wolfe10

If you have a PM (private message), the envelope icon at the top right of the page will have a number in it. Click on the icon. Brett

Actually, many of us DO sanitize our potable water tank and fresh water plumbing with bleach.

Weather in central Texas that time of year varies over a very wide range. You can get (very rare) temperatures below freezing and temperatures in the 80's. Depends on whether as cold front has moved through. Went to school in Austin, just a few miles from the area you are considering. For warmer temperatures, move south-- perhaps the Rio Grande Valley. Basic mantra-- if an orange tree is happy I am happy. And there are a lot of orange trees in the Texas Rio Grande Valley. Brett

While mineral oil has long been used as a "home remedy" for bubbling of battery acid, I am not aware of a single battery manufacturer who recommends it. So, before using, you might check with the manufacturer of your batteries.

Also, make sure your Inverter/charger is properly programmed for the batteries you have! Something as simple as setting it to winter/cold ambient temperatures can overcharge the batteries in hot weather.

Yes, as Rich said, you can (and should) NOT contemplate adjusting air bag pressure. Ride height valves control suspension height and therefore PSI. Set too low, and your coach can easily bottom out on bumps. I find it hard to believe anyone would suggest changing this-- could be a VERY expensive experiment, as even a small deviation from correct ride height can adversely affect ride and handling and in the rear (very short drive shaft) cause extreme wear to U-joints and transmission. SO, with harsh ride first thing to do is set RIDE HEIGHT. Check with Gillig for the proper specs. Brett

Luyben, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us the model number of your refrigerator. Yes, your alternator should recharge both chassis and house battery. I would start by checking voltage at the batteries-- with engine off and then with engine on. If the house battery is not being charged first suspect is the battery combiner. Check with RT for its location. Brett

Excellent. Sure an inexpensive "fix". Brett

Gerald, Here is an excellent discussion on tire covers: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4815-best-brand-tire-covers/?hl=%2Btire+%2Bcover#entry29835

Actually with a Freightliner chassis, you have SANDWICHED cooling system. The CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is in front of the radiator and is where the vast majority of the dirt and debris is deposited. Yes, you can clean it yourself. Access the top of the motor/fan shroud area-- from bedroom or closet. Use a garden hose/nozzle. If just dirt, that is all you will need. If there is any oil or grease holding the dirt, you will need a cleaner. Dawn, Simple Green Extreme (Aluminum friendly), etc will work. Be sure to wear old clothes, it is a pain to clean around the fan blades, but the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter where it is hard to remove-- particularly the lower perimeter. Flush until the effluent is clear. This needs to be done once a year. Brett

PPL has been in business a long time and is one of the largest consignment lots in the country (and largest parts department). Good reputation. Be aware that these are mostly consignment coaches, so they have not been PDI's by PPL or anyone. Owner maintenance varies from great to terrible. It is your responsibility to check coaches out completely-- that means chassis as well as house systems. Same as at any consignment lot. Their website gives you an excellent overview of coaches. Don't expect the photos to show the hickies-- they tank photos from the same place on each coach. Brett

Sorry, no picture visible. And, it will be the Sunday before I have access to the fan on our Safari coach.

And, on some models, it would be as simple is incorrect (low) oil level. Without more information, we are all speculating.

Shell925. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As Rich asked, please post specific information on year and model number.

raymondmom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Giving us a little more information on what you are looking at may help-- someone may know of tech familiar with, say a Ford chassis or Chevy chassis but not familiar with a diesel pusher.

Kay, That is INCORRECT. Air is sucked in from the front of the shroud and the fan forces air out the back-- through the CAC and then through the radiator. At highway speeds, it would be virtually impossible to use the back, which is in a high vacuum condition, as an intake source. sdlmrk, Take a picture of the fan blade in the shroud and post it. Someone else with a Safari/Magnum chassis (suspect that is what you have-- let us know) can look at it and compare with how theirs is orientated.

brucenrayne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can you give us a breakdown of exactly what the $4000 quote was for.

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since this occurred starting when the fan was replaced, first thing is to verify that the fan is the correct one AND that it is installed with the blades facing the proper way. Can overheating affect the water pump impeller/shaft-- yes. But several other things I would do before replacing the water pump. Assume that when you installed the thermostats that you either bled the air from the thermostat housing or as is common on many chassis that there is a bleed line from housing to overflow reservoir. An air pocket can cause the thermostats to not open properly. Also, you did not mention cleaning the CAC (charge air cooler) and radiator every year. Most of the dirt and debris will be on the front of the CAC. You can check with (best after dark) with a strong flashlight from the bedroom. Look inside the fan shroud/between fan blades. Verify that the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter is as clean as the center (the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter. Also, as a PM item, make sure the crankcase breather hose (open 1" ID hose on passenger's side middle of the engine has been extended to behind the fan shroud. If not, oil vapor and water vapor from the engine can be sucked up into the cooling package and materially speed its clogging. Brett

Don't assume that your current wiring won't work with a newer camera and monitor. Might need adapters at both ends, but that is almost a non-issue. When discussing cameras and/or monitors KNOW what wiring you have from front to back and ask if the new components are compatible with your existing wiring.

You might start by just putting your hand over the defrost vent the next time this happens. The default position IS defrost. So if that is where it comes out, the next step is to check for a loose or broken vacuum line. Brett

PriklyPete, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Formation of frost is generally a sign that air flow through the evaporator is restricted. So, in order: Check air filter(s). Clean or replace as needed. Fan speed on high. If a thermostat, consider a warmer setting along with higher fan speed. If this doesn't solve it, particularly if this is an older unit or has been operated a lot in humid climates, he will need to clean the EVAPORATOR. The air filters on RV A/C's are not that effective. The combination of dirt in the air and wet evaporator coils deposits a lot of dirt. This is only serviceable from the roof. Use a commercially available evaporator cleaner from any box store. Be sure to put a towel or otherwise block off the duct into the coach when doing this. You would be AMAZED at how much dirt can accumulate on the fins, restricting air flow. It is also the cause of that "wet dog" smell when first turning on an A/C. You are literally smelling the mold that grows on the warm, moist dirt. Brett

bjeff, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by verifying that you have 12+ VDC at the back (outside access door) of the refrigerator. The PC board runs on 12 VDC. If that is OK, I would disconnect connections to the PC board, clean and reconnect. Brett

Chris, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Give Allison a call on Monday-- will sure help if you have the model and serial number handy: Allison help line 800 252 5283

Here is another discussion on super singles here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/5503-replace-duals-with-super-single-tires/?hl=super

Jdesiderato, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. RESISTANCE. That is the only thing that can cause heat in an electrical circuit. Polish up the male prongs-- 2000 grit sandpaper, etc. If that doesn't do it, use De-oxit or other electrical cleaner to try to remove oxidation, or pitting from the female connection. If still hot, replace it. BTW, if this only occurs while on generator, but not on shore power, suspect the generator-side connection. Brett