Simple Green EXTREME). Clean the radiator from the inside (ya, it is a dirty messy job to shoot from the inside outward-- be sure to wear clothes you really don't like). Will this get everything between them-- most if it. The only other option is to cut a window into the center between the CAC and radiator, clean and then make and install a "door". It has to be airtight so all air entering the CAC goes through the radiator as well.

Actually, the FMCA Towing Guide covers TWO criteria: 1. Is the vehicle towable 4 wheels down from a mechanical perspective. 2. Has the manufacturer deemed it towable (from a liability standpoint). Most manual transmission VW's meet #1, but VW had made a decision to not deem them towable. They are not the only company to do this-- Mazda comes to mind. Even when they shared models with Ford and the Ford was towable, Mazda Corp said NO.

Fred, Is the leaking filter the primary filter (i.e. before lift pump) or secondary (after lift pump) assuming you have two filters. If before, a loose drain plug will leak when engine is off and SUCK AIR WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING/TRYING TO RUN.

Correct-- Workhorse is no longer making RV chassis. I suspect there were some in coach makers stock well after Workhorse ceased production. But, I would suggest that the Workhorse W with 8.1 GM gas engine and Allison transmission is a good gas chassis. Make sure the brake recall has been performed, but that is covered for free.

Yes, if you have the deep sump (ribbed aluminum instead of stamped steel pan), the correct quantity is 29 quarts, so 30 should be OK. Were all the oils used for diesels-- sure sounds like Bubba on the loose. Every auto parts house, Walmart, etc carries Rotella T 15-40 and most carry Delo 400 15-40, either of which are good choices. But, if any of the oils was not rated for diesels, I would change it again when you get home.